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Owners' Thread Panasonic Viera Th-p50vt20a


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I used to have the SXRD with the low iris setting but high power as otherwise there was flickering.
My SXRD shows no flicker for my sensitive to flicker eyes, even at low power, but the magnificent SXRD colour is not quite as satisfying for me at low power. For routine use connected to a PC, I have my SXRD power saving on. This keeps the brightness down to a comfortable level for extended night-time viewing.
I have all HDMI connection so presumably the DVI setting you mention is not relevant to me.

DVI doesn't include audio but I undertand the video uses the same scheme, just a different connector. Blu-ray players output using the video range 16-235 whereas PC video cards will typically use 0 to 255. Could be worth checking whether "DVI Full" gives a better picture on your VT20 for very dark and very brights parts of the picture content coming from a PC.

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My SXRD shows no flicker for my sensitive to flicker eyes, even at low power, but the magnificent SXRD colour is not quite as satisfying for me at low power. For routine use connected to a PC, I have my SXRD power saving on. This keeps the brightness down to a comfortable level for extended night-time viewing.[/color]

DVI doesn't include audio but I undertand the video uses the same scheme, just a different connector. Blu-ray players output using the video range 16-235 whereas PC video cards will typically use 0 to 255. Could be worth checking whether "DVI Full" gives a better picture on your VT20 for very dark and very brights parts of the picture content coming from a PC.

I think the SXRD flickering was due to the lamp nearing the end of its life. Do you think the SXRD colour is better than the Pana? My impression so far is that they are both wonderful but the blacks on the Pana are outstanding. A revelation after the Sony.

I will experiment with the DVI setting, thanks for that. I do have my ATI card set at 0-255 and have adjusted the WMC as well.

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Do you think the SXRD colour is better than the Pana? My impression so far is that they are both wonderful but the blacks on the Pana are outstanding. A revelation after the Sony.

When I first got my 50" VT20 I couldn't help noticing how much deeper the blacks were than with my Sony SXRD.

If I reduce the desktop window size for my 60" SXRD to match the Panasonic 50" screen size I can compare the colour and gamma subjectively. Most of the time, I prefer the SXRD. Although I can notice a blue cast particularly in dark parts of the SXRD picture and although the SXRD picture is slightly softer looking, it seems closer to what I see when I go outside and observe real life.

I have experimented a little with the gamma settings of the Panasonic but for my eyes it still has a dark plasma panel look that emphasises darker parts of a picture. This is what the market must like.

I note that the flicker on your SXRD set occurred with the lamp nearing the end of its useful life. How do you find flicker on your 65" VT20? I purchased my 50" VT20 conscious that flicker could be an issue and I find it definitely is. My SXRD displays a desktop perfectly calm and still. My VT20 produces noticeable flicker (for me and my partner).

Edited by MLXXX
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When I first got my 50" VT20 I couldn't help noticing how much deeper the blacks were than with my Sony SXRD.

If I reduce the desktop window size for my 60" SXRD to match the Panasonic 50" screen size I can compare the colour and gamma subjectively. Most of the time, I prefer the SXRD. Although I can notice a blue cast particularly in dark parts of the SXRD picture and although the SXRD picture is slightly softer looking, it seems closer to what I see when I go outside and observe real life.

I have experimented a little with the gamma settings of the Panasonic but for my eyes it still has a dark plasma panel look that emphasises darker parts of a picture. This is what the market must like.

I note that the flicker on your SXRD set occurred with the lamp nearing the end of its useful life. How do you find flicker on your 65" VT20? I purchased my 50" VT20 conscious that flicker could be an issue and I find it definitely is. My SXRD displays a desktop perfectly calm and still. My VT20 produces noticeable flicker (for me and my partner).

Interesting about the colours. I always thought the SXRD made grass and raw carrots (yes seriously... I watch cooking shows) look artificial, whereas on the Pana they look more realistic. I would love to have the Pana professionally calibrated but as I found with the SXRD people in the country are at a disadvantage.

Regarding flicker with the Pana I have occasionally noticed a "shimmer", not really a flicker, on the white email window but not anywhere else. Definitely no problems on video of any sort, so far. Did I mention I find the Pana seems to be much better with SD material than the Sony was?

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It seems people have very different responses to colour.

