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Power supply for Raspberry Pi?


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I have a Raspberry Pi 2 Model B and Geekroo PiFi DAC+ v2.0 (Hifiberry compatible) running RuneAudio for 2.1 speakers music (16bit 44.1kHz to 24bit 192kHz FLAC files mostly). I use a Dick Smith powered USB hub attached to the Raspberry Pi for the WiFi adapter, portable HDD, and USB Flash Drive.

I am not really an electrical guy, computer I know, but electricity I don't. I was using the wall-wart power supply for the Raspberry Pi and it sounded good, but I tried a USB battery to power the Raspberry Pi and this produced a much, much, much better sound from the Raspberry Pi. The lows, mids, and highs seemed so much more pronounced. Especially the lows, where clearer, better definition. So I got to reading about linear power supplies.

 

So I'm thinking, what are people here using to power their Raspberry Pi? Or, advice on a power supply to reproduce that better sound that the USB battery gave? Is Linear power what I'm looking for? Or, just a low noise power supply? And, thanks in advance for any help, advice.

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I have a Raspberry Pi 2 Model B and Geekroo PiFi DAC+ v2.0 (Hifiberry compatible) running RuneAudio for 2.1 speakers music (16bit 44.1kHz to 24bit 192kHz FLAC files mostly). I use a Dick Smith powered USB hub attached to the Raspberry Pi for the WiFi adapter, portable HDD, and USB Flash Drive.

I am not really an electrical guy, computer I know, but electricity I don't. I was using the wall-wart power supply for the Raspberry Pi and it sounded good, but I tried a USB battery to power the Raspberry Pi and this produced a much, much, much better sound from the Raspberry Pi. The lows, mids, and highs seemed so much more pronounced. Especially the lows, where clearer, better definition. So I got to reading about linear power supplies.

 

So I'm thinking, what are people here using to power their Raspberry Pi? Or, advice on a power supply to reproduce that better sound that the USB battery gave? Is Linear power what I'm looking for? Or, just a low noise power supply? And, thanks in advance for any help, advice.

This is timely, as I'm in the process of building a stupidly over the top power supply for raspberry.

As some might know im a huge fan of the raspberry for audio . Despite it's simplicity when its combined with a state-of-the-art fifo buffer to completely remove its jitter it becomes a fantastic audio device that has a beautiful organic sound , something that is not immediately and overtly impressive, but a sound that over a session reveals itself as just right and simply musical.

Like yourself I'm using battery powerand it sounds damn good to me.

But some on this forum carry on about how important power supplies are for CA, I still think it's far more important to get the digital side of it right by using fifo buffers , but I like to think im open minded enough to give everything a try, you never know what is around the corner, and this old dog likes to sniff out every possibilty.

So im building a linear power supply that is so over the top- huge transformer, state of the art rectifiers, double chokes that can switched for choke input or double cap input, electro or polyprop caps, depending on what achieves lowest noise and sound quality, probably a combination of both. Output will go to a LT1083 regulator, and then switched to go to one of 3 outputs- first will be a voltage regulator to give preciously 5.0V, next will be a simple constant current reg to output approx 5V at precise 1.0 amps, or adjusted to find what current raspberry likes, and last will be a Coleman constant current reg to provide 5V and extremely precise current with very low noise.

All switchable on the fly, to make immediate comparisms, so no delayed impressions on sound quality.

Will it make a difference? Probably, I suspect it won't be as big as you'd think, but it will be an interesting exercise.

Ill be putting a circuit diagram and impressions on the DIY forum in a while.

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"...power supplies are for CA..." <---- And what is "CA"?

 

All I know is that when using the wall-wart the Raspberry Pi sounded good, and then using a USB battery is sounded way better. So what I want to reproduce is that 'better' sound without using the damned battery that I have to keep recharging... anyway, I also believe the Raspberry Pi is "...a fantastic audio device that has a beautiful organic sound..." (especially for the small price I paid) and is also "...immediately and overtly impressive..." (the battery test proves that to me every time I listen) and has a "...sound that over a session reveals itself as just right and simply musical..."

 

Anyway statman, I learned a long time ago that the only person I have to impress is me, especially when it comes to music I listen to, and the sound of my system. If someone enjoys the ride (and sound) with me, then good for them. So, thanks for your response I appreciate it. 54 views and only one response.

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"...power supplies are for CA..." <---- And what is "CA"?

