New Ht, Open To Suggestions

[jmos1503559753]

Hello everyone, I have been viewing this forum for quite a while, I think its great. Spent many hours searching for different suggestions

on building a new HT. Well my wife and I are building what I hope to be our final home with a HT.

I have read up on cable requirements(for now and future), insulation(sound proofing and sound control) and alot of other good stuff but welcome any suggestions that relate to our particular HT room.

The dimensions are 6.5mx4.5mx2.7m with a 300mm recessed ceiling and the house is of double brick construction.

The adjoining rooms are main corridor 2m wide, family/dining/kitchen, walk in robe to M bed.

On a 1 acre block but HT room is approx 20m from neighbours house.

Ceiling will have 13mm souncheck plasterboard,rockwool and r3 polyester batts, walls will either remain as they are(hardwall plaster) or considering building a separate stud wall with 13mm souncheck PB and rockwool.

Probably shouldn't have put in windows but considering outside shutters, doors will be solid core with seals.

The recess in the wall will be where all my components will go.

I will be setting the room up so I can setup either a projector or large TV. Haven't purchased any HT gear yet.

I have attached a link to a post with some images and would really appreciate any comments.

http://www.dtvforum.info/index.php?showtopic=48614

http://www.dtvforum.info/index.php?act=att...ost&id=2976

http://www.dtvforum.info/index.php?act=att...ost&id=2977

http://www.dtvforum.info/index.php?act=att...ost&id=2978

[physim]

Some idea on your budget might help to narrow down suggestions. Also are you more inclined to watch videos or listen to music?

[wheresbaz]

Hi Jmos,

In a room like that IMO why would you even consider a tv. Projectors these days are so good you will be able to have a 100in 16:9 screen no probs. Depending on your budget but 2k projector will surprise how good the PQ is. You need decide what your budget is and make all the components of equal quality. If you buy a top notch projector and use a cheap dvd player or great speakers and buy a cheap amp you are wasting money. Just my opinion.

cheers Bill

[jmos1503559753]

Some idea on your budget might help to narrow down suggestions. Also are you more inclined to watch videos or listen to music?

Gday physim, the room will be used for approx 70% movies 20% music 10% gaming.

I won't know the final budget until I finish the house but estimate approx $2500 receiver, $5000 to $7000 7.1 speaker package, $3500 projector.

As far as the room goes I would spend as much to insulate as described in my first post plus some doityourself acoustic wall frames ?

[jmos1503559753]

Hi Jmos,

In a room like that IMO why would you even consider a tv. Projectors these days are so good you will be able to have a 100in 16:9 screen no probs. Depending on your budget but 2k projector will surprise how good the PQ is. You need decide what your budget is and make all the components of equal quality. If you buy a top notch projector and use a cheap dvd player or great speakers and buy a cheap amp you are wasting money. Just my opinion.

cheers Bill

Thanks Bill, I probably will be buy a projector. Probably won't start buying gear until early next year, makes me wander waht will be avail than the way projector technology and affordability is going

[yamapro]

Hi JMOS - good luck with the HT and Lucky you for building with a dedicated room

Which state are you in? If we can work out who is near you those members may be a great resource to you (there is a really good feeling of comradery round here)...

One other quick point (and i don't mean to be pedantic)- did you mean fibreglass (as in Pink batts, Fatt Batts etc..)insulation when you mention Rockwall? I just ask as it's pretty rare to see rockwall installed in anything these days and don't know why one would specify it (especially as you're using poly batts in the ceilng)... if you're installing it yourself i can't recommend poly batts throughout highly enough! It's sooo much more user friendly than fibreglass and i won't even start on rockwool!!!

Otherwise some ideas on your goals and budget would be helpful for people to give you useful advice.

To get you rolling however i will throw a couple of ideas your way though.

1) Defo think PJ as it will leave all other screen types for dead, and you could even incorporate it into your bulkhead

2) Think IB subs for a dedicated room and a custom build it will give you the best bass response by far and as you plan to stay there for a long time offers great value for money (kinda hard to move if you ever do though!)

3) Pre-wire for 7.1 sound even if you don't use it initially. Also think HDMI cable runs as well as component video and at least stereo RCA... also consider running speaker cabkeas a minimum to other rooms or outdoorareas you may wish to have sound... much easier to do it now

Hope that helps a little

Cheers,

Alex

EDIT

Just saw your last post... if waiting till next year then you'll do well, next gen receivers should be out by then offering more features at lower prices than ever before, 1080P PJs should be cheaper and 720p machines an absolute steal by then too! And we may even know which HD format will be the market leader by then so you can hold off on buying into a potential 'dud'!