Did I mention I find the Pana seems to be much better with SD material than the Sony was?
That's an interesting remark. I find SD disappointing on my SXRD simply because of the inherent lack of intensity and colour resolution of SD. I feed it SD rescaled to 1080p by my HTPC.

Many people have criticized earlier model Panny plasma sets for soft SD performance because of poor rescaling and I have seen a comment that current Sammys beat even current Plasma Pannies in that regard. However, on my 50" VT20, SD has the same sharpness (softness?) on a 576i channel whether through the built-in tuner (i.e. using the Panny's rescaling) or from a 1080p50 desktop (using rescaling by a good quality video card).

Using the built-in tuner, GO! looks fine on my VT20, just a bit soft as it must be with the unusually low resolution transmission format GO! uses. Occasionally I notice that the de-interlacing is not perfect in isolated parts of the picture (comb tooth effect). I have to wonder whether the VT20s have been fully optimised for 50Hz. The de-interlacing should be better.

_____________

My 50" VT20 is currently displaying vertical streaks, which may be retention of the desktop I use (bamboo). I do hope this is just a temporary effect...

Edited by MLXXX
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Hi, I was planning to use an energy saving power board to switch on/off backlights (LED strips). I bought this one from Bunnings:

Jackson Energy Saving Power Board

I used my 50VT20a as the 'master' and connected the LED lights plug pack to the 'slave' socket.

BUT, to my surprise the board never switches off the slave, which according to Jackson means the TV is drawing more than 30W in standby. Even with main power switch on the TV off, the board stays 'on'. Only physically unplugging the TV shuts off the slave.

I've tried the power board on the BDT300 blu-ray player and it worked as expected, although I had to wait a few minutes after the Blu-ray was in stand-by before the slaves dropped off.

The Panasonic specs have two values for standby, 19W and 0.4 W, both well below 30W. But if the board is working as designed, even with the power switch OFF it appears that this TV is drawing more than 30W!

Surely that can't be? I wonder if there's something weird in the TV power supply that's fooling the power board...

BTW I have been in touch with Jackson and they kindly sent me a replacement board (great service) but the result was the same.

I'm now awaiting some cheap IR switched power units to try instead.

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It seems people have very different responses to colour.That's an interesting remark. I find SD disappointing on my SXRD simply because of the inherent lack of intensity and colour resolution of SD. I feed it SD rescaled to 1080p by my HTPC.[/color]

Many people have criticized earlier model Panny plasma sets for soft SD performance because of poor rescaling and I have seen a comment that current Sammys beat even current Plasma Pannies in that regard. However, on my 50" VT20, SD has the same sharpness (softness?) on a 576i channel whether through the built-in tuner (i.e. using the Panny's rescaling) or from a 1080p50 desktop (using rescaling by a good quality video card).

Using the built-in tuner, GO! looks fine on my VT20, just a bit soft as it must be with the unusually low resolution transmission format GO! uses. Occasionally I notice that the de-interlacing is not perfect in isolated parts of the picture (comb tooth effect). I have to wonder whether the VT20s have been fully optimised for 50Hz. The de-interlacing should be better.

_____________

My 50" VT20 is currently displaying vertical streaks, which may be retention of the desktop I use (bamboo). I do hope this is just a temporary effect...

I have my desktop set at 1080p/60hz via the ATI card. The scaling is done by the Pana. And I use the Shark7 codecs which have a function of sharpening Media Center which I find works subtly but effectively. It also sets MC at 0-255.

I haven't even tuned the built-in tuner so I can't compare the two at the moment.

Regarding the DVI setting mentioned earlier, I can find no such setting and am assuming that since I am HDMI all the way the function disappears. Unless I am missing something.

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Regarding the DVI setting mentioned earlier, I can find no such setting and am assuming that since I am HDMI all the way the function disappears. Unless I am missing something.

Sorry, you are right.

Yesterday I updated my old HTPC to an ATI card with DVI and HDMI outputs and as chance would have it connected the Panny HDMI input via HDMI cable and an adaptor to the ATI card's DVI connection. (I connected my SXRD via HDMI cable to the ATI card's HDMI output). A moment ago I swapped the connections around so the Panny set got HDMI "all the way", and now the DVI input range option no longer appears in the Panny options menu.