 

All I know is that when using the wall-wart the Raspberry Pi sounded good, and then using a USB battery is sounded way better. So what I want to reproduce is that 'better' sound without using the damned battery that I have to keep recharging... anyway, I also believe the Raspberry Pi is "...a fantastic audio device that has a beautiful organic sound..." (especially for the small price I paid) and is also "...immediately and overtly impressive..." (the battery test proves that to me every time I listen) and has a "...sound that over a session reveals itself as just right and simply musical..."

 

Anyway statman, I learned a long time ago that the only person I have to impress is me, especially when it comes to music I listen to, and the sound of my system. If someone enjoys the ride (and sound) with me, then good for them. So, thanks for your response I appreciate it. 54 views and only one response.

Because we're interested but have no idea how.  Personally  am still not convinced I know how to actually make it do what I want.  Power Supply ??  Mate..........................

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Jackybrown > Thanks.

 

E.Man (aka Hendrixian) > Ahhhh, okies. Thanks for your honesty. Hendrix.... yes. From the age of 13 to 16 I went from ABBA to Hendrix... with some help from some 'green' (puff the magic dragon). Band of Gypsys... In the West... Machine Gun.... mmmm, Woodstock. Very inspirational at that age.... LoL! Bega Valley.... nice, Sydney Metro here. Nothing to brag about I know. The Pi's good for movies, with Openelec. Music too, with RuneAudio. There's a slight learning curve... but when your've done it once it's easy as shitting in bed and kicking it out with your foot. No mess, no fuss.

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Have you seen the size of some of the threads trying to get them to do things.  I opted out of the one I started cos it went beyond me.

 

 

Oh yeah ....altho I had Hendrix as special subject for a while I can't change the avatar.  Too much beard to fit in the box or something so it's just bad luck for me.

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E.Man > If you "started" one, then I assume you have a Raspberry Pi on hand. If you want help to set it up just PM me here. By trade I am an Info Tech teacher. I could even give you a call to walk you through the hard part. For now here's a walk through I used:

 

http://www.instructables.com/id/Raspberry-Pi-as-Hi-Fi-player-with-RuneAudio/

 

PS: Helped a guy just this week past, he was able to get it up and running while we were on the phone. It is my opinion that the Raspberry Pi is a good music file player, especially for the price. I have been using it to watch movies (Openelec) and play music (RuneAudio) for a year now. Any USB slot, on your TV, on your AVR, can power the Raspberry Pi.

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statman > I tried moode, it was just way too complex (even for me). I tried others too, again, just too complex. The two simplest are Volumio and RuneAudio, with RuneAudio being the simplest. And, in my opinion, RuneAudio sounded better. Although, there are many, many more people using Volumio.

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All I know is that when using the wall-wart the Raspberry Pi sounded good, and then using a USB battery is sounded way better. So what I want to reproduce is that 'better' sound without using the damned battery that I have to keep recharging.

 

I agree that it sounds better.  I built a 24v battery supply (2x 12v SLAs in series) for a mate's phono stage and he is rapt with the increase in SQ, over the stock wall-wart.  But to do an SLA supply properly ... is not cheap, when you include a nice case and a charger!  (His was around $300, I seem to remember.)

 

Any USB slot, on your TV, on your AVR, can power the Raspberry Pi.

 

So does the Pi unit have a USB slot on it ... or a mini-USB slot ... or a micro-USB slot?

 

The reason I ask is that whilst I agree - a battery PS will give you better sound than a normal (SMPS) wall-wart - the Sbooster SMPSes are engineered to deliver the advantage of an SMPS (speed, to enable transients to be delivered faithfully) ... without the disadvantages.

 

So, if you were interested, I could send you up a 5v Sbooster unit to compare against your battery supply - but I need to know what kind of socket the Rasberry Pi unit has.

 

 

Regards,

 

Andy

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Ok Heres a simplified circuit diagram for the stupidly over the top power supply, completely over-engineered and probably just not needed. We shall see how it sounds, although there are many options of circuit configurations and components possible. With a change of transformer and component values it could be used for laptop and computer server.

Note the death's head, 240V mains can kill you. Will move next post on build and sound impressions to DIY page, where it belongs.

 

 

post-112248-0-48982600-1459568737_thumb.

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Hello rastus,

 

I would like to suggest a couple of mods that should help the regulator ripple rejection of the regulator.

Please see the suggested modded supply schematic.

You may have already have these in the unsimplified schematic.

A full schematic may be bit too much to ask for?

 

As an aside I have bought these adjustable regulators, item number 331676032601, from the well known auction site, they work well and have good quality pcb and components.