[wheresbaz]

Thanks Bill, I probably will be buy a projector. Probably won't start buying gear until early next year, makes me wander waht will be avail than the way projector technology and affordability is going

With your budget you will have a great home theatre. Sounds like you have the mix about right to me. Dollar wise in relation to each component. You haven't mentioned your budget for sources i.e. set top box or dvd player. To match your projector and reciever/speakers the sources need to be just as good. The only thing I regret buying in my HT is a cheap set top box. But that will be going into bedroom and I will buy a Toppy when I have the moola.

Cheers Bill

[jmos1503559753]

Hi JMOS - good luck with the HT and Lucky you for building with a dedicated room

Which state are you in? If we can work out who is near you those members may be a great resource to you (there is a really good feeling of comradery round here)...

One other quick point (and i don't mean to be pedantic)- did you mean fibreglass (as in Pink batts, Fatt Batts etc..)insulation when you mention Rockwall? I just ask as it's pretty rare to see rockwall installed in anything these days and don't know why one would specify it (especially as you're using poly batts in the ceilng)... if you're installing it yourself i can't recommend poly batts throughout highly enough! It's sooo much more user friendly than fibreglass and i won't even start on rockwool!!!

Otherwise some ideas on your goals and budget would be helpful for people to give you useful advice.

To get you rolling however i will throw a couple of ideas your way though.

1) Defo think PJ as it will leave all other screen types for dead, and you could even incorporate it into your bulkhead

2) Think IB subs for a dedicated room and a custom build it will give you the best bass response by far and as you plan to stay there for a long time offers great value for money (kinda hard to move if you ever do though!)

3) Pre-wire for 7.1 sound even if you don't use it initially. Also think HDMI cable runs as well as component video and at least stereo RCA... also consider running speaker cabkeas a minimum to other rooms or outdoorareas you may wish to have sound... much easier to do it now

Hope that helps a little

Cheers,

Alex

EDIT

Just saw your last post... if waiting till next year then you'll do well, next gen receivers should be out by then offering more features at lower prices than ever before, 1080P PJs should be cheaper and 720p machines an absolute steal by then too! And we may even know which HD format will be the market leader by then so you can hold off on buying into a potential 'dud'!

Gday Yamapro, thanks for your comments, we are building in Leschenault approx 160km south of perth, the rockwool insulation is a semi solid type from CSR,

recomended by a plasterer ?

http://www.bradfordinsulation.com.au/commo...p;cookie_test=1

You are right the polyester batts are a heck of alot easier to work with than fibreglass, no scratching.

[jmos1503559753]

With your budget you will have a great home theatre. Sounds like you have the mix about right to me. Dollar wise in relation to each component. You haven't mentioned your budget for sources i.e. set top box or dvd player. To match your projector and reciever/speakers the sources need to be just as good. The only thing I regret buying in my HT is a cheap set top box. But that will be going into bedroom and I will buy a Toppy when I have the moola.

Cheers Bill

Gee its so easy to forget and so easy to spend alot of money, thanks Bill, I will match sources to receiver/speakers, may take a little saving in between.

[brodricj]

Ceiling will have 13mm souncheck plasterboard,rockwool and r3 polyester batts,

Make sure you use "green glue" to bond the soundcheck to the ceiling, not the Gyprock blue acrylic glue. 13mm soundchek is very heavy, plasterer's will charge you a premium for this, 10mm soundchek is all you need with green glue. Use appropriate acoustic treatments on the ceiling, eg RPG Skylines (but these are expensive).

walls will either remain as they are(hardwall plaster) or considering building a separate stud wall with 13mm souncheck PB and rockwool.

Keep them as hardwall, but apply appropriate acoustic and decorative treatments.

Edit: just saw your pics, didn't realize you used Midland "fastwalls" for the HT construction. You will need to drywall the inside of the theater with soundchek. You can A. direct stick with masonry adhesive, or B. fasten c-sections to the wall and then fix the soundcheck with green glue and screws. You will get better acoustic performance with B. plus you can run the cable conduits in the cavity between the soundchek and fastwalls (no need to chase into the bricks, more flexible as well).

p.s. No need to hardwall plaster these internal walls, save yourself time and money and go straight for the soundchek option.

Probably shouldn't have put in windows but considering outside shutters,

Shutters will do nothing for stopping the noise get out, but they will stop light from getting in. If you want to stop the noise getting out through your windows, use magnetite with a 100mm airgap. Polycarbonate is better than magnetite (various tints are available, stops UV), but it is twice the price.

doors will be solid core with seals.

Make sure you laminate a sheet of 10mm MDF to the inside of the door, using green glue. Also use a drop down seal against a threshold plate to stop noise leakage under the door.