I have my desktop set at 1080p/60hz via the ATI card. The scaling is done by the Pana.

I don't understand. If the pc desktop is 1080p and the Panny is native 1080p the only scaling the Panny might need to do would be for overscan.

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Sorry, you are right.

Yesterday I updated my old HTPC to an ATI card with DVI and HDMI outputs and as chance would have it connected the Panny HDMI input via HDMI cable and an adaptor to the ATI card's DVI connection. (I connected my SXRD via HDMI cable to the ATI card's HDMI output). A moment ago I swapped the connections around so the Panny set got HDMI "all the way", and now the DVI input range option no longer appears in the Panny options menu.

I don't understand. If the pc desktop is 1080p and the Panny is native 1080p the only scaling the Panny might need to do would be for overscan.

Doesn't SD material have to be upscaled? I have overscan turned off in both ATI and the Panny. Are you playing BDs from the HTPC? And then bitstreaming HD audio via the ATI card? Which ATI drivers are you using? I'm still on 10.8 but wondering whether to go to 10.10.

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Doesn't SD material have to be upscaled? I have overscan turned off in both ATI and the Panny.

Partial and maximised windows on a pc desktop use the same refresh rate and pixel architecture as the desktop.

So Australian FTA interlaced SD run in a maximised media centre window on a pc operating a 1920x1080p60 destop will be:

1. deinterlaced by the pc (possibly using its graphics card)

2. upscaled to 1920x1080p60

There is a mismatch at 2 above between the frame rate of the 50Hz FTA and the frame rate of the desktop. It is usual in these circumstances for horizontally scrolling news flashes to be a little jerky.

In your case where the Pana uses no overscan, it will not need to rescale the 1920x1080p60 it receives from the pc.

Are you playing BDs from the HTPC? And then bitstreaming HD audio via the ATI card? Which ATI drivers are you using? I'm still on 10.8 but wondering whether to go to 10.10.

Am still using the motherboard high definition sound chip to run 5.1 analogue to the AVR. Can play BDs this way using TotalMedia Theatre (my HTPC runs Vista). The purchase of an AVR with HDMI inputs lies ahead. May be a complex decision!

You may get smoother scrolling credits for BDs if you run your desktop at 24Hz.

Can't help re the situation with bitstreaming drivers. That query may possibly fit into some existing thread in Digital TV Tuner Cards & Network Media Players.

Edited by MLXXX
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i have been noticing a lot of judder on my VT20 while playing BDs through Panny BDT-300 (Avatar, Pixar up ect.) specially on panning shots. the TV displays as 1080p/24hz input but the moment i turn IFC on the judder is almost nonexistent but produces video like images. all picture enhancement functions are off. please help am I doing something wrong here. one more thing i cant find 24p on/off option in the setting. thanks

Edited by philthomas
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i have been noticing a lot of judder on my VT20 while playing BDs through Panny BDT-300 (Avatar, Pixar up ect.) specially on panning shots. the TV displays as 1080p/24hz input but the moment i turn IFC on the judder is almost nonexistent but produces video like images. all picture enhancement functions are off. please help am I doing something wrong here. one more thing i cant find 24p on/off option in the setting. thanks

The 24p smooth is what removed the judder.... but that is the nature of film. Without it film looks like video. It inserts the frames that don't exist on film. You might want to try 4.2.2 pull down setting on the player. I haven't tried that as I am perfectly happy with the smoothing on... it's gonna be a matter of choice and preference I'm afraid.

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i have been noticing a lot of judder on my VT20 while playing BDs through Panny BDT-300 (Avatar, Pixar up ect.) specially on panning shots. the TV displays as 1080p/24hz input but the moment i turn IFC on the judder is almost nonexistent but produces video like images. all picture enhancement functions are off. please help am I doing something wrong here. one more thing i cant find 24p on/off option in the setting. thanks

That's what film looks like mate...some of us prefer it that way. ;)

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:( Just noticed a single faulty pixel -- it flicks to full green whenever the intensity is much above black. What a nightmare -- its incredibly distracting now that I see it. Its just a few cm from the centre of the screen.

I just re-read the Panasonic pixel policy and its vague -- useless. What do I do? Do these ever cure themselves (wishful thinking)?