Full schematic of the supply in the listing.

I replaced the blue LED on these boards with a 3mm green as the blue LEDs nearly blind you they are so bright.

 

Will look froward to your listening results.

 

Russell.

post-153397-0-77827900-1459632485_thumb.

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andyr > The Pi has a 5V micro USB (female) on the main board itself, this can then be connected at the other end to any 'normal' PC USB slot. Again I must say, I am a complete 'retard' when it comes to electronics/electrical. Computers and computer networks I know, it's my trade (and teaching/training). Yes, I have read much about the Sbooster power supplies for the Pi. And thought they were a good idea.... but....

BOTW P&P ECO 5V - 6V
https://www.sbooster.com/botw-pp-eco-5v-6v/
This page says the Pi is not suitable for the SBooster Ultra? Am I reading this correctly?

5V Mini PC 5V
https://www.sbooster.com/botw-pp-eco-5v-6v/5v-mini-pc-upgrade
But at the bottom of the page it says this is not suitable for the Pi? Am I reading this correctly?
The BOTW P&P ECO 5V - 6V is suitable for following mini PC's
Brand        Model        Voltage    SBooster Single Unit    Sbooster Ultra
Raspberry Pi     All models        5V     No         No

I have also read up on the iFi iPower, this being a wall-wart type with "Active Noise Cancellation drawn from military radar technology". This comes in a 5V version. But, the Australian distributor (http://www.maxmedia.com.au/www.maxmedia.com.au/IFI_SERIES.html) has it listed at $105.00 inc GST, but "The IFI IPOWER - SOON". That means, not now, not yet. Eeeck!

I recently posted in the Gieseler power supply thread here (http://www.stereo.net.au/forums/index.php/topic/100369-raspberry-pi-and-dspeaker/) asking similar questions and adding about the DSPeaker Anti-Mode 8033 power supply, and I read that SBooster do indeed have a unit for this (https://www.sbooster.com/botw-pp-eco-12v-132v/anti-mode-8033). They says, "...we have applied a large number of innovative techniques in order to improve the sound quality of your DSPeaker Anti-Mode 8033 to a much higher level compared to a conventional linear audio power supply." The DSPeaker is a sub PEQ device that does work, or has for me. Ii drastically improved the low end in my room. So, I'm thinking of a linear power supply for that too. By "linear" I mean improved upon the standard wall wart switching thingy that comes with it, and the Pi.

But, TeraDak (http://www.teradak.com/) have power supplies that have a USB and 'external supply' cord, one for the Pi (the USB) and one for the DSPeaker (?). I'm just not sure which one. Something like:

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Teralink-X2-Upgraded-Linear-Power-Supply-DC-8-5V-1A-USB-5V-1A-/291718867385?hash=item43ebcca9b9:g:Be8AAOSwDk5T9aC~

That one is 8.5V, but if they have a 12V? It has the USB slot on board.

So really, a linear power supply, a clean (using some technology) power supply, a new fan-dangled power supply... anything better than the wall-wart, or battery, that 'cleans up' the supply will do. Being an un-electrical person, I don't know which. Wherever I have used the word "linear" could be replaced with "better than wall-wart".

"So, if you were interested, I could send you up a 5v Sbooster unit to compare against your battery supply - but I need to know what kind of socket the Rasberry Pi unit has."

So, well, sure, I guess. Do you sell them? Have them hanging around? Loan? Sale? Gift? I love you too! But seriously. I think I read on this forum, a lady from SBooster explaining the differences between a wall-wart, battery, and SBooster. The SBooster being the better of the three. She explained the benifits rather well (can't find the link now).

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statman > Yep, and thanks but.... it may as well be Egyptian hieroglyphics to me. All I understand of that is that 240V means death, and that much I knew already. LoL! I in no way mean to demean your good work, it's just that I am actually a complete retard concerning electronics (except that 240V means death). And the "LoL" is towards me, no you brother.

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Oh, and what's a SLA battery? I copied this from another forum somewhere, "I contacted Dspeaker about this and a linear or battery power supply 12vdc-15vdc will greatly improve the sound quality. I power mine with a 12v SLA battery power supply."

Now, the wall socket is AC and that is (correct me if I'm wrong) alternating current? And a battery is DC (again correct me if I'm wrong) and that is direct current? And the wall-wart is a 'switched mode power supply'? So is a linear power supply direct current? So we have SMPS's that have some kind of 'clean up' technology installed in it, that may be an improvement over the the usual wall-wart SMPS? Now to my DSPeaker...

