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Thor technologies/ surge protector and filters


Ccollins
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Looking for some experienced views

 

I have a headphone dac and amp set up worth about $4-5K

 

I have recently been considering getting a suitable surge protector just for the sake of it/just in case.

 

I do find that I don't listen to this set up when the washing machine is on as that results, i believe, in spikes coming through (or something like that) and a very loud white noise comes through until i stop and start my gear ahead

 

I am not feeling i need a power filter but IF it is likely to have no detrimental effect and probably be of benefit then thats a bonus

 

I only want something that's not too expensive say around up to $200 or so

 

So.....I came across thor technologies and I found these two:

 

B8F and A12BF

https://www.thortechnologies.com.au/product/b8f-smart-filter-8/?v=6cc98ba2045f

https://www.thortechnologies.com.au/product/smartboard-8/?v=6cc98ba2045f

 

I can't find many reviews at all.

 

The stated safety specs read very good from what I can tell in my recently aqcuired minimal knowledge

 

any views on these and my ideas in general?

 

I will be looking to plug in my woo wa2 amo, metrum hex dac, imac and 2 jbl audio monitors

 

all help is much appreciated

peter t

Edited by Ccollins
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Is it likely that 10 amp 2400w is not enough, especially if running a big power amp ?

Then plug in your processor, an oppo, media player and a big tv?

Its been suggested by others that a 15 amp dedicated line for the amp alone is about right in Australia so do these boards come in 15 or 20 amp variants with higher watts?

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23 minutes ago, paulrp said:

Is it likely that 10 amp 2400w is not enough, especially if running a big power amp ?

What? NOTHING bigger than 10 Amps may be plugged into a standard Australian power point. End of story. 

 

23 minutes ago, paulrp said:

Then plug in your processor, an oppo, media player and a big tv?

All of which will still be well below 2,400 Watts.

 

23 minutes ago, paulrp said:

Its been suggested by others that a 15 amp dedicated line for the amp alone is about right in Australia so do these boards come in 15 or 20 amp variants with higher watts?

Unlikely and is not necessary anyway. FWIW: I use a 15 Amp dedicated power point, connected with 6mm mains cable for my system. No filters, of course, as such things are not necessary. 

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Get the Thor A12bf currently using it in one of my set ups. Did find short videos comparing it to the basic isotek boards when I was looking. Thor did a better job. 

Also have the Thor PS10 in my reference setup have been using it for many years with positive results. 

Grab the A12bf, it’s in your budget, will add a peace of mind in terms of protection and perhaps to your ears will bring additional benefits 

Reviews

 

 

Neo

Edited by Neo
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My experiences with my Thor are...

 

We live in an area where the mains voltage used to fluctuate frequently between 213v and 233v.  I bought a Thor so everything could see 240v.  About 2 years later 'they' replaced the big grey transformer thingos on the poles in the road and we then got a steady 253v.  So the Thor still does its job of providing 240v.  Over the last 5 years or so the 253 has slowly reduced to 247; still quite high but not as bad as it once was.  I figure that a constant 240 has to be better than very high or very low.

 

When installing the new stuff in the road 'they' installed one wire too close to others and on a hot day it sagged and touched.  Explosion, fire, fallen cable, grass fire ... The Thor did its job and switched off.  Whether it saved anything I don't know but was somewhat reassuring.

 

On another occasion 'they' didn't connect the 3-phase supply correctly.  [I don't know anything about electricity so I can't comment on the technicalities].  However the Thor did it's thing again.

 

I am happy that the Thor may have been useful in these situations.

 

We have been 'hit' by nearby lightning 3 times, but each time the surge came through the telephone line (and took out modem/router, ethernet switches and a couple of attached devices) rather than the TV aerial or power, so I don't know how it would handle that.  Maybe OK for a little/distant crunch.

 

I only plug low power source items into it.  Power amps are plugged directly into the wall.  I figure that a power amp has a big enough and tough enough power supply to look after itself.

Edited by aechmea
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Think I will get my electrican to run a 6mm line to my gear and check to see what sort of power conditioning he thinks may be applicable.

As for 2400 watts capacity of the fore mentioned safety board;
The subs in my def tec 7001sc s are 1500w


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6 minutes ago, paulrp said:


Think I will get my electrican to run a 6mm line to my gear and check to see what sort of power conditioning he thinks may be applicable.