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Has anyone got 3d Blueray to work through Windows Media Center 7, using an Nvidia graphics card?

I've tried TMT3 + the 3D add-on, but it doesn't display the 3D correctly. I can get the Nvidia 3D stuff working, but I only want 3D for when I run TMT3 plugin in Media Center.

anyone got 3D working via a Blueray Rom?

cheers

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Hey guys I bought my Panasonic Viera Th-p50vt20a 3D TV a month back. I'm very happy with the image quality. Just waiting for more 3D movies to be released. I thought that I would remind you all that if you all go to www.panasonic.com.au and click on the Avatar Link. For all of you that bought a Th-p50vt20a (etc) in the past (Yes that's right PAST) can get their free copy of the Avatar 3D movie. The sales man from Harvey Norman who sold me the TV a month ago called me last Friday to let me know. Talk about great service! The Avatar promo lasts until 31 December. I filled out my copy and sent it registered post along with the original receipt that they'll send back with the movie. Can't wait.

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... in the past (Yes that's right PAST) can get their free copy of the Avatar 3D movie. The sales man from Harvey Norman who sold me the TV a month ago called me last Friday to let me know.

Do you have a weblink zorg8 for people who bought pre-1 November? I can see the bundle offer for people who bought on and after 1 November.

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To coincide with the launch of the BONUS 3D Avatar Home Theatre Pack promotion that commenced on 1st November 2010, Panasonic are excited to also offer Avatar 3D on Blu-ray Disc to those customers who have already purchased a Panasonic VIErA 3D Plasma TV prior to 1st November.

That's right, if you have already purchased a Panasonic VIERA 3D Plasma TV, you are be eligible to receive a free copy of AVATAR on 3D Blu-ray, courtesy of Panasonic.

Muchos gracias! I will be awaiting my copy of the 3D version of Avatar with eager anticipation.

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How many owners have a dead or 'flickering' pixel on their VT20 panel?

I just wanted to get an idea of the probability that I'll get another panel with another faulty pixel. If there's a high chance of that I'll just keep the one I have.

Thanks.

PS Yes I have contacted Panasonic.

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How many owners have a dead or 'flickering' pixel on their VT20 panel?

Not on my VT20 panel.

(Though there are some faint vertical streaks as if the screen is dirty. These have been present for some weeks now.)

Edited by MLXXX
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For 24fps movies I would express a definite preference for 48Hz 3D over 60Hz. Although the motion can at times be more disjointed than with 60Hz 3D, it has a more solid look to it. This is for 3D with its alternating of left and right images. [Note this is not the same as 48Hz 2D, with its repetitions of the same monoscopic frame image, which on some Plasma displays has been criticized as unwatchably flickery. See for example: http://forum.blu-ray.com/display-theory-di...tml#post3759990.]

I've been asked where to access the 48Hz and 60Hz settings. On the Viera TH-P50VT20A, when you are playing a Blu-ray 3D movie at 24fps (make sure the Blu-ray player is set to output 24p), you should be able to access them as follows with your TV remote control:

  1. Menu button
  2. Setup
  3. Scroll down to Other Settings and hit ok to access
  4. The top Other Settings item is "3D 24p Film Display". It has two options: 60Hz and 48Hz.

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i’ve crossed 100 hrs. break in period so can you guys pls. post settings of your calibrated Vt20 I know THX mode is pretty close to the sweet spot but i’m lookin for more pop out of this baby. thanks.

Er do you want accurate calibration or pop? Normal consumer settings give heightened colour saturation and contrast (a bit like bass and treble boost for audio, instead of audiophile flat tone control settings). THX type settings give less "pop".

In terms of exact calibration, each set would differ slightly, which of course is what "calibration" is all about...

i'm not fussy about exact calibration myself, but on my own set I do prefer the THX setting to the normal setting.

Here are some impressions I provided early in this thread:

5. My subjective comments on the various different viewing modes in the TV picture menu are as follows:
  • Dynamic - way too much brightness and contrast

  • Normal - crushed blacks (a look of many CRT TVs in the past)

  • Cinema - pleasant but slight blue cast, and default colour a bit strong [To use this viewing mode, I reduced the picture colour setting from "50" to "43"]

  • THX [and default professional 1 and 2, only available if "Advance(isfccc)" is set to On] - very restrained, a yellow cast

I found the cinema setting more pleasing than the THX setting. It could be with my set that the THX setting is a little out of adjustment. I may experiment with this in the future. At this point I am using "Cinema" with slightly reduced colour intensity.