Following are the power specifications for the DSPeaker Anti-Mode 8033Cinema:

From the manual:
Power consumption: 1.2 W
Operation voltage: 9 VAC or 12 VDC

From the back of the DSPeaker itself:
9V AC / 12V DC

From the wall-wart that came with the DSPeaker:
AC Adapter
Model: STD-12006E
P/N: CPS-12006EU-3630
Input: 100-240v~47-63Hz 0.19A MAX
Output: 12.0V---0.6A 7.2W MAX

Note: --- = three dots below with a straight line above.

From the internet:
STD-12006U/U1/E/B
O/P Voltage: 12.0V
O/P Current: 0.6A
Watt: 7.20W
http://www.distrelec.ch/Web/Downloads/_t/ds/std05010_eng_tds.pdf?mime=application/pdf&ref=727329-imk5pkefa2000bib027re&affmt=2&affmn=1

This is really all.... Egyptian hieroglyphics to me.

So... I want a better power supply for the Raspberry Pi.... and I think (from what I've read on other international forums) a better power supply for the DSPeaker would improve that also. I haven't bothered to speak to people on the other 'international' forums because of differences on power supplies to Australian standards. I think, a linear (or other technology) power supply for the DSPeaker that has a 5V USB slot on it would be nice. Farg, it's not like shopping at KMart is it?!?!?!
 

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If the schematic is something you cannot understand, then I suggest you should search out the best value for money commercial supply.

 

Finding the one which is the best is another thing, I can only suggest that you send @@andyr a photo or another identifier for the power supply socket you have and take up his very kind offer of an Sbooster to try out.

 

Power for the Raspberry Pi B+ is 5V 2A via a micro usb socket.

 

The power supply for any application is not an easy task to get right, I  have tried four different topologies for my class D amplifier and I have settled on what so far is the best sounding one, simple as that.

 

Russell.

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Just chillin to some tunes today....

Andy Summers & Robert Fripp - I Advance Masked

Brenda Holloway - The Artistry of Brenda Holloway

Carol Sloane - Love You Madly

Neko Case - Middle Cyclone

Anna Netrebko - Verdi

Premiata Forneria Marconi - Photos Of Ghosts

Sarah McLachlan - Closer (The Best Of)

Rebecca Pidgeon - The Raven

Rascal Flatts - Greatest Hits Volume 1

Fleet Foxes - Fleet Foxes (Limited Edition)

Jarryd James - Thirty One

CHVRCHES - Every Open Eye

This is all new stuff I've never heard before, from reading online.

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andyr > The Pi has a 5V micro USB (female) on the main board itself, this can then be connected at the other end to any 'normal' PC USB slot. Again I must say, I am a complete 'retard' when it comes to electronics/electrical. Computers and computer networks I know, it's my trade (and teaching/training). Yes, I have read much about the Sbooster power supplies for the Pi. And thought they were a good idea.... but....

BOTW P&P ECO 5V - 6V

https://www.sbooster.com/botw-pp-eco-5v-6v/

This page says the Pi is not suitable for the SBooster Ultra? Am I reading this correctly?

5V Mini PC 5V

https://www.sbooster.com/botw-pp-eco-5v-6v/5v-mini-pc-upgrade

But at the bottom of the page it says this is not suitable for the Pi? Am I reading this correctly?

The BOTW P&P ECO 5V - 6V is suitable for following mini PC's

Brand        Model        Voltage    SBooster Single Unit    Sbooster Ultra

Raspberry Pi     All models        5V     No         No

I have also read up on the iFi iPower, this being a wall-wart type with "Active Noise Cancellation drawn from military radar technology". This comes in a 5V version. But, the Australian distributor (http://www.maxmedia.com.au/www.maxmedia.com.au/IFI_SERIES.html) has it listed at $105.00 inc GST, but "The IFI IPOWER - SOON". That means, not now, not yet. Eeeck!

I recently posted in the Gieseler power supply thread here (http://www.stereo.net.au/forums/index.php/topic/100369-raspberry-pi-and-dspeaker/) asking similar questions and adding about the DSPeaker Anti-Mode 8033 power supply, and I read that SBooster do indeed have a unit for this (https://www.sbooster.com/botw-pp-eco-12v-132v/anti-mode-8033). They says, "...we have applied a large number of innovative techniques in order to improve the sound quality of your DSPeaker Anti-Mode 8033 to a much higher level compared to a conventional linear audio power supply." The DSPeaker is a sub PEQ device that does work, or has for me. Ii drastically improved the low end in my room. So, I'm thinking of a linear power supply for that too. By "linear" I mean improved upon the standard wall wart switching thingy that comes with it, and the Pi.

