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Posted

I am trying to optimize the speakers using the Yamaha setup procedure.

In the manual it states that the crossover frequency of the subwoofer should be set to the max.

I have an older model Richter Thor Mark II sub and unfortunately lost a manual.

On the back of the sub there is a knob that says "Bass Roll off frequency" with the dial ranging from 50 to 150.

Does Yamaha setup wants me to turn it all the way to 150 or 50?

Also there is a switch "Crossover By Pass" on the back of the sub. Should I set it on or off?

Any help would be much appreciated

Cheers

PS there is also a switch "Video" "Music" and "Ultra" that I have no idea what it does on the back of the sub... but my guess was that wasn't important.

Posted
I am trying to optimize the speakers using the Yamaha setup procedure.

In the manual it states that the crossover frequency of the subwoofer should be set to the max.

I have an older model Richter Thor Mark II sub and unfortunately lost a manual.

On the back of the sub there is a knob that says "Bass Roll off frequency" with the dial ranging from 50 to 150.

Does Yamaha setup wants me to turn it all the way to 150 or 50?

Also there is a switch "Crossover By Pass" on the back of the sub. Should I set it on or off?

Any help would be much appreciated

Cheers

PS there is also a switch "Video" "Music" and "Ultra" that I have no idea what it does on the back of the sub... but my guess was that wasn't important.

Hi BigA1

What I am saying below is assuming you have the sub connected via the LFE output on the amp (not via passthrough of your main speaker wires).

Whilst I don't have the reciever yet, from my reading of the instruction manual, the Yammie wants to hear your sub with no interference so that "it" can decide your crossover .... so from what you have described I would say yes, turn the "Roll off Frequency" all the way up to 150, then the Yam can listen and decide the best spot to set the crossover .... once it has done this it wont matter what your sub is set to 150 as only the frequency set by the Yam will be passed through to it anyway. ..

Oops ... just read about your "crossover bypass" given you have one, switch it on and then it doesn't matter two hoots what the sub crossover is set at.

I don't know about the music etc settings ... never seen this on a sub, but mine has a 5 band graphic equalizer for fine tuning in problem rooms, so I would guess it is something similar with presets for the names types of outputs.

I have read a couple of review about the 3800 that comment that YPAO sets the sub crossover too high - they claimed to be able to hear this and adjusted the crossover manually on the Yam.

Cheers

Chops

Posted

I know my 3800 like to set the sub at 160hz and my mains as small??

Which I really don't mind for movies,but then I run my mains full range with music via HT by-pass on my pre.

There I have my sub crossed at 70hz with a 24 db roll off.

But yes I think the 160hz the Yamm chose is a bit high for my 18" subs overall.

Posted

Thanks a lot guys...

I honestly miss those days when setup was simple and there was no GUI to speak off...

Oh well, guess I got to get on with the technology!

Cheers!

Posted

Just ran the automated set up and it assigned my front speakers (Tannoy MX3 Floor Standing) to be Small and the rear smaller Tannoy to be Large.

Should I be alarmed and do the manual setup?

Posted
Just ran the automated set up and it assigned my front speakers (Tannoy MX3 Floor Standing) to be Small and the rear smaller Tannoy to be Large.

Should I be alarmed and do the manual setup?

Not to sound like a teacher, but was the room completely quiet at the time and you are sure you haven't swapped the front and rear wires? (Yes you can call me names for suggesting this - but sometimes it's the simplest things).

I'd run it again and if it get it wrong just manually override the bit it got wrong. I don't own an SPL meter, but given some reviews I have pretty much decided to do what you are doing and give the 3800 a chance to set it up right, then check it with an SPL meter (Dick Smith have them for around $50). I'm not going to be surprised if the YPAO is *that* terrific.

Lets us know how you get on though.

Posted

This is what i have done ( yammy 1800).

in the gui, set the following:

Set all speaker to small.

set subwoofer to SUB only.

set crossover to 80hz(on the gui) and set your sub to 150hz(I have richter odin sub, set to 150hz as well).

Now go auto setup.

Then in menu, "skip" speaker setting, this will leave your speaker sizes as you chose, and click enter to start the auto process.

That should give you a good start, from there on, you can adjust and play with it as you please.

Posted

Yeah, the room was absolute quiet, the wife was told to keep it quiet for just 5 min!