I too may have 100 hours up by now. I haven't noticed any major change in colour.

For "pop", I think the cinema setting is not too bad. For accuracy, the THX setting looks closer to the mark but I still find on my particular set that it seems a bit yellowish.

Perhaps others more interested in exact calibration than I, could make more specific comments.

Edited by MLXXX
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Er do you want accurate calibration or pop? Normal consumer settings give heightened colour saturation and contrast (a bit like bass and treble boost for audio, instead of audiophile flat tone control settings). THX type settings give less "pop".

In terms of exact calibration, each set would differ slightly, which of course is what "calibration" is all about...

i'm not fussy about exact calibration myself, but on my own set I do prefer the THX setting to the normal setting.

Here are some impressions I provided early in this thread:

I too may have 100 hours up by now. I haven't noticed any major change in colour.

For "pop", I think the cinema setting is not too bad. For accuracy, the THX setting looks closer to the mark but I still find on my particular set that it seems a bit yellowish.

Perhaps others more interested in exact calibration than I, could make more specific comments.

hey thanks for your advice i too feel that THX seems a bit yellowish. there are plenty of calibration settings available for US & UK Vt20/25 on the net but failed to find any for our VT20.

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I've been asked where to access the 48Hz and 60Hz settings. On the Viera TH-P50VT20A, when you are playing a Blu-ray 3D movie at 24fps (make sure the Blu-ray player is set to output 24p), you should be able to access them as follows with your TV remote control:

  1. Menu button
  2. Setup
  3. Scroll down to Other Settings and hit ok to access
  4. The top Other Settings item is "3D 24p Film Display". It has two options: 60Hz and 48Hz.

The 65 is different. It is not as described above. The top selection in other settings is ISF on or off. No where in the menu system is "3D 24p Film Display".

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The 65 is different. It is not as described above. The top selection in other settings is ISF on or off. No where in the menu system is "3D 24p Film Display".

I get the menu item "Intelligent Frame Creation" (IFC) if there is no video input.

With 2D Bu-ray input at 24p, the menu item changes, on my 50" set, to "24p Smooth Film".

With 3D Blu-ray input at 24p, the menu item changes, on my 50" set, to "3D 24p Film Display".

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I'm thinking of buying a TH-P50VT20A and have a question about hooking it up to the now included SC-BTT755 Bluray speaker system and an HTPC.

I'm still stuck in the CRT era, so all this HDMI stuff is new to me.

The SC-BTT755 has an HDMI output to the TV for the Bluray video. Easy so far.

There are no HDMI inputs on the SC-BTT755, so I will have to connect the HTPC (probably a nettop running Linux + XBMC) to one of the TV's HDMI ports. This should get both video and audio to the TV.

Can I get the audio from the TV back to the SC-BTT755?

The specs for the TH-P50VT20A list its optical audio out connection as 'DVB-T Only'.

Does this mean that the TV will only output audio from the internal tuner via the optical jack?

Thanks

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I get the menu item "Intelligent Frame Creation" (IFC) if there is no video input.

With 2D Bu-ray input at 24p, the menu item changes, on my 50" set, to "24p Smooth Film".

With 3D Blu-ray input at 24p, the menu item changes, on my 50" set, to "3D 24p Film Display".

So... does IFC 'on' run at 100Hz (4 times 25Hz)?

Does 24p Smooth Film 'on' run at 96Hz (4 times 24Hz) and 24p when 'off'?

Does 3D 24p Film Display 'on' run at 48Hz or 60 Hz or 24 Hz??

RTFM to find out... haha too many footnotes, ifs, buts, and maybes in there. <_<

Thanks for clues.

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How many owners have a dead or 'flickering' pixel on their VT20 panel?

[...]

PS Yes I have contacted Panasonic.

