Cooling For Power Amp

[tb1231503560936]

I'm looking to put a 12V fan into the rear of my cabinet to assist in keeping my power amp cool (the cabinet is enclosed) and have 2 questions.

1) Can I plug the 12V fan directly into the 12V trigger "out" of the amp to provide automation. I have the 12V trigger active from my AVR.

2) Do you have the fan drawing warm air out, or blowing cool air in? The cabinet is closed with a door at the front. I have drilled additional (9) holes in the side of the cabinet and there is cable access at the rear. Not sure best way to go.

cheers

TB

[50mxe20]

I'd cut out the back completely and in the summer leave the front door open.

However, if installing a fan, I'd exhaust the hot air rather than trying to push cool air in.

Does your AVR have a power plug. You might be able to connect the fan to that.

Afterall what is that plug for??

[tb1231503560936]

Thanks Lyle.

My old Yamaha amp had a power point but the new one doesnt.

I will probably end up leaving the door open as you say.

I'm still curious to know if I could use the 12V trigger to powwer the fan?

[jakes]

Thanks Lyle.

My old Yamaha amp had a power point but the new one doesnt.

I will probably end up leaving the door open as you say.

I'm still curious to know if I could use the 12V trigger to powwer the fan?

Pretty sure this has been asked before, so if you search for 'fan' or 'cooling' you may find the info. I can't really remember the details, but I think the problem with doing what you're suggesting is that some AVRs send a momentary pulse when they activate their 12v triggers (which is obviously no good). I think there may be some that do send constant power, but the current isn't sufficient to power a fan. Basically the only way that you can use the 12v trigger with a fan is to hook it up to a powered relay so that the fan switches on when you power up your AVR. I'm reasonably sure one of the threads on fan cooling equipment cabinets has a link to a circuit you could use to set up this sort of switching mechanism.

[tb1231503560936]

Pretty sure this has been asked before, so if you search for 'fan' or 'cooling' you may find the info. I can't really remember the details, but I think the problem with doing what you're suggesting is that some AVRs send a momentary pulse when they activate their 12v triggers (which is obviously no good). I think there may be some that do send constant power, but the current isn't sufficient to power a fan. Basically the only way that you can use the 12v trigger with a fan is to hook it up to a powered relay so that the fan switches on when you power up your AVR. I'm reasonably sure one of the threads on fan cooling equipment cabinets has a link to a circuit you could use to set up this sort of switching mechanism.

Thanks, what you say makes sense with respect to a 12v pulse or not enough current to power a fan.

Could use a 240V fan I suppose and one of those watt saver power boards to turn on some of the AV gear including the fan.

[Bung99]

I have found 240v fans too loud. I use 12v computer fans running off an old pc power supply with the fan removed makes it quite. If you can do a little soldering & playing get a 12v -240v relay from Jaycar & use it to turn on the power supply from the 12v trigger on the amp. It all works a treat here but if I use the Air conditioner i don't need it on at all. Just get the room Air conditioned Split system and turn the music up.

[Nevyn72]

I use a master/slave powerboard from Jaycar.

The AVR is on the master socket and an old mobile phone charger (6V) on one of the slave sockets, so it turns on whenever the AVR is on.

This charger drives a 12V computer fan which because it recieves a lower voltage turns much slower than normal and hence runs very quitely.

This is a very cheap, quiet and effective solution!

[mgrobins]

Just reviving this old thread....

I'm interested in having a few fans for my rack run off a 12v trigger so they are powered whenever my AVR is switched on (no AC out on it unfortunately).

My plan is to use a PC power supply running 12v fans. I want to have a simple 12v relay to turn the power supply on and off with my AVR.

A few questions:

will the following relay be suitable: http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?I...mp;form=KEYWORD

I'm fairly certain the switch for a PC is a momentary switch and my 12v trigger would then have to be a pulse..... anyone got some thoughts on that??

If I can find a simple solution that I can fit in a small box and have mounted properly in my rack I'd be stoked.....

PS:

I don't like the AC power strips with master/slave as I am already using a Belkin power conditioner and really don't want my AVR running through one (daisy chaining the triggered power strip off the belkin with the fans in the slave plugs just seems a wee bit perilous ).