The wires were swapped from the previous AV AMP and it was set correct, during the test phase it is checking all the right speakers, perhaps maybe just my speakers?

With the sub, do you just leave it at 150hz after the setup is complete? As per previous suggestion I just by-passed the crossover.

Thanks a lot guys, that gives plenty of ideas to play with it.

Posted

Hi BigA1

FWIW I reckon YPAO is terrible. To be honest i have never ben entirely convinced with any auto setup i have run from any manufacturer...

Sure they are generally a step in the right direction and should be an improvement from the out of the box settings but you can do sooo much better.

Check out this thread and follow the instructions contained within to be on your way to audio bliss ;)

Posted
With the sub, do you just leave it at 150hz after the setup is complete? As per previous suggestion I just by-passed the crossover.

If you have flicked the crossover bypass switch then the dial shouldn't mean a thing (not sure I believe all such things though ... sometimes switches do nothing at all!). As the amp is setting/controlling what signal it send through the LFE output leaving your subs settings above that is the safest idea (even if it's at max 150, it's still only getting what the amp sends it 80-110 at a guess) .... as I said, I dont trust switches 100% and they can get flicked when you are not looking, so it's not a bad idea to to have the sub set at the right level anyway. If the switch did get flicked and you had the sub set lower than what the amp puts out then you would be losing a significant part of the LFE spectrum, especially if the bass is set to LFE only (as opped to LFE + Mains) .... wont do any damage but I imagine it would sound pretty weird.

Yampro's link is a good one, but don't feel you have to become an expert in one day .... it's more fun being able to tinker and make incremental improvements over a longer time (well for me it is .... that's why I'm looking forward to those memory settings the 3800 has!)

Posted

Had another little quirk whilst setting the 3800 with my Pio 610 DVD player that I use to play back SACD.

I set the pioneer to output DSD stream over HDMI.

When TV is on, Pio upscales 1080i and DSD is being transmitted, however the next time when I turned Pio on and tried to play the same SACD, it only output PCM stream and on the Pio display it showed 480p, so I figured it had something to do with the way it outputs video as well.

I set my Pio at Auto (DSD) regime, so I am not sure if I need to tweak anything on the 3800?

Had anyone come across anything like that in their travel?

Cheers

Posted
Had another little quirk whilst setting the 3800 with my Pio 610 DVD player that I use to play back SACD.

I set the pioneer to output DSD stream over HDMI.

When TV is on, Pio upscales 1080i and DSD is being transmitted, however the next time when I turned Pio on and tried to play the same SACD, it only output PCM stream and on the Pio display it showed 480p, so I figured it had something to do with the way it outputs video as well.

I set my Pio at Auto (DSD) regime, so I am not sure if I need to tweak anything on the 3800?

Had anyone come across anything like that in their travel?

Cheers

I think I may have found a reason by searching elsewhere on this forum, just in case if anyone else is having the same issue.

"...This is because of HDMI - it sets up essentially an authentication chain from source, through AVR and to display, and this chain must be intact in order to satisfy the DRM/HDCP stuff built into HDMI..."

Does this make sense?

Cheers

Posted
I think I may have found a reason by searching elsewhere on this forum, just in case if anyone else is having the same issue.

"...This is because of HDMI - it sets up essentially an authentication chain from source, through AVR and to display, and this chain must be intact in order to satisfy the DRM/HDCP stuff built into HDMI..."

Does this make sense?

Cheers

Well yes it makes sense as to what you experienced, and I guess it means you have to0 have the display on for SACD to work?? Silly anti-copy systems - if you were going to coy it you'd rip it in a PC anyway.

Posted (edited)
Well yes it makes sense as to what you experienced, and I guess it means you have to0 have the display on for SACD to work?? Silly anti-copy systems - if you were going to coy it you'd rip it in a PC anyway.

SACD still works when the Plasma is off, the only difference it outputs PCM rather than DSD over HDMI. Not a great deal of difference, I just read somewhere that you get the best results from your SACD if you can output DSD to your receiver.

Once the handshake is established, I can turn-off the plasma and enjoy various SACDs, but once the SACD player is off, then the whole procedure has to be repeated again to achieve DSD output.

Not a great deal, I just thought it was rather peculiar...

Cheers

Edited by BigA1
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