When you read the Panasonic pixel statement, be aware that:

there are a number of allowable pixel/sub-pixel failures that still allow the panel to be defined as a good panel

allowable means four (4) "failures". :o

And when you read:

It is not possible to guarantee absolutely no pixel loss

be aware that "loss" (or "failure") does not mean only dead pixels, nor only fixed 'on', it also means flickering randomly in any colour. <_<

And that "guarantee" in the above sentence of course means no warranty coverage at all. :angry2:

On this basis I'm no longer recommending Panasonic screens to my friends and relatives (well, anyone) unless they can obtain a return agreement with the retailer.

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I really feel for you Scott. You must be very unlucky to have a pixel issue as most panels, monitors and laptops seem to be relatively free of this bug which was so much more common a few years ago. You'd think that as it is less common they could do something for you!

On the other hand, this is possibly one of the prices of the super competitive pricing these days. Low margins are making the management of these companies more reluctant to do "policy" adjustments cause they got to sell 10 sets to make up for each swap out they do.

Come on Panasonic.... do the right thing and help this guy out. If just 10 people see his post and decide against buying Panasonic then its cost you anyway. If its 100, then its cost you ten times as much as replacing the set...................!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Wonder if they watch this forum?

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So... does IFC 'on' run at 100Hz (4 times 25Hz)?

Does 24p Smooth Film 'on' run at 96Hz (4 times 24Hz) and 24p when 'off'?

Does 3D 24p Film Display 'on' run at 48Hz or 60 Hz or 24 Hz??

RTFM to find out... haha too many footnotes, ifs, buts, and maybes in there. <_<

Thanks for clues.

Off the top of my head:

I assume IFC would run at 120 screen refreshes a second in the United States. We may get 120Hz too in Australia for simplicity of circuit design. Suspect it would be hard to pick the difference by eye between IFC at 100Hz and IFC at 120Hz.

I assume 2D 24p would run at 96 frames a second in groups of four repeated frames for 24p smooth off, or groups of one original and three interpolated frames with 24p smooth on.

I assume 3D 48Hz if selected for a 24p 3D source involves no interpolated frames. Each original Left Frame would be displayed twice. Each original Right Frame would be displayed twice. In an alternating pattern LRLR (i.e. L
1
R
1
L
1
R
1
, L
2
R
2
L
2
R
2
, L
3
R
3
L
3
R
3
, ...).

I assume that 3D 60Hz if selected for a 60p 3D source (the Panasonic demo disc with the Blu-ray player includes some 720p60) involves no interpolated frames. Each original Left Frame would be displayed twice. Each original Right Frame would be displayed twice in an alternating pattern: LRLR.

With side by side 50i (e.g. the 3D test transmissions in Australia of Australian football and World Cup soccer), you need to select side by side manually. There is then no menu selection available for display frame rate. I assume each Left side deinterlaced frame (and there are 50 unique Left frames per second using 50i) and each Right side deinterlaced frame is displayed twice in an alternating pattern: LRLR.

Late edit 13 Aug 2011: see notations in red at post #191.

I really feel for you Scott. You must be very unlucky to have a pixel issue as most panels, monitors and laptops seem to be relatively free of this bug which was so much more common a few years ago.

True.

Edited by MLXXX
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I'm thinking of buying a TH-P50VT20A and have a question about hooking it up to the now included SC-BTT755 Bluray speaker system and an HTPC.

I'm still stuck in the CRT era, so all this HDMI stuff is new to me.

The SC-BTT755 has an HDMI output to the TV for the Bluray video. Easy so far.

There are no HDMI inputs on the SC-BTT755, so I will have to connect the HTPC (probably a nettop running Linux + XBMC) to one of the TV's HDMI ports. This should get both video and audio to the TV.

Can I get the audio from the TV back to the SC-BTT755?

The specs for the TH-P50VT20A list its optical audio out connection as 'DVB-T Only'.

Does this mean that the TV will only output audio from the internal tuner via the optical jack?

Thanks

i believe all you need to do is run a hdmi 1.4 cable in the hdmi arc input/output on the tv and run it to the home theatre and this will do exactly what you want

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I've been asked where to access the 48Hz and 60Hz settings. On the Viera TH-P50VT20A, when you are playing a Blu-ray 3D movie at 24fps (make sure the Blu-ray player is set to output 24p), you should be able to access them as follows with your TV remote control:

  1. Menu button
  2. Setup
  3. Scroll down to Other Settings and hit ok to access
  4. The top Other Settings item is "3D 24p Film Display". It has two options: 60Hz and 48Hz.