As for 2400 watts capacity of the fore mentioned safety board;
The subs in my def tec 7001sc s are 1500w

 

I understand that the amplifiers may be rated for 1,500 Watts. I am more interested in the power supply rating. Few SMPSs do much more than 500 ~ 600 Watts continuously. They will do far more under transient conditions, but that doesn't impact on your mains power demands. Dig through the spec sheets and see if you can find the CONTINUOUS power ratings.

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9 minutes ago, paulrp said:


Think I will get my electrican to run a 6mm line to my gear and check to see what sort of power conditioning he thinks may be applicable.
 

 

A sparkie is qualified to run a dedicated line to your hifi gear.  But I don't think he will have the background or experience to comment on the applicability of a power conditioner ... unless he is into hifi himself.

 

An electrical engineer - or an experienced tech like ZB - would be the person I would ask.

 

Andy

 

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40 minutes ago, aechmea said:

My experiences with my Thor are...

 

We live in an area where the mains voltage used to fluctuate frequently between 213v and 233v.  I bought a Thor so everything could see 240v.  About 2 years later 'they' replaced the big grey transformer thingos on the poles in the road and we then got a steady 253v.  So the Thor still does its job of providing 240v.  Over the last 5 years or so the 253 has slowly reduced to 247; still quite high but not as bad as it once was.  I figure that a constant 240 has to be better than very high or very low.

 

When installing the new stuff in the road 'they' installed one wire too close to others and on a hot day it sagged and touched.  Explosion, fire, fallen cable, grass fire ... The Thor did its job and switched off.  Whether it saved anything I don't know but was somewhat reassuring.

 

On another occasion 'they' didn't connect the 3-phase supply correctly.  [I don't know anything about electricity so I can't comment on the technicalities].  However the Thor did it's thing again.

 

I am happy that the Thor may have been useful in these situations.

 

We have been 'hit' by nearby lightning 3 times, but each time the surge came through the telephone line (and took out modem/router, ethernet switches and a couple of attached devices) rather than the TV aerial or power, so I don't know how it would handle that.  Maybe OK for a little/distant crunch.

 

I only plug low power source items into it.  Power amps are plugged directly into the wall.  I figure that a power amp has a big enough and tough enough power supply to look after itself.

 

1 hour ago, Neo said:

Get the Thor A12bf currently using it in one of my set ups. Did find short videos comparing it to the basic isotek boards when I was looking. Thor did a better job. 

Also have the Thor PS10 in my reference setup have been using it for many years with positive results. 

Grab the A12bf, it’s in your budget, will add a peace of mind in terms of protection and perhaps to your ears will bring additional benefits 

Reviews

 

 

Neo

Thanks

 

 over the weekend i ordered the b8f as opposed to the a12 bf. $150 v $240

 

i figured I didn’t need the third (unfiltered) bank and as I’m unaware of any filtering needs i may have, and looking at this for power surge protection, that the b8f would still cover my needs

 

out of curiosity, i find there can be a bit of a power surge that occurs when the washing machine is in operation in our unit, that is when it changes cycle, would the thor just help curb that when it comes to that affecting my gear if i am using it or would it shut down? Ive never used one so wondering how it works in such instances of that magnitude. 

 

(These surges cause loud (white?) noise to come out of my headphone system at times when that occurs when i’m listening to music whilst doing the washing

 

thanks

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Noise is always best dealt with at the source.  If you have identified your washing machine as the cause, then apply the filtering to it.     In the old days, when the only thing electrical in a washing machine was just a motor, you'd simply put suppression capacitors across the motor/switch.  Modern machines however, have many solenoids, motors and pumps, and a computer.    If we hope that the noise is being transmitted via the mains only, then a filter on the power coming into the washing machine may prevent all the noise going back up the wiring to your house and stereo.       Some noise could also be being radiated, but given metal construction of the machine, and likely distance from your stereo, this is less likely.

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1 hour ago, paulrp said:

this is a lead from an electrical engineer mate of mine in Sydney, he says that it is high capacity and that you can plug your amps directly into it ...

PS Audio Dectet Power Centre - Clean, protected, isolated power NEW https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com.au%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F302231924562

For 745 Bucks, I trust you:

 

1) Have a specific problem you wish to solve.

2) Can obtain an assurance that this device will solve the problem, so you may receive a refund.

 

So, what problem are you attempting to solve again?

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1 hour ago, Ccollins said:

 

out of curiosity, i find there can be a bit of a power surge that occurs when the washing machine is in operation in our unit, that is when it changes cycle, would the thor just help curb that when it comes to that affecting my gear if i am using it or would it shut down? Ive never used one so wondering how it works in such instances of that magnitude. 

