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Further information: These subs were bought from Cameron at Krispy Audio in 2013. I have included a picture of a chip in the finish on one of the subs top mesh frame, the rest of the finish on both have a few very tiny scuffs that you have to actually try to find to notice them. They are in very good condition. Included are 2 amps as well as Krispy sub cables, ready to plug & play. Comes with original packaging & manuals etc. These are in the elite realm of subwoofers. https://www.soundgallery.com.au/product-page/wilson-benesch-torus-infra-sonic-generator-piano-black https://www.soundgallery.com.au/product-page/wilson-benesch-torus-infra-sonic-generator-amplifier-satin-black Photos:

Item: XTZ SUB 3X12 Active Subwoofers Location: Sunbury VIC Price: $4,800 pair ($4,500 Australian RRP each) - Will not separate unless two confirmed purchasers. Item Condition: Absolutely as new, used for 4-5 movies only. No boxes, but with all accessories, manuals etc. Reason for selling: Going to install an integrated HT system behind an acoustically transparent screen. Payment Method: Pickup - Cash, Paypal/CC (+ fees) Extra Info: I imported these from XTZ Europe. Freight is an absolute killer given these are huge and weigh a whopping 77.4 kgs each. They stand 1.14m high! If you want truly the best bass for your HT, 6 x 12" (total) woofers will do it! Fortunately, I've done all the hard work getting them here for you, including logistics, customs etc. Plug, play, and enjoy! For full specifications, and more information you can look here: https://www.xtzsound.eu/product/sub-3x12 I can take some pictures in my room for a genuinely interested buyer before they come out to pick up, but they're in perfect condition and look just like these: Pictures:

Item: 2 12inch cubwoofers with 2 Dayton spa500dsp sub woofer plate amps Location: Adelaide Price: $950 ono Item Condition: good Reason for selling: nlr Payment Method: Pickup - Cash, COD Only Extra Info: 2x sub boxes from Ascension Audio with Eminence lab12 drivers in t/l enclosures. 2 x Dayton SPA500DSP plate amps in home made wooden enclosure to keep them in the rack as they need to get inputs from amp, then output to main speaker amp and run speaker cables to boxes. amps are a few months old with minimal use. local only too big and bulky and expensive to post. dimensions are 400mm w x 450mm d x 520mm h https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-spa500dsp-500w-subwoofer-plate-amplifier-with-dsp--300-8012 link to amps, Pictures:

Item: Either a B&W PV1 or PV 1D Location: Camberwell Vic Price: SOLD Item Condition: PV1 excellent, PV1D, excellent apart from small mark that was present when I purchased, that I have subsequently repaired - shown in picture. Reason for selling: Too many subs. I am rolling a few subs through my 2 channel system to see what compliments it the best - I will sell only one of these, the other will be retained, or I’ll keep both and set up 7.2 system, if I can’t garner any interest. Payment Method: Pickup - Cash, Paypal, Bank Transfer Only - additional charges for PayPal. Extra Info: Both of these subs have High Level or speaker input, which IMHO is the best method for connecting a sub to a 2 channel system. The PV 1D was purchased recently for $950 from another SNA member for $950, but didn’t have all the cables required, so I purchased them at $170, so the price reflects the additional cables. Comes with original box and now, all cables that enable setup via the PV1D app on a laptop. The PV1 has all cables and original box. These are excellent subs for 2 channel or HT use. Pick up preferred, but can freight at buyer’s expense. Pictures: PV 1D PV1

Does anybody have any information on the newly announced 3000 series?