Is there a way to turn 24p for 3d so it runs at 60? I noticed in the James Cameron preferred settings he has 24p film set to OFF, yet we only get 48 or 96

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Is there a way to turn 24p for 3d so it runs at 60? I noticed in the James Cameron preferred settings he has 24p film set to OFF, yet we only get 48 or 96

Do we? I get 48 and 60 as the options for "3D 24p Film Display" on my menu.

I find that my Blu-ray player will use 24fps output when playing a 3D disc in Full 3D mode, even with the 24fps output option being set to off in the Blu-ray player options. [The player will output 60fps with a 2D disc if 24fps is set to off.]

Director Cameron's relevant recommendations are (from http://3dvision-blog.com/watch-avatar-in-s...erred-settings/ ):

12.Use the button to switch "24p Smooth Film" to OFF.

Use the button to switch "3D 24p Film Display" to OFF.

* This setup is not available depending on the model.

Switching smooth film to off would stop interpolation. Our 50" sets don't appear to offer the menu option of "smooth film" for full 3D, anyway.

As for "3D 24p Film Display", our 50" sets provide two options when a 3D Blu-ray is playing: 48Hz and 60Hz (as I mentioned above at post #68). There is no "off" option. I am not sure what the recommendation "off" means. It might mean avoid 48Hz (a film rate) and use 60Hz (a non-film rate). My personal assessment is that 60Hz on my set looks more fluid, but less "solid" and less "orderly" (it looks a bit "jumbled" to me).

As some background info, I note this comment in a review of a the TX-P50VT20, which is the UK version of the 50" ( http://www.hdtvtest.co.uk/news/panasonic-t...20100520694.htm ):

Finally, when a 3D BD player is sending 3D 24p film material, the [3D 24p Film Display] option appears in the TV’s [setup] > [Other Settings] screen. This setting refreshes the Plasma display at a multiple of 24 times per second, avoiding motion judder. This is a very confusing menu option, because it appears in the exact same place as the [intelligent Frame Creation] and [24p Smooth Film] options which show up with 2D material. Those two options are motion interpolating controls which give films the awkward “sped-up soap opera” look and have confused many users over the years. Conversely, [3D 24p Film Display] does nothing of the sort and unlike the aforementioned controls, we recommend turning it on, because it displays films without judder by changing the panel refresh rate, not by inventing motion which never existed in the first place.

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Muchos gracias! I will be awaiting my copy of the 3D version of Avatar with eager anticipation.

Arrived today.

During a 5 minute short test run, played on the Blu-ray player without problems.

The 3D is nice and mild, so a very close viewing position works.

Very immersive, at times i feel I am looking through a window into real life.

Motion not entirely fluid, not as fluid as at the cinema.

Champagne is on ice. Official home screening later tonight!

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Did I read that the batteries in the glasses are only good for up to 3.2m from the screen?

If you did read that, it was wrong. The Panasonic glasses work 10 metres away, or more, which is much further away than you would want to sit. The TV puts out a strong infra-red signal (in fact it jams my Microsoft infra-red keyboard, making typing labourious if the TV is on and in 3D mode).

Last night we watched about half of Avatar 3D. We saw the 50" screen (which really is a bit too small in my opinion for 3D viewing) with the sofa at a viewing distance of 2.5m which was a little bit too far away for a strong 3D effect. The sofa should have been closer.

I found that if I moved to a stool at a distance of 1.75m (yes very close) it was a much more cinema like experience (the picture filled my field of view) and the stereoscopic 3D really came to life with "3D distance detail" visible. In fact I saw more 3D effect than I recall seeing at the cinema. (At the cinema I had sat about a third of the way back from the screen.)

This movie does contain some very satisfying real life 3D (i.e. not just pure anime like Monsters vs Aliens which I think you're about to view). Cheers

Edited by MLXXX
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Just read the 3D manual for the first time and for the 65" Panasonic recommends 2.4m distance. If you read the safety precautions you might be too scared to put the glasses on! I get migraines so we will see.

Anyway I'll have a look at Monster House tonight. I normally sit 4m from the set which I know many people think is much too far.

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