New Ht, Open To Suggestions

[yamapro]

When I mentioned the weight, it was in the context of lifting the soundchek into position because it was heavy (even when using a panel lifter, it's awkward). I wasn't refering to the capacity of the ceiling structures to hold the weight.

Heheheh - that's why you get Gyprockers to do it It's really not that bad when you know how to lift and do it day in day out.

FWIW you may find this link handy also Jmos :CSR HT Brochure

I wasn't aware 13mm soundcheck was available in Perth? I used 10mm soundchek layered to an existing 10mm gyprock ceiling. I think green glue is the key to this because the glue attenuates the sound transmission between the sheets (whereas the blue glue/screw method doesn't).

Edit: I would save money, don't put in the soundscreen batts; instead use something else (I like those sealed Brett Heady batts) and put the price difference towards the green glue. 2 layers of soundchek and soundscreen in a home ceiling is an overkill I reckon.

I have never heard of the acrylic glue or screws being troublesome for accoustic transmission... they are the specified way of installing even soundcheck systems so i wouldn't worry to much about expensive green glue myself. We've built several 'cone of silence' type rooms and all have worked really well utilising standard fixings and fasteners.

Agree that soundscreen batts over double layer soundcheck board may be overkill - but i'd still do it myself as the price difference isn't that great..especially over the period of time you plan to stay in a home

Just my 2cents though

[yamapro]

I guess that unlucky person would be me, trying to save wherever I can. Iv'e never used the Rockwool before, interesting product spun from molton basalt and limestone pretty awful stuff is it ? I guess thats a similar reason why I'm going for polyester batts instead of fibreglass.

I didn't know about the polyester acoustic batts will look into it.

Thanks again.

Fair enuff

it's pretty awful to handle yes! Think fibreglass on steroids...personally i just won't touch the stuff.

Best of luck again anyway mate... feel free to PM me if i can help with anything else.

[IndyJnr]

Hey Beejay,

Where can you buy green glue from here in Aus or anywhere in Vic?

Cheers

[c912039]

Hey Beejay,

Where can you buy green glue from here in Aus or anywhere in Vic?

Cheers

http://www.ultrafonic.com.au, but be ready for a shock on how much it is going to cost you! Expect to have to pay around $1500 - $2000 for the glue to properly treat a typical HT room.

I believe, that if you are not concerned with sound 'leaking' from your HT room into other parts of the hosue, you would be bettter off spending the $1500-$2000 on extra acoustic treatments, instead of Green Glue.

You will definately hear an improvement to your sound IN your HT room, if you spend more money on acoustic treatments inside the room.

You will only hear a benefit (or lack of noise) OUTSIDE the HT room, if you spend the money on Green Glue.

Regards

David

[Thudd1503560234]

When I did mine I tried to find the best compromise between decent treatment and not blowing out the budget. I'm a bit lucky I suppose in that there's quite a distance between the HT and the neighbours, and there's no children in the house trying to sleep at night, so total sound blockage wasn't a necessity.

I went with the 13mm boral soundstop - yes, it's available in Perth - but just used one layer on the walls and ceiling. And I didn't use green glue either. I looked at it, but the price was prohibitive.

Wall and ceiling insulation is acoustically rated poly batts; I think they're R3 from memory. Available in Bunnings too. Easy to work with, but a total bastard if you forget something and need to drill through afterwards.

Solid core doors with raven storm weatherstrips on the outside door and a drop down seal on the internal one. I considered using double glazing on the sole window but in the end cost won out and I just used some thicker glass with UV security film; it'll be covered by mega-thick drapes though which are capable of blocking out 100% of the light even in the middle of the day.

I prewired up the wazoo, both for a TV and a projector. One thing I didn't do was run dual sets of speaker cable to each location for bi-amping: it's not the house where I'll spend the rest of my days and I doubt that I'd get round to buying enough amps, getting an active crossover, setting it all up etc before it's time to move on. So a bit sucky for the next owner if that's what they want but it saved buying another 50m or so of speaker cable. In your case though I would definitely do it. The other thing I didn't do was run cable out to external locations for running other TVs elsewhere in the house. I put an aerial plug out on the deck and in the kitchen but deliberately didn't run some component or hdmi to them. This is because I want the HT room for HT, and the rest of the house is for living. If you want to watch movies, you watch them in the HT room, not in the kitchen. I'll put a TV in the kitchen so I can watch the news, sport, or whatever else is on while I'm in there, but I won't be piping movies through to it, nor to the deck. There's a second hifi system in the main house that plays into the kitchen so I didn't prewire that up as a second zone to be controlled from the HT. But all of these things that I didn't do you might decide are worthwhile: biamping and multizone audio/visual from the main HT.

[jmos1503559753]

When I did mine I tried to find the best compromise between decent treatment and not blowing out the budget. I'm a bit lucky I suppose in that there's quite a distance between the HT and the neighbours, and there's no children in the house trying to sleep at night, so total sound blockage wasn't a necessity.

I went with the 13mm boral soundstop - yes, it's available in Perth - but just used one layer on the walls and ceiling. And I didn't use green glue either. I looked at it, but the price was prohibitive.

Wall and ceiling insulation is acoustically rated poly batts; I think they're R3 from memory. Available in Bunnings too. Easy to work with, but a total bastard if you forget something and need to drill through afterwards.

Solid core doors with raven storm weatherstrips on the outside door and a drop down seal on the internal one. I considered using double glazing on the sole window but in the end cost won out and I just used some thicker glass with UV security film; it'll be covered by mega-thick drapes though which are capable of blocking out 100% of the light even in the middle of the day.

I prewired up the wazoo, both for a TV and a projector. One thing I didn't do was run dual sets of speaker cable to each location for bi-amping: it's not the house where I'll spend the rest of my days and I doubt that I'd get round to buying enough amps, getting an active crossover, setting it all up etc before it's time to move on. So a bit sucky for the next owner if that's what they want but it saved buying another 50m or so of speaker cable. In your case though I would definitely do it. The other thing I didn't do was run cable out to external locations for running other TVs elsewhere in the house. I put an aerial plug out on the deck and in the kitchen but deliberately didn't run some component or hdmi to them. This is because I want the HT room for HT, and the rest of the house is for living. If you want to watch movies, you watch them in the HT room, not in the kitchen. I'll put a TV in the kitchen so I can watch the news, sport, or whatever else is on while I'm in there, but I won't be piping movies through to it, nor to the deck. There's a second hifi system in the main house that plays into the kitchen so I didn't prewire that up as a second zone to be controlled from the HT. But all of these things that I didn't do you might decide are worthwhile: biamping and multizone audio/visual from the main HT.

Thanks Thudd, I have to admit I havn't looked into bi-amping but may well do in the future. I'll be running all wiring through conduit and with the recess for my components positioned where it is it will be easy to add any future wiring. I will run some extra wiring to connect the HT to the study and perhaps the alfresco for multi-zoning. Thanks very much for your comments.