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Posted

In the market for a longer pair of a speaker cables, around 5m and am considering the DIY route.

 

I am considering bi-wiring as my speakers now allow for it but am not too fussed. I am looking at the Duelund Tin-Plated Stranded Copper & Cotton / Oil.

 

Now I see people often use twisted quads of the 16AWG for longer runs and high powered amplifiers but would it preferable to use a twisted pair of a larger AWG like 12AWG.

 

The Duelund range offers 12AWG, 16AWG and 20AWG. If I were to bi-wire what AWG mix would be suited? 2x12AWG and 2x20AWG for the woofer and mid/high sections respectively. Or would it better to use 16AWG for the mid/high in the biwire mix or just a twisted quad of 16AWG for the lot and not consider a larger AWG for the woofers.

 

Or even still do I avoid bi-wire and just use a twisted pair of 12AWG which brings me back to the question regarding multiple runs of thinner AWG vs a pair of thicker AWG.

 

 

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Posted
In the market for a longer pair of a speaker cables, around 5m and am considering the DIY route.
 
I am considering bi-wiring as my speakers now allow for it but am not too fussed. I am looking at the Duelund Tin-Plated Stranded Copper & Cotton / Oil.
 
Now I see people often use twisted quads of the 16AWG for longer runs and high powered amplifiers but would it preferable to use a twisted pair of a larger AWG like 12AWG.
 
The Duelund range offers 12AWG, 16AWG and 20AWG. If I were to bi-wire what AWG mix would be suited? 2x12AWG and 2x20AWG for the woofer and mid/high sections respectively. Or would it better to use 16AWG for the mid/high in the biwire mix or just a twisted quad of 16AWG for the lot and not consider a larger AWG for the woofers.
 
Or even still do I avoid bi-wire and just use a twisted pair of 12AWG which brings me back to the question regarding multiple runs of thinner AWG vs a pair of thicker AWG.
 
 

All good questions. For what it's worth I recently bought the 12AWG and am very happy with it.
  • Like 1
Posted (edited)
51 minutes ago, kelossus said:

In the market for a longer pair of a speaker cables, around 5m and am considering the DIY route....

 

 

Music Direct have closeout special 60% discount on various lengths of AudioQuest CV-8 and Gibraltar speaker cables. I would be jumping on one of those instead of DIY. I use CV-8, it's OK.

Edited by WhakPak
  • Like 1
Posted

Fwiw I've always found better imaging with multiple runs of individually insulated thin wire than with the same cross-section of a larger gauge...

Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk

Posted
1 minute ago, Zaphod Beeblebrox said:

Just use RG213/U. If you need lower resistance, then use multiple runs. Provided you are not using a Naim amplifier, you should be fine. Cheap and VERY high performance.

 

The issue with RG213 is though it is so stiff and a pain to terminate well....if I could rewire my set up again I'd ditch it without a second thought. 

Posted
9 minutes ago, Happy said:

 

The issue with RG213 is though it is so stiff and a pain to terminate well....if I could rewire my set up again I'd ditch it without a second thought. 

 

The stiffness of RG213/U is due to the very high quality PE insulation and the thick conductors used. IOW: It's stiffness is why it sounds good. 

Posted
1 minute ago, Zaphod Beeblebrox said:

 

The stiffness of RG213/U is due to the very high quality PE insulation and the thick conductors used. IOW: It's stiffness is why it sounds good. 

 

yeah no qualms about the sonic stuff but i really don't think anyone should try it. if you're experienced and happy with a bit of DIY maybe but otherwise i wouldn't recommend it.

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Posted
Just now, Happy said:

 

yeah no qualms about the sonic stuff but i really don't think anyone should try it. if you're experienced and happy with a bit of DIY maybe but otherwise i wouldn't recommend it.

 

Well yeah, but that is what this thread is about - DIY speaker cable. For those who cannot, any competent tech can make the stuff up for you. 

  • Like 1
Posted
Just now, Zaphod Beeblebrox said:

 

Well yeah, but that is what this thread is about - DIY speaker cable. For those who cannot, any competent tech can make the stuff up for you. 

 

you're quite right, although for my own uses getting a tech involved for 4 way active system would cost quite a bit :D

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Posted
20 hours ago, kelossus said:

In the market for a longer pair of a speaker cables, around 5m and am considering the DIY route.

 

I am considering bi-wiring as my speakers now allow for it but am not too fussed. I am looking at the Duelund Tin-Plated Stranded Copper & Cotton / Oil.

 

Now I see people often use twisted quads of the 16AWG for longer runs and high powered amplifiers but would it preferable to use a twisted pair of a larger AWG like 12AWG.

 

The Duelund range offers 12AWG, 16AWG and 20AWG. If I were to bi-wire what AWG mix would be suited? 2x12AWG and 2x20AWG for the woofer and mid/high sections respectively. Or would it better to use 16AWG for the mid/high in the biwire mix or just a twisted quad of 16AWG for the lot and not consider a larger AWG for the woofers.

