BladeRnR Posted May 15, 2010 Posted May 15, 2010 (edited) Gidday, I was wondering if anyone used a non-standard bracket(s) to mount their OZTS projector screen? My screen wall is ever so slightly convex and the metal strip that came with the OZTS screen required me to "lift" it at the extreme ends so the screen could sit in the groove evenly along it's length. I'm a bit fearful that one day the screen will pop out of the groove and fall. I'll take a trip to Bunnings to have a look but just wondering if anyone used a different bracket to mount their screen? The metal strip is rather flimsy and thin (But then I think it was only ever designed for a plaster wall hanging scenario). The screen wall is double brick so the bracket would have to be able to take a strong anchor bolt. Any suggestions would be most welcome. Blade Edited May 15, 2010 by BladeRnR
weff Posted May 15, 2010 Posted May 15, 2010 Gidday,I was wondering if anyone used a non-standard bracket(s) to mount their OZTS projector screen? My screen wall is ever so slightly convex and the metal strip that came with the OZTS screen required me to "lift" it at the extreme ends so the screen could sit in the groove evenly along it's length. I'm a bit fearful that one day the screen will pop out of the groove and fall. I'll take a trip to Bunnings to have a look but just wondering if anyone used a different bracket to mount their screen? The metal strip is rather flimsy and thin (But then I think it was only ever designed for a plaster wall hanging scenario). The screen wall is double brick so the bracket would have to be able to take a strong anchor bolt. Any suggestions would be most welcome. Blade At one stage I mounted my ozts screen on the wall (prior to realizing that the room was too shallow in that orientation for the speaker placement) - and although it's a plasterboard wall - I had similar difficulties as the wall is a bit warped as well and I never got the feeling that the screen was clipping into the bracket properly. The bottom of the screen ended up slighlty off the wall and I ended up using a toggle bolt through the lower screen border (on the outer edge) - with the toggle in behind the plaster to secure it. The wall mounting came after trying the 1st version of a rotating screen so I had already drilled the corners and middle of borders on outer edge to mount it to the frame ...so the holes were already there. I also could never see the edge of the bracket clipping in so it was done by feel without any confidence. I think part of it might be the bracket edge being so close to the wall - perhaps if there were spacers behind the bracket there would be more clearance on the top lip so the screen slot would go down further and feel more secure. The least noticeable mounting suggestion is to fit a small square plate at each top corner (using black self-tapper countersunk screws at the border edge) and then have a captive slotted-hole in the back of the plate - with a single bolt protruding from the wall at each top corner - using standard brick fixings for the bolt - the bolt head fitting into the captive hole. Or just bolt the square plate to the wall and use self-tapper screws through the frame into the plate to secure it. Both these last options will lift the screen off the wall slightly - but probably not enough to be noticeable.
BladeRnR Posted May 15, 2010 Author Posted May 15, 2010 At one stage I mounted my ozts screen on the wall (prior to realizing that the room was too shallow in that orientation for the speaker placement) - and although it's a plasterboard wall - I had similar difficulties as the wall is a bit warped as well and I never got the feeling that the screen was clipping into the bracket properly. The bottom of the screen ended up slighlty off the wall and I ended up using a toggle bolt through the lower screen border (on the outer edge) - with the toggle in behind the plaster to secure it. The wall mounting came after trying the 1st version of a rotating screen so I had already drilled the corners and middle of borders on outer edge to mount it to the frame ...so the holes were already there.I also could never see the edge of the bracket clipping in so it was done by feel without any confidence. I think part of it might be the bracket edge being so close to the wall - perhaps if there were spacers behind the bracket there would be more clearance on the top lip so the screen slot would go down further and feel more secure. The least noticeable mounting suggestion is to fit a small square plate at each top corner (using black self-tapper countersunk screws at the border edge) and then have a captive slotted-hole in the back of the plate - with a single bolt protruding from the wall at each top corner - using standard brick fixings for the bolt - the bolt head fitting into the captive hole. Or just bolt the square plate to the wall and use self-tapper screws through the frame into the plate to secure it. Both these last options will lift the screen off the wall slightly - but probably not enough to be noticeable. Thanks Weff there's a couple of excellent suggestions there I'll investigate. I used washers to space the metal strip off the wall to make it "straight" but as you said my confidence has never been high this mounting solution is as secure as it could (should) be. I'll look into your suggestions. The reason I'm redressing the mounting of the screen is I'm blacking out the white wall surrounding the screen with some custom made black felt panels so I thought I might as well fix that issue while I'm about it. Anyway I'lll let you know how I progress. Cheers Blade
mr-happy-pants Posted May 16, 2010 Posted May 16, 2010 My wall is slightly convex I cut solid timber spacers to sit between the metal bracket and the wall; where the mounting screws are I use the updated wide braket Works a treat
CAVX Posted May 17, 2010 Posted May 17, 2010 My wall is slightly convexI cut solid timber spacers to sit between the metal bracket and the wall; where the mounting screws are I use the updated wide braket Works a treat My suggestion would have been to fix the bracket (rail) at the centre, then add spaces to ensure the metal is actually flat.