But, TeraDak (http://www.teradak.com/) have power supplies that have a USB and 'external supply' cord, one for the Pi (the USB) and one for the DSPeaker (?). I'm just not sure which one. Something like:

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Teralink-X2-Upgraded-Linear-Power-Supply-DC-8-5V-1A-USB-5V-1A-/291718867385?hash=item43ebcca9b9:g:Be8AAOSwDk5T9aC~

That one is 8.5V, but if they have a 12V? It has the USB slot on board.

So really, a linear power supply, a clean (using some technology) power supply, a new fan-dangled power supply... anything better than the wall-wart, or battery, that 'cleans up' the supply will do. Being an un-electrical person, I don't know which. Wherever I have used the word "linear" could be replaced with "better than wall-wart".

"So, if you were interested, I could send you up a 5v Sbooster unit to compare against your battery supply - but I need to know what kind of socket the Rasberry Pi unit has."

So, well, sure, I guess. Do you sell them? Have them hanging around? Loan? Sale? Gift? I love you too! But seriously. I think I read on this forum, a lady from SBooster explaining the differences between a wall-wart, battery, and SBooster. The SBooster being the better of the three. She explained the benifits rather well (can't find the link now).

 

Hi Rastus,

 

The 2nd Sbooster link you provided certainly suggests that the 5v Sbooster is not suitable for the Rasperry Pi ... yet the 1st one does.  Note: the 1st one says the "Sbooster Ultra" is not compatible - that is a little add-on, not the "main box".  If you look at the pics of the Sbooster unit on the 1st link (scroll down a bit) you will see that it's a "big box" with a "little box" plugged in near the end of the output power lead. This little box is the "Sbooster Ultra" - it's a little add-on which can't be used on items that suck a lot of current.

 

As it's not 100% clear from Link #1 and link #2 together, whether the Sbooster 5v unit is compatible with a Rasberry Pi, I will email Karin Hoks tonight and see if I can get a definitive answer for you.  I have newly signed up as a dealer for Sbooster and I'm afraid I'm not 100% au fait with their products.

 

The 12v Sbooster is compatible with the DSPeaker, according to their compatibility list - but I will ask her that as well.

 

 

Regards,

 

Andy

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Oh, and what's a SLA battery? I copied this from another forum somewhere, "I contacted Dspeaker about this and a linear or battery power supply 12vdc-15vdc will greatly improve the sound quality. I power mine with a 12v SLA battery power supply."

Now, the wall socket is AC and that is (correct me if I'm wrong) alternating current? And a battery is DC (again correct me if I'm wrong) and that is direct current? And the wall-wart is a 'switched mode power supply'? So is a linear power supply direct current? So we have SMPS's that have some kind of 'clean up' technology installed in it, that may be an improvement over the the usual wall-wart SMPS?

 

An 'SLA' is a sealed lead acid battery - like you have in your car.  They come in 6v & 12v ... but you can make multiples of this DC supply by 'stacking' them.  So 3x 6v SLAs in series gives you 18v ... and 2x 12v SLAs in series gives you 24v.  However, this is the 'nominal' voltage:

  • as you use an SLA, its charge drops - so at some stage, it needs to be re-charged.
  • but at full charge, the nominal 24v can be as high as 26v.

Yes, the wall socket is AC ... 240v +/- in Oz and Europe, 110v +/- in the US.

Yes, battery is DC.

DC is what electronics runs off - so:

  • if the component has an AC power cord, there is a rectifier inside it which is converting AC to DC.
  • some components don't run off 240v AC - they need a 'step down' transformer.  So if the back of the component says, for instance, "24v AC" then the 'wall wart' which came with it merely transforms 240v down to 24v - it's still AC, so there is a rectifying circuit inside the component.
  • but if the back of the component says, for instance, "12v DC" then the 'wall wart' which came with it is a SMPS which has converted AC to DC.
  • and you can substitute that standard SMPS wall-wart which came with the component with several options:
    • SLAs
    • a "linear power supply"
    • or a better SMPS like the Sbooster units.
  • a "linear power supply" is simply a circuit which rectifies AC to DC and then, typically, regulates it - so that the DC output is constant.  So a "12v" linear supply would output 12v +/-0.1v, not 12v +/-1v.  It uses different technology to a switched mode power supply.

