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Thinking of making my own scree


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Hi,

I have decided I am going to get the new Sony Pj whan it arrives and am thinking of making my own screen.

Now I know there are a million options out there :blink:

But I have been looking on AVS forum and all the different paints they use, but it's in the states. I was wondering if anyone has tried any of these screens and what they used.

For example silver metallic base with misty evening topcoat :P

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Hi Farbs

Just finishing off my screen at the moment.

I hope to finish the velvetine border tomorrow night.

Just used Triple coated white blockout fabric for the material and I think it is fine.

I do not think it is a very high gain screen but I am happy with the pic.

All up it has cost about $400 for a fixed 100 inch 16.9 screen.

J

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I would recommend trying the Goo and just painting some kind of flat board.

That way you will avoid having to tension material and fixing your velvetine border will be easy.

I think in hindsight I should have tried that first!

Good luck with whichever way you go :blink:

J

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Yeah, timber frame with a routed recess to accept rubber spline for holding the material under tension.

If you are going to use a timber frame, use hardwood.

I used pine but it's not as strong as I would like it to be so I can't give it heaps of tension otherwise it bows slightly.

Just starting to glue my last piece of velvetine now!

Back to it :blink:

EDIT - If anyone wants to go the timber frame approach, please pm me so I can let you know the pitfalls and how I would overcome them if I was to do it over again.

J

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Yeah, timber frame with a routed recess to accept rubber spline for holding the material under tension.[...]
Interesting... that was the approach I was going to use. Even though I have read a few DIY screen methods, I had not actually seen that one mentioned before.
EDIT - If anyone wants to go the timber frame approach, please pm me so I can let you know the pitfalls and how I would overcome them if I was to do it over again.
To save you a lot of PMs, would it be too much trouble for you to post here, so everyone can see?
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Righto I will keep an eye on this thread for queries.

Here's a few suggestions:

1 - The most important thing is to only router a 5mm wide channel in the back of the frame.

I went for 7mm, thinking that I had the thickness of the fabric to consider.

Whoopsie, too wide. so I have had to use expensive continuous 'occy strap' elastic instead of cheap spline.

If I had gone 5mm channel I could have used a 4mm, a 5mm or a 6mm spline (to suit material) as these are the common thicknesses available. Du oh! :blink:

At least the 8mm depth was spot on :P .

2 - Use wood 65mm x 35mm or close to that for strength. I went a little thin at 22mm x 65mm!

3 - Iron the Blockout material before tensioning as this makes tensioning easier. Iron the canvas (rough) side.

4 - Tensioning the material is a 2 person job. You can do it on your own but it takes 4 times as long!!

Could have saved $50 getting the channel right!

Hope this is helpful.

J

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1 - The most important thing is to only router a 5mm wide channel in the back of the frame.

[...]

2 - Use wood 65mm x 35mm or close to that for strength. I went a little thin at 22mm x 65mm!

[...]

3 - Iron the Blockout material before tensioning as this makes tensioning easier. Iron the canvas (rough) side.

Thanks, good stuff. Had not thought of the ironing! Did you use a centre brace on the long side?

How is the velveteen attached?

I presume the cloth wraps around the timber, so that the timber is at the back, and not exposed?

Did you make the screen before getting the projector? That is, is it "safe" to make the screen first, based on 16:9 ratio, before seeing the actual image the projector makes?

Not sure how it came to cost $400. based on my guesstimates on Bunning's and Spotlight prices, I had figured about $110. So I wonder what I have missed!

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I had a cabinet maker make my frame as I did not have the tools.

So that it was square etc too.

I have 2 braces on the long edge and yes the material wraps around the wood and is tucked in the back.

Ordered and briefed the cabinet maker before I had the projector.

You will need nearly $100 dollars worth of wood for a frame anyway.

I would say approx $100 for wood, $70 for the triple coated blockout, $40 for the velvetine, $10 for spline, $10 for some good acetone based craft glue and lots of time.

The velvetine is under tension and it is glued at the back to stop it flapping around.

You could cut a piece of mdf to the finished size, paint with goo or wrap with blockout material and then apply the velvetine.

This would be an easier to construct screen but may not be as flat/sturdy.

I think I forgot to mention, it's more work than you think!!

J

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I made a frame for mine out of mdf skirting and painted it flat black. Looks excellent. I'd say the hardest part of the project was getting the frame perfectly square. Worth the effort though when you compare the price of bought ones.

Saw an excellent post somewhere with a very good method of attaching to the wall. basically tou make a "cleat" (a piece of wood cut at 45 degrees along the long edge). You attach the \_ face to the wall and then the opposing angle to the frame. Makes it very stable and you can adjust the position on the wall.

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just a few pointers that I can give as I learned the hardway...

make sure you fully brace the frame. I used pine and it bends inwards! I put two bars for bracing vertically and thats fine but you need some for the horizontal too. Now I have to unstaple the two short sides, put horizontal bracing and then put a black frame to cover the staple holes which will show on the front now... :blink:

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

GOO systems aus distributors: AVHOUSE 2 Clay Court

Blackburn South VIC 3130. www.avhouse.com.au

They have two very large goo screens set up with a virtuoso HD2+ projector for demo.

I was over there about 1 year ago to check out the goo and was very impressed with over all colour and vibrancy of the CRT white.

Comments about using the grey goo with the HS50 - totally uneccesarry. The black level of the HS50 is amongst the best you will get, so using gray would only muddy the whites for no good reason.

I think a kit to do 100" cotst about 300 bucks - everything u need to roll is there.

From expereience and my reading, a single large sheet of MDF mounted to the wall with eye hooks into the studs works extremely well.

I painted a piece of MDF with plain ultra white cieling paint that cost 60$ and it worked a treat also, though not as bright and not as good colour as the Goo.

I will be going with an MDF GOO screen when I get my HS50 - no doubt about it.

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