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Tang Band W8-1772 - which design to build?


MrMojo
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Hi all,

 

I have been coveting the full range speakers for quite some time now and decided to go the DIY route due to simplicity of build and various design options available. However, the availability of many options has also resulted in some confusion in choosing a right design. I am seeking some help and guidance in choosing a enclosure design, especially from people who may have experience with any of the following designs. 

 

I have decided to use Tang Band W8-1772 drivers after doing a fare amount of reading and research, and also considering my goals and expectations from the build (e.g. good and clean bass and ability to play fairly loud with various genre of music including regular rock music)

 

Having chosen the driver, I have narrowed down the cabinet design choice to the following:

 

1. Tang Band's back horn design

 

Back horn design with a bit complex build. More details and high resolution plan can be downloaded as pdf from here - http://tb-speaker.com/products/sug1-19

SUG1-19%20DIM(1).jpg

 

2. Bob Brines M18-T772

 

MLTL design. Plans not available freely, I have purchased the plan and it also includes a BSC circuit design. Details here: http://www.brinesacoustics.com/Pages/M18-T772/Main.html

 

M18-T772.jpg

 

 

 

 

Now these are two very difference designs, and am sure they would have their own merits. I can perhaps choose one, but problem is there is not much information available on either at all. I have searched on diyaudio etc but theres not much in terms of user reviews or feedback.

 

 

While digging up the web for details on Tang Band back horn design, I came across this page https://hifi-selbstbau.de/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=429&catid=44&Itemid=74

 

(Its in German, you can translate it to English by using standard translate feature in Chrome.)

 

This page has freq response plot for the back horn design compared with a TQWT design. Looking at the freq resp plot it seems that the back horn seems to lacking a bit in terms of bass response. Bass seems to roll off much earlier than the TQWT design. This confuses me a bit as I was thinking that the horn may have better bass response. So assuming that the measurements are good, TQWT seems to have better bass than the back horn. On the other hand, the back horn seems to have better mid-to-high response compared to TQWT. So does that mean the back horn would be better in mid range, e.g. vocals etc?

 

And this well documented page also presents a third possible design choice - the TQWT design. This seems to be a simple to build design which I like, but again I have no idea how this may sound.

 

So, here I am with the above 2 main contenders and a possible 3rd design (TQWT). I wish I could listen to these options but that doesn't look possible so based on the available information - what do you guys think? Which design would you recommend? Has anyone built any of these, or something with W8-1772? 

 

Any other proven design that I should perhaps consider?

 

 

As always, really appreciate all the help.

 

 

Cheers.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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11988743_10153606233326052_6719529198609

 

Front ported red cedar enclosures, with a tapering towards the top of the box. Fast, great mids & nice bass bloom. Good choice of drivers.

 

That's a gorgeous looking enclosure there! I would be pretty happy myself if I end up something half as pretty as that  :)

 

Glad to hear your positive impressions of the driver. Is this your own design or a published one?

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The only difference in the 300hz+ response for the cabinet types is related to the size and shape of the front baffle (diffraction)....  so ignore any differences you see.

 

The horn will be an advantage if you want to get the most output possible from the driver  (ie.  you want them to go as loud as possible) ....  if it's just gentle home levels it might not be such an issue.

 

 

Otherwise, build some sort of TQWT or bass reflex box   (eg.  similar to the brines, or the german site you linked)  .... be prepared to prepared to experiment with stuffing and lining .... and/or use EQ.

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The only difference in the 300hz+ response for the cabinet types is related to the size and shape of the front baffle (diffraction)....  so ignore any differences you see.

 

The horn will be an advantage if you want to get the most output possible from the driver  (ie.  you want them to go as loud as possible) ....  if it's just gentle home levels it might not be such an issue.

 

 

Otherwise, build some sort of TQWT or bass reflex box   (eg.  similar to the brines, or the german site you linked)  .... be prepared to prepared to experiment with stuffing and lining .... and/or use EQ.

 

Thanks for the advice. I am also leaning more towards the Brines's MLTL design. Its also simple to build and looks more practical (size and weight).

 

But I am also a bit intrigued by the TQWT design given on the German site. It seems to measure well and is also very simple to build. What's your opinion on the TQWT?

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Guest atilsley

Here's some built by Murray and designed by me.

 

Also, consider Alfredo horn.....just 'glue and clamp'...!

 

Andrew

post-103876-0-44739600-1459593208_thumb.

post-103876-0-04673700-1459593292_thumb.

post-103876-0-75792500-1459593306_thumb.

post-103876-0-31908700-1459593377_thumb.

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I used to own the Pico Lino II, which I gave to my sister after about a year of use (I build a new pair of stand mounts).

 

HOB-3004009.jpg

 

 

They sounded excellent, a bit smaller than your design, but If I were you, I'd try the horn design.

 

No science here... just experience. I can imagine the other designs sound very good too.

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Guest atilsley

The pic with the gold/brown is a custom back liaded horn featuring 2m horn path.

The bass is solid for the driver chosen.

The other darker horn, Alfredo, uses Lowrher driver.

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I've heard some CH-2's from @@cheekyboy with Tangband full range. Very nice speakers.

 

I heard them too, I was at the GTG at Marc's. Phenomenal speakers, loved them. But sadly they are too big for my place and I know missus would never allow them in (I don't yet have the luxury of a dedicated listening room). But yes CH2's showed what could be achieved with a single 6" driver in a well designed box.

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  • 2 years later...

  • 11 months later...

Thread resurrection.

 

I have a set of these drivers and don’t fancy having the big heavy horn enclosures and since Bob Brines retired it’s not possible to get copies of his design.

 

I would like a simple ported design I can take to a cabinet maker and get made for me. I have Bill Fitzmaurice tuba sub so no need to stretch too far down, maybe down to  50Hz? I’ll use DSP (and an expert) for integration.

I have looked at some of the enclosure calculators but can’t be confident that as a novice I’m doing things correctly. I was hoping some of the SNA experts could share their tekkers  and pop the specs in a box calculator and give me a simple plan to use? 
 

These will eventually be relegated to my 2nd system for 78s and early monos so not looking for illusory end game overkill.


Specs here 

 

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I bought the Bob Brines kit plans for $25 US, a couple of years ago from memory. I got a SN'R to construct the cabinets for me, he also did the cross over to the supplied specs. Have upgraded the cross overs since

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7 hours ago, Bugs said:

I bought the Bob Brines kit plans for $25 US, a couple of years ago from memory. I got a SN'R to construct the cabinets for me, he also did the cross over to the supplied specs. Have upgraded the cross overs since

Thanks @Bugs unfortunately it’s not possible to buy the Brines design anymore. That’s why I was hoping someone could model an enclosure in one of the online calculators.  I had a crack but didn’t get it right.

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10 hours ago, Bugs said:

Plans are in PDF format so I can't attached them to this post. Send me you email address and I will send them to

you. cheers...Bugs

Thanks for the offer @Bugs very much appreciated but you might want to check the terms of use on your plans from Mr Brines. I don’t want to abuse his copyright and IP, and it might put you in breach if you give them away. 
 

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