From the manual:

Power consumption: 1.2 W

Operation voltage: 9 VAC or 12 VDC

From the back of the DSPeaker itself:

9V AC / 12V DC

From the wall-wart that came with the DSPeaker:

AC Adapter

Model: STD-12006E

P/N: CPS-12006EU-3630

Input: 100-240v~47-63Hz 0.19A MAX

Output: 12.0V---0.6A 7.2W MAX

Note: --- = three dots below with a straight line above.

From the internet:

STD-12006U/U1/E/B

O/P Voltage: 12.0V

O/P Current: 0.6A

Watt: 7.20W

http://www.distrelec.ch/Web/Downloads/_t/ds/std05010_eng_tds.pdf?mime=application/pdf&ref=727329-imk5pkefa2000bib027re&affmt=2&affmn=1

This is really all.... Egyptian hieroglyphics to me.

 

I agree those words could mean anything!  :D

 

But I think a 12v Sbooster (which outputs 12v DC) is compatible with the DSPeaker - I will find out for you.

 

So... I want a better power supply for the Raspberry Pi

 

 

I'll get a definitive statement from Karin.

 

 

Regards,

 

Andy

Edited by andyr
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andyr > Yes, Karin Hoks, I read her post somewhere about wall-wart, batteries, and SBoosters. And man, you have answered all my questions, THANK YOU. I am still reading, and because I know so little I will be reading all your answers again and again for a few days I'm sure.

 

PS: Just finished reading... I do want to read it all again, but again I say thank you man for such a thorough response!!!! Give me a couple of days to get back to you, I'm not ignoring you.

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andyr > Yes, Karin Hoks, I read her post somewhere about wall-wart, batteries, and SBoosters. And man, you have answered all my questions, THANK YOU. I am still reading, and because I know so little I will be reading all your answers again and again for a few days I'm sure.

 

PS: Just finished reading... I do want to read it all again, but again I say thank you man for such a thorough response!!!! Give me a couple of days to get back to you, I'm not ignoring you.

 

andyr > Yes, Karin Hoks, I read her post somewhere about wall-wart, batteries, and SBoosters. And man, you have answered all my questions, THANK YOU. I am still reading, and because I know so little I will be reading all your answers again and again for a few days I'm sure.

 

PS: Just finished reading... I do want to read it all again, but again I say thank you man for such a thorough response!!!! Give me a couple of days to get back to you, I'm not ignoring you.

 

Hi Rastus,

 

(Sorry for the double post quote - SNA seems to have a problem sometimes with FF?)

 

OK, just heard back from Karin at Sbooster:

  1. Yes, the basic 5v Sbooster that I have in stock, is compatible with the Rasberry Pi.  All that is needed is a micro USB plug on the end of the lead - which I have.  PM me if you'd like to try it out - and please confirm that the Rasberry Pi has a micro-USB socket (like fitted to my phone, for instance).
  2. The 12v Sbooster is compatible with a DSPeaker unit - provided it is the older one which needs an external 12v SMPS.  (Karin said that the newer model has an internal SMPS - so possibly has a mains socket.)  I am waiting for some of these to arrive.

 

Regards,

 

Andy

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Re: "Sbooster Ultra" <----- Yep, I see that now.
Re: "But I think a 12v Sbooster (which outputs 12v DC) is compatible with the DSPeaker..." <----- Yes, I read that too.
Re: "The 12v Sbooster is compatible with a DSPeaker unit - provided it is the older one which needs an external 12v SMPS. (Karin said that the newer model has an internal SMPS - so possibly has a mains socket.)"

The DSPeaker Anti-Mode 8033 came in four flavors, listed below:
8033Cinema
8033S-II
8033 C (discontinued)
8033 S (discontinued)
http://www.dspeaker.com/en/products/anti-mode-8033.shtml

I have the 8033Cinema, the enclosure size is 126 mm x 80 mm x 28 mm (5" x 3.2"  x 1.1"). Below is a picture of the back of the unit:
http://www.connectedhome.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2014/12/8033Cinema.jpg

Anti-Mode 2.0 Dual Core
http://www.dspeaker.com/en/products/20-dual-core.shtml
Below is a picture of the back of the unit:
http://www.dspeaker.com/typo3temp/pics/d_e6286c5ed4.jpg

I assume "a mains socket" is just a plug for the wall, not a big bulky square box thingy that plugs into the wall? The 8033Cinema has the big bulky square box thingy that plugs into the wall.

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