It will do nothing. As others have stated and I have stated (seemingly weekly), the fault MUST be dealt with at the source. 

 

1 hour ago, Ccollins said:

 

(These surges cause loud (white?) noise to come out of my headphone system at times when that occurs when i’m listening to music whilst doing the washing

 

thanks

Fix your washing machine.

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Running aging Meridian equipement which i would like to protect from irregularities from the mains.
Especially to filter line noise contamination through my system.
This board has a couple of hi current capacity outlets for the likes of my 558 Meridian power amp
200 watt per channel x 5, with hefty terriodial
Transformers.

All over the news about brown outs and power failures due to the draw on the grid from aircons and i live in queensland where it is hot.

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9 minutes ago, paulrp said:

Running aging Meridian equipement which i would like to protect from irregularities from the mains.
Especially to filter line noise contamination through my system.
This board has a couple of hi current capacity outlets for the likes of my 558 Meridian power amp
200 watt per channel x 5, with hefty terriodial
Transformers.

All over the news about brown outs and power failures due to the draw on the grid from aircons and i live in queensland where it is hot.

So, to ask the question, in yet another way:

 

What AUDIBLY significant problems are you trying to solve? 

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Have a all so faint ticking coming through chanell 4. It could be caps in the amp. And there has been some sharp pops when pause then play the media player through my oppo line in.
Process of elimination and protection for the gear

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14 minutes ago, paulrp said:

Have a all so faint ticking coming through chanell 4. It could be caps in the amp.

OK, so not an external fault. 

 

14 minutes ago, paulrp said:

 

And there has been some sharp pops when pause then play the media player through my oppo line in.
Process of elimination and protection for the gear

OK, more internal faults. Don't waste your money. 

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Guest scumbag

I had a Thor A12BF on my system here in my office for quite some time. I then switched to a more expensive Isotek power filter. I couldn't pick the difference (if any) between them in terms of performance though the Isotek does look more spiffy :sarc:

My office is a refurbished Bank building that has 1 foot thick concrete walls and floors. Unfortunately we have an Orthodontist below us and they have all manners of compressors, drills and so forth. This is of course something that we cannot fix, unlike (cough) a fridge for example.

Anyway, I sold the Isotek last Monday as I am getting a balanced isolation transformer with filtering coming from the UK.

I swapped out the Isotek and put in a $8 Officeworks surge guard power strip. Just a simple white plastic jobbie that stops lightening strikes.

As soon as I did this, I instantly started getting nasty, loud spikes and pops through the speaker. I wasn't getting them with the Isotek (or the Thor unit) but started getting them as soon as I switched to a simple unfiltered power board. I can't tell you that there is more background noise or other qualitative differences with the cheap power strip but those pops and noises annoy and concern me so I would heartily recommend the Thor or the Isotek from experience.

 

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4 minutes ago, Zaphod Beeblebrox said:

OK, so not an external fault. 

 

OK, more internal faults. Don't waste your money. 

Your opinion counts!

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3 minutes ago, scumbag said:

 

I swapped out the Isotek and put in a $8 Officeworks surge guard power strip. Just a simple white plastic jobbie that stops lightening strikes.

 

 

It's an aside from the filtering issue, but nothing will stop lightning strikes.  You might stop a small surge from a long way distant in the power grid, but a local strike will jump over anything that will fit in a power board.

 

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10 minutes ago, aussievintage said:

 

It's an aside from the filtering issue, but nothing will stop lightning strikes.  You might stop a small surge from a long way distant in the power grid, but a local strike will jump over anything that will fit in a power board.

 

I do switch everything off at the wall overnight and on the weekends. I had assumed that the surge protection boards would stop lightening strikes. Live and learn!

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1 minute ago, scumbag said:

I do switch everything off at the wall overnight and on the weekends. I had assumed that the surge protection boards would stop lightening strikes. Live and learn!

NOTHING stops a lightning strike. All humans can do is (hope) to divert the energy another way. Hence you see large buildings fitted with lightning rods. 

 

The most substantial surge limiter I've ever stripped apart was fitted around 1,200 joules of MOV devices, which are designed to cope with over-Voltage events.

 

A typical lightning strike possess around 1,000,000,000 joules of energy. Enough to convert a150mm diameter section of soil to a form of glass down to a Metre or so. HUGE amounts of energy. 

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