 

Or even still do I avoid bi-wire and just use a twisted pair of 12AWG which brings me back to the question regarding multiple runs of thinner AWG vs a pair of thicker AWG.

 

 

 

Get in touch with Geoff from Aurealis Audio cables

I see on his website he sells Deuland cables in different AWGs

I'm sure he can give you advice on the correct cables for your needs

  • Like 1
Posted

Is there any merit to the following:

 

Running 12AWG cable from the amplifier to the LF post of my speakers then use a smaller 16AWG/20AWG jumper cable to the HF post.

 

Some say that 12AWG doesn't carry HF frequencies too well and is susceptible to roll off. Unsure if the a smaller jumper strap would aid the HF or if the damage is already done. Would a 5m run of 12AWG be prone to HF roll off compared to a 2m run of the same cable?

 

I only want to do this once hence my questioning as I usually end up buying/doing something twice.

Posted
21 hours ago, kelossus said:

Is there any merit to the following:

 

Running 12AWG cable from the amplifier to the LF post of my speakers then use a smaller 16AWG/20AWG jumper cable to the HF post.

 

Some say that 12AWG doesn't carry HF frequencies too well and is susceptible to roll off. Unsure if the a smaller jumper strap would aid the HF or if the damage is already done. Would a 5m run of 12AWG be prone to HF roll off compared to a 2m run of the same cable?

 

I only want to do this once hence my questioning as I usually end up buying/doing something twice.

 

For HF, you should look to using low inductance speaker cable. Again, RG213/U is your best, most economical choice. 

Posted
15 minutes ago, Zaphod Beeblebrox said:

 

For HF, you should look to using low inductance speaker cable. Again, RG213/U is your best, most economical choice. 

 

Any pictorial guide on how to terminate them well? :P

Posted (edited)
On 6/22/2017 at 10:16 AM, Happy said:

 

The issue with RG213 is though it is so stiff and a pain to terminate well....if I could rewire my set up again I'd ditch it without a second thought. 

I made up a set and didnt have any problems terminating them. You just take your time. One thing you dont do is twist the braid. Just gently squeeze it together and its easy as to terminate. I bared back the outer insulation 6 inches and only took the PE back half an inch.

I bared the braid back about 6 inches and then heat shrinked it.  

Edited by Wimbo
Posted
Just now, Happy said:

 

Any pictorial guide on how to terminate them well? :P

 

It's not that difficult, but I think that you can find something. Let Google be your friend. Connect the braid to a short length of flexible wire and the centre conductor to another. Heat shrink the whole lot and you're good to go. 

Posted (edited)
11 minutes ago, Happy said:

thanks but what about the centre strands? they're so thick and stiff

I have Monster Binding posts on the back of my speakers and used those Physical bananas that you twist up by hand to plug into the posts. The inner core goes into the back of the banana and hangs straight down, No stress. 

download.jpg.d768dd3794e7430b16ffe7a34849525b.jpgCable goes into these holes and drops freely.

Edited by Wimbo
  • Like 1
Posted
20 minutes ago, Happy said:

thanks but what about the centre strands? they're so thick and stiff

 

Solder to a short length of flexible cable. Heat shrink the whole thing and you're good to go.

Posted
14 minutes ago, Zaphod Beeblebrox said:

 

Solder to a short length of flexible cable. Heat shrink the whole thing and you're good to go.

 

Ahhhh....but doesn't it kinda spoil the RG characteristics? Or a short length at the end don't really matter?

Posted
Just now, Happy said:

 

Ahhhh....but doesn't it kinda spoil the RG characteristics? Or a short length at the end don't really matter?

 

It will not affect the performance one iota. Well, in truth, you will lose about 2% of the goodness in a typical cable run. 

  • Like 1
Posted

for more flexible version of RG213/U I can recommend Sommercable MAGELLAN SPK240, very easy to work with (braided cable 225x0.15mm) and +/- same characteristics

  • Like 1
Posted
On 22/06/2017 at 5:36 PM, kelossus said:

 

Some say that 12AWG doesn't carry HF frequencies too well and is susceptible to roll off.

 

 

If the 12awg was solid-core then yes ... I think your HFs would suffer due to 'skin effect' (look at the tables of wire guage vs. frequency).

If the 12awg was stranded (more likely) ... then SQ in general would suffer due to the stranded construction.  (I only ever use solid-core wire.)

 

On 22/06/2017 at 5:36 PM, kelossus said:

 

Would a 5m run of 12AWG be prone to HF roll off compared to a 2m run of the same cable?

 

 

The longer any cable is ... the more it degrades the SQ.  So, yes - a 5m run will sound worse than a 2m run.

 

Andy

 

Posted

After listening to Zaphods advice l am getting a whole role to do all my speaker cables.

Plan to solder a short flylead on to connect them and seal with heat shrink.

Too easy.

 

The whole roll wont cost much. ;)

Be interesting to see if l can hear the difference.

By the time l do all my systems wont be much left.

 

regards Bruce

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