BladeRnR Posted May 17, 2010 Author Posted May 17, 2010 My suggestion would have been to fix the bracket (rail) at the centre, then add spaces to ensure the metal is actually flat. The GLW has actually given the go-ahead to pain the screen wall "any colour you want" - she made this decision after she saw how much effort it was going to take me to wrap black velvet panels. As for hanging the screen I am now considering....Heavy Duty Velcro to avoid having to drill holes at all. 50mm square of Velcro can hold 7Kg. I'm not sure what the 130" OZTS Scope Screen would weigh (Guessing 10 - 15kg's?). Velcro would easily hold that with strips top and bottom. That way I avoid spoiling a freshly painted wall . Worth a try anyway - if it crashes to earth I only have myself to blame Blade
oztheatre Posted May 17, 2010 Posted May 17, 2010 My wall is slightly convexI cut solid timber spacers to sit between the metal bracket and the wall; where the mounting screws are I use the updated wide braket Works a treat I think that's a good idea. If running a long strip of timber on the wall for the rail to sit on (to bring the whole thing out off the wall say 30mm) I would use something like finger joint pine which is extremely flat. The other trick is not to over tighten the button head screws supplied with it as this can kink the alloy.. but telling a Man not to over tighten the screws for their thousand dollar screen to sit on is like telling a woman not to breast feed The rail isn't perfect, it needs changing a little, but it means a new lot of tooling whereas the current rail is an off the shelf extrusion which is always a nice find.
BladeRnR Posted May 17, 2010 Author Posted May 17, 2010 I think that's a good idea. If running a long strip of timber on the wall for the rail to sit on (to bring the whole thing out off the wall say 30mm) I would use something like finger joint pine which is extremely flat. The other trick is not to over tighten the button head screws supplied with it as this can kink the alloy.. but telling a Man not to over tighten the screws for their thousand dollar screen to sit on is like telling a woman not to breast feed The rail isn't perfect, it needs changing a little, but it means a new lot of tooling whereas the current rail is an off the shelf extrusion which is always a nice find. That reply gave me a laugh Rich. what does a 130" scope screen weigh mate - will my Heavy Duty Velcro idea fly? The only problem the installer had with the strip was he was putting it into brick and didnt have a clue and I had to fix it afterwards. If it were into wood it would have been far far easier. That's why I've been looking for an alternative bracket. Blade
oztheatre Posted May 17, 2010 Posted May 17, 2010 That reply gave me a laugh Rich. what does a 130" scope screen weigh mate - will my Heavy Duty Velcro idea fly? The only problem the installer had with the strip was he was putting it into brick and didnt have a clue and I had to fix it afterwards. If it were into wood it would have been far far easier. That's why I've been looking for an alternative bracket. Blade Not sure how much it would weigh, I'm guessing around 11-13KG. I only know the overall boxed weight, which is then cubed volumetrically anyway. What about our smaller hanging brackets? The only reason we don't put them in with the larger screens is because it would mean aligning 3 or 4 brass brackets perfectly, which is a bit of stuffing around. Can send you those if you wanna take a look? Velcro? hmm not sure there and could not advise on that.
BladeRnR Posted May 17, 2010 Author Posted May 17, 2010 Not sure how much it would weigh, I'm guessing around 11-13KG. I only know the overall boxed weight, which is then cubed volumetrically anyway.What about our smaller hanging brackets? The only reason we don't put them in with the larger screens is because it would mean aligning 3 or 4 brass brackets perfectly, which is a bit of stuffing around. Can send you those if you wanna take a look? Velcro? hmm not sure there and could not advise on that. That sounds good Richard I'll give the brackets a go as well. Happy to spend some time aligning so that doesn't bother me at all. I've sent you a PM. Cheers Blade
weff Posted May 17, 2010 Posted May 17, 2010 Not sure how much it would weigh, I'm guessing around 11-13KG. I only know the overall boxed weight, which is then cubed volumetrically anyway.What about our smaller hanging brackets? The only reason we don't put them in with the larger screens is because it would mean aligning 3 or 4 brass brackets perfectly, which is a bit of stuffing around. Can send you those if you wanna take a look? Velcro? hmm not sure there and could not advise on that. I think its likely the velcro to velcro join would hold - its the screen to velcro and velcro to wall joins I'd be wary of. I don't trust the self-adhesive backing of the velcro strips to hold - especially if there is any weight ...add some warmth and it'll likely slide off the surface it's supposed to be adhering to. If you could securely fasten the velcro to the wall/screen though ...then likely be ok.
oztheatre Posted May 17, 2010 Posted May 17, 2010 I think its likely the velcro to velcro join would hold - its the screen to velcro and velcro to wall joins I'd be wary of. I don't trust the self-adhesive backing of the velcro strips to hold - especially if there is any weight ...add some warmth and it'll likely slide off the surface it's supposed to be adhering to. If you could securely fasten the velcro to the wall/screen though ...then likely be ok. Great idea! Screw or bolt the velcro to the wall Dynabolts are in the post.
BladeRnR Posted May 17, 2010 Author Posted May 17, 2010 I think its likely the velcro to velcro join would hold - its the screen to velcro and velcro to wall joins I'd be wary of. I don't trust the self-adhesive backing of the velcro strips to hold - especially if there is any weight ...add some warmth and it'll likely slide off the surface it's supposed to be adhering to. If you could securely fasten the velcro to the wall/screen though ...then likely be ok. I had the same thought Weff. Screen to Velcro I'd consider a strong glue to enhance the "grip" but Velcro to wall is a bit more problematic. We'll see what Richard has given me and I'll consider it further then. Blade
BladeRnR Posted May 17, 2010 Author Posted May 17, 2010 The GLW has given me the green light to paint the screen wall "Any colour you want" which makes things far easier for me in regards to darkening the area around the screen. It won't be black but a very dark grey I'm thinking. I'll paint it on the weekend so she doesn't change her mind! Blade
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