If I could find an ac relay that operated off a current sensor clamped to a power cord that would be a good solution.... not sure if they exist though

Edited February 9, 2009 by mgrobins

[Bung99]

mgrobins

I can't help with your question but I used the 12v to switch the 240v on in the pc power supply using this unit .

http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?I...mp;SUBCATID=754

I mounted this on a bit of circuit board in a plastic case with the 12v & 240v coming into the box then the 240 going to the old PC power supply. I now have 2 of these units one in the HT and one for the separate Stereo.

[glennb]

The PC PSU's can be turned on by shorting out the green and any black cable in the main 20 or 24 pin cable to the mobo.

I can't remember if this is mometary or needs to be shorted to keep it running though.

Either way, that Jaycar 12V relay looks like it will do the job when paired with the right type of switch.

[JenX3]

but running a whole pc powersupply just to drive some fans is way overkill!

you would be tons better off just to get a 12 plug pack - or if you need lots of current, a 12v halogen power transformer pack

all of $20 or so, less heat, smaller, easier to wire, etc

Halogen transformer modules are at all lighting shops and places like jaycar

(be sure you get the dc version - the 150watt description lists dc versions for both units)

examples:

http://www.altronics.com.au/index.asp?area=item&id=X2100

from a lighting shop: http://lightingpro.com.au/catalog/product_...;products_id=72

or just grab a

http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=MP3026 (1amp = 120w will drive quite a few pc case style fans )

just keeping it simple

jen

edit - replaced the jaycar module with a better solution from altronics

Edited February 10, 2009 by jenx

[glennb]

Good point Jen, i'd forgotten about them.

Any left over DC adapter (phone charger, camera charger, etc) will have the voltage and current outputs stated on the back of them. I quick look in my work draw has 3 giving between 5V and 18V DC. Just check that the fan current is lower than the output of the adapter.

Any of these hooked up to the fan will work and be cheap.

[petermanaena]

I'm looking to put a 12V fan into the rear of my cabinet to assist in keeping my power amp cool (the cabinet is enclosed) and have 2 questions.

1) Can I plug the 12V fan directly into the 12V trigger "out" of the amp to provide automation. I have the 12V trigger active from my AVR.

2) Do you have the fan drawing warm air out, or blowing cool air in? The cabinet is closed with a door at the front. I have drilled additional (9) holes in the side of the cabinet and there is cable access at the rear. Not sure best way to go.

cheers

TB

Hi there,

I had the same problem with a custom built cabinet (I designed and had a cabinet maker build) and probably too many hard drives. I installed an exhaust fan in the wall to the outside but it is very noisy, my solution was to buy 4 laptop cooling pads ($24.00@) that are usb powered, a 4 port usb hub which is 240 volts, the system keeps my receiver nice and cool (blowing on the receiver) and is very quiet. I have also cut holes in some of the shelves and my next project will be to cut a hole in the opposite wall (plaster to internal stairwell) of the cabinet for airflow. I am also thinking of replacing the solid shelves with sliding shelving with some sort of mesh which will stop stale air getting trapped between the equipment. The equipment area of the cabinet has no back with 120mm of space but all my problems are caused by the lack of airflow through the front. I allowed for 10mm under the cabinet but didnt allow for the carpet. I also had three holes cut on the top for venting and cables (can use those computer cable plugs to close if need be) but still need airflow so hopefully the new vent will do the trick.

goodluck,

Peter

Hobart

Edited February 12, 2009 by petermanaena

[JenX3]

Just another thought...

if you use a plugpack style power supply (always plugged in) then

you could use one of the pc "smart fans" (built-in temp control) rather than worry about tying into the 12v trigger.

That way you only get fan when you need it and only as much as you need (keep it quiet)

For example the antec smart cool (I'd use the "plus" version and put the sensor somewhere the heat gathers in the cabinet)

specs at http://www.antec.com/pdf/flyers/SmartCool.pdf

or thermaltake

http://www.thermaltake.com.au/Products/Acc...tCaseFanII.aspx (these are only $29 at my local shop and come with both manual controler and a sensor for automatic speed control)

just another idea to float...

jen