The recess in the wall will be where all my components will go.

I will be setting the room up so I can setup either a projector or large TV. Haven't purchased any HT gear yet.

Make sure the recess is large enough to fit a 45RU rack, and put your gear in the rack. With good light control, go for the projector option!!

[physim]

With your budget you will have a fair bit of choice.

Best thing to do is to go to the HiFi shops and demo the gear in your price range and see what you like best.

In Bunbury there is West Coast HiFi (I think) and they aare pretty good.

Up in Perth you have Frank Prowse in Mosman Park who I have bought from and were very good and helpful

Vince Ross in Nedlands

Surround Sound in Nedlands

Simply Hi Fi in Subiaco

Various Harvey Norman stores and JB HiFi stores who may not give as good advioce or demo rooms but can be cheaper

My advice is visit them talk to them and have a liusten and look at the systems they have and then pick the components you like best to suit your ear and budget.

Rememebr to take your house plans along as they can then see what they are working with in terms of space.

Good Luck

[quijibo]

There seems to be a general consensus that you are budgeting your equipment correctly, and you probably are doing it sensibly.

But frankly I would do things a little differently. As I find that probably 75% of the cinema experience is the picture, and probably more for most people like my wife who only care to hear the dialog clearly and hate all the sound effects.

With that sort of money and a 70% home cinema usage I would be tempted to spend a little more on the projector and go for the JVC HD1. Have a read through the Projector section on here as to why. Don't forget a good screen can cost up to a few thousand dollars, but decent ones are around for under $500. The only downside to spending big on projectors is that in 2 years time a similar projector will be half the price, and you will need to upgrade it in about 4 years as they are essentially a throw away item.

I know spending money on speakers is like putting it in the bank as they are one component that could stay in your theatre for 20 years before they need an upgrade, but as you will mostly use them for cinema usage I personally wouldn't necessarily spend that much unless you had a tree out the back to pull money from.

I'm glad to hear you wont be buying until next year anyway as the next generation AVRs will flood the market then.

[marcusd1503561159]

If you plan on having ducted aircon, try to get a return air duct in the HT room at the front with cool air entering at back of room. With no return air duct the HT room air pessure will build up and start to whistle.

Pay particular attention to soundproofing of the duct work in the HT room, no point in having soundcheck and then letting the sound escape via the aircon into all other areas of the house. If this all sounds too hard go for a split system.

If your not going to stud and sheet the interior walls don't forget to chase in some conduit for the back and side speakers and sub(s)

Cable for several sub locations at centre front and back and centre of each side wall. Research has shown these to be the best locations for smoothest bass response across several seating locations. (Don't forget 240V GPOs at each location)

If this is a dedicated HT/Listening room go for free-standing speakers and subs. Speakers that sound good in walls and ceilings are expensive to design and build, so a good free-standing speaker will always be cheaper than an equivalent sounding flushmount.

If you can help it don't waste good money on putting speakers into cabinetry because when you place a box inside another box the end result is bad.

So if you invest in good freestanding speakers you will get better value for your hard earned dollar and end up spending less on overcoming the short-comings of speakers installed in walls and cabinetry.

[brodricj]

If you plan on having ducted aircon, try to get a return air duct in the HT room at the front with cool air entering at back of room. With no return air duct the HT room air pessure will build up and start to whistle.

I haven't had a problem without a return air duct. I use a linear diffusor for the outlet (the air just spills out down the wall rather than be blown out at speed), and whisper duct to connect it up. I got the installer to use 250mm duct inside 300mm duct to connect it up. I reckon a slight overpressure is a good thing in the HT room to help keep dust out, away from the components. When my a/c is on, I can't hear it in the HT room. But I can hear air being sucked into the return grille, which I had located elsewhere for that reason.

[marcusd1503561159]

I haven't had a problem without a return air duct. I use a linear diffusor for the outlet (the air just spills out down the wall rather than be blown out at speed), and whisper duct to connect it up. I got the installer to use 250mm duct inside 300mm duct to connect it up. I reckon a slight overpressure is a good thing in the HT room to help keep dust out, away from the components. When my a/c is on, I can't hear it in the HT room. But I can hear air being sucked into the return grille, which I had located elsewhere for that reason.

Glad to hear your system works well beejay76 but I only mentioned it because generally if your theatre room is airtight once the room is pressurised then your aircon ducts will struggle to pump any air into your HT room.

[brodricj]

...if your theatre room is airtight once the room is pressurised then your aircon ducts will struggle to pump any air into your HT room.

Yes, so true. For air to be pumped into a room, an equal amount of air must somehow be removed from the room. My room is gas tight and only a very small amount of air comes out the diffussor, but it falls on to the seating position which is enough to make it comfortable. Also, a slightly open external window is enough to maintain a slight positive pressure in the room, and provide movement and dispersion of conditioned air around the room.

[JoshH]

Yes, so true. For air to be pumped into a room, an equal amount of air must somehow be removed from the room. My room is gas tight and only a very small amount of air comes out the diffussor, but it falls on to the seating position which is enough to make it comfortable. Also, a slightly open external window is enough to maintain a slight positive pressure in the room, and provide movement and dispersion of conditioned air around the room.

If the aircon system has been properly designed with a suitable return air then its not an issue to pump air in. Obviously there needs to be attenuators to keep the noise down.

[jmos1503559753]

Thanks to all you that responded, really appreciate the info. I want to try to get the room as well setup as I can without paying a fortune.

I've done a bit of gyprocking and have family in the trade so this will help save quite a bit on labour.

Being an owner builder I think or hope I'm getting pretty good prices on materials. I can get 13mm soundcheck for about $9.57m2 and the rockwool for about $14.22m2, I know a second stud wall would be the best option but don't really want to make the room any smaller. I can do all the work myself but don't really know how much difference a separate stud wall to souncheck stuck to the existing brick would be.

I will take all your advice onboard and let you know how things go.

Thanks again

[yamapro]

Jmos, if the labour is free or cheap then I'd reccommend double layering the soundcheck gyprock on your ceiling. You only get one chance to do it and for the tiny cost of a few extra sheets of board (and there'll be no more flushing) it is well worth doing as it will cut down acoustic transmission considerably

[jmos1503559753]

Jmos, if the labour is free or cheap then I'd reccommend double layering the soundcheck gyprock on your ceiling. You only get one chance to do it and for the tiny cost of a few extra sheets of board (and there'll be no more flushing) it is well worth doing as it will cut down acoustic transmission considerably

Thanks yamapro, I remember a someone talking about the extra weight but I can grout?(strips of fibreglass dipped in plaster over ceiling joists) the whole ceiling to give it extra holding strength

[yamapro]

There sould be no need Jmos, just screw and glue the first layer and then fully screw the second layer to CSR spec with 41mm screws - that's what we use when constructing double layer 16mm fire rated ceilings (without the acrylic glue though of course!) and you could just about jump on those things from above without bringing them down!

[jmos1503559753]

There sould be no need Jmos, just screw and glue the first layer and then fully screw the second layer to CSR spec with 41mm screws - that's what we use when constructing double layer 16mm fire rated ceilings (without the acrylic glue though of course!) and you could just about jump on those things from above without bringing them down!

So if I go with 2 layers of soundcheck do you think I should still use the rockwool in the ceiling or will the R3 or R3.5 polyester batts be enough ? which is what I'm using for the whole house ceiling.

[yamapro]

Well there's no harm using the RW soundscreen batts (except to whoever is unlucky enough to install it! Yuck!)

However are you aware that acoustic batts (and blankets for that matter) are available in poly as well? If it were my place i would be using those; double layer 13mm ceiling and polyacoustic batts in walls (although you don't seem to have many cavity walls to worry about )and ceiling.

[brodricj]

Thanks yamapro, I remember a someone talking about the extra weight but I can grout?(strips of fibreglass dipped in plaster over ceiling joists) the whole ceiling to give it extra holding strength

When I mentioned the weight, it was in the context of lifting the soundchek into position because it was heavy (even when using a panel lifter, it's awkward). I wasn't refering to the capacity of the ceiling structures to hold the weight.

I wasn't aware 13mm soundcheck was available in Perth? I used 10mm soundchek layered to an existing 10mm gyprock ceiling. I think green glue is the key to this because the glue attenuates the sound transmission between the sheets (whereas the blue glue/screw method doesn't).

Edit: I would save money, don't put in the soundscreen batts; instead use something else (I like those sealed Brett Heady batts) and put the price difference towards the green glue. 2 layers of soundchek and soundscreen in a home ceiling is an overkill I reckon.

[jmos1503559753]

Well there's no harm using the RW soundscreen batts (except to whoever is unlucky enough to install it! Yuck!)

However are you aware that acoustic batts (and blankets for that matter) are available in poly as well? If it were my place i would be using those; double layer 13mm ceiling and polyacoustic batts in walls (although you don't seem to have many cavity walls to worry about )and ceiling.

I guess that unlucky person would be me, trying to save wherever I can. Iv'e never used the Rockwool before, interesting product spun from molton basalt and limestone pretty awful stuff is it ? I guess thats a similar reason why I'm going for polyester batts instead of fibreglass.

I didn't know about the polyester acoustic batts will look into it.

Thanks again.