Item: Paradigm DSP-3400 x2 Location: Sydney Price: $750 each (rrp $2099 each when i bought them) Item Condition: Excellent Reason for selling: Too many subwoofers Payment Method: Pickup - Cash, Paypal, COD Only Extra Info: Almost brand new, probably had a few hours usage tops and that is in a room with about 10-12 other subs so not really cranked up at all. http://www.paradigm.com/products/paradigm/subwoofer/dsp-series/dsp-3400 Big Bass for a Small Space High-power DSP Series subwoofers are the result of Paradigm’s multi-year R&D effort to achieve exceptional high performance while accommodating the growing desire for installation flexibility. Not everyone wants a high-performance subwoofer on full display, so models are front-firing and front-ported with removable grilles, making them ideal for “hidden†installations. For those who want it all … exceptional high performance (including the sonic benefits of digital signal processing!), a smaller footprint, flexible placement options and killer price points, DSP subwoofers fit the bill. Control Facilities: • Auto On/Off • Subwoofer Level • Subwoofer Cut-Off Frequency (continuously variable 35 Hz – 150 Hz); Bypass Option • Sub/Sat Phase Alignment (0° to 180°) • USB Port/PBK Interface Input Facilities: • Line-level Inputs Advanced High-Power Class-D™ Amplifiers deliver massive amounts of high-current power with minimal distortion. 900 watts Dynamic Peak / 300 watts RMS. Forward-Firing Drivers with Advanced CAP™ Carbon / Aramid-Fiber Polypropylene Cones. Advanced cone material combines exceptional stiffness/low mass with excellent internal damping for tremendous freedom from unwanted resonances. Advanced Suspension Design and Large Magnet Structures encourage extended cone excursion while maintaining superb control over cone movement. High-Efficiency Dual-Ported Design. High-velocity low-noise ports with critically flared openings serve to reduce turbulence distortion. Front-ported design accommodates installation flexibility. Removable Grilles with SVS™ Slot Ventilation System allow release of the enormous air pressure generated by these high-output designs. Acoustically Inert MDF Enclosures serve to limit unwanted panel resonances and vibrations, ensuring clean, clear and very articulate bass performance. SPECIFICATIONS Design Single driver, bass-reflex, dual high-velocity low-turbulence resistive ports, built-in amplifier, USB Port / PBK Interface Amplifier: High-Current, Discrete Output 900 watts Dynamic Peak / 300 watts RMS Amplifier Features Auto-On / Off, soft clipping Bass Driver 355-mm (14 in) CAP™ cone, ceramic / ferrite magnet, 50-mm (2 in) 4-layer voice-coil, dual spiders, AVS™ die-cast heatsink chassis Low-Frequency Extension* 19 Hz (DIN) Subwoofer Cut-Off Frequency Variable 35 Hz - 150 Hz; Bypass Option Sub / Sat Phase Alignment Variable 0° - 180° Line-Level Inputs RCA (L/R-Mono) for L/R Line-Out or Sub-Out / LFE-Out of receiver, processor or other line-level source Height, Width, Depth 65.5 cm x 40.0 cm x 53.2 cm 22-1/4 in x 15-3/4 in x 21 in (Height includes feet; depth includes grille and amplifier) Weight (unpacked) 29.5 kg / 64.8 lb each Reviews:- http://hometheater.about.com/od/loudspeakerreviews/gr/pardsp3400s.htm http://www.retrevo.com/s/Paradigm-DSP-3400-Subwoofers-review-manual/id/11221ci262/t/1-2/ http://www.audioreview.com/cat/speakers/subwoofers/paradigm-reference/dsp3400/PRD_418646_2741crx.aspx http://www.paradigm.com/index.php?option=com_joomdoc&task=doc_download&gid=702&Itemid=8 Pictures:

iv settled on the design for my new sub build an im going to start buying the parts so if i go with a Dayton Audio UM15-22 15" Ultimax DVC Subwoofer 2 ohms Per Coil wired to 4ohm an placed in a 18in by 48in sonotube with one 21in by 5.220in port tuned to 17hz an powered by a Crown XLS 1502 525W 2-channel Power Amplifier in Bridged 4ohm for 1550watt with gain knob to full would i get an audibly chuff id be using the 10band parametric eq in my outlaw audio 976 4 receiver the sub ch has a hi an lo shelf an 8 adjustable bands all 10 can be tweaked for 2ohz to 20khz +3 to -20db an the 8 bands q goes from .5 to 14 for some fine tuning an id use REW WIZARD to do it drawing is a rough concept cant really show more till all the parts are bought an arrive the sonotubes are a set back as the shipping cost changed with the company i was going to go with tho they did mention they would when i first look at deco-cretesupply.com 2 x 18in by 60in ran 173.50$ with fedex ground the cheapest at 210$ so 383.5 total not bad i thought for to cabs at less then 200$ each for 8.3ft3 but now is 430.35 damn so that why i decided on 48in by 18in an why i didnt get when less i did think i would go up that much that fast at save up to get the amp an driver first was my goal tho i did manage to get the amp while on sale an its on the way right not so im reassessing wither or not to either go with another company that sell by the foot or to go with smaller cabs the original design called for an 8.8ft3 with a 21in by 5in port tuned at 17 or even two at 37in long but that would very costly for the ports so one v1 v2 with one port this seems like the happy trade off for size to cost as two 18in by 48in will run me 138.80$ with 122.71$ in shipping for a total of 261.51$ with the desired sub do you'll that this would be a good compromise with the one port per cab these are my end caps to be custom cut by sendcutsend.com theres two different quotes one is for layered hardwood mdf at .125in that would be layered up to 1in for the port side an to 1.5in for driver side per cab the other quote is for 1in thick for both sides with a mix of .125in an .5in for the port side an two .5in layers for the driver im good with the cost as iv had work done by them before but my question is do you'll think the both endcaps for these cabs with these drivers need to be thicker then 1in to 1.5in or is 1in on both ends enough either way thers some steel outer rods that are planned to be used as like a vice grip to the outer frame that also serve as the legs for the cab your thoughts on all this

I’ve been wanting to write down my home theatre build experience so far for a while now. Maybe it’ll help anyone interested in starting their own journey. I’m a home theatre enthusiast, not a technical person. If you’re looking for something more technical see this article by Maz4bz on a large part of my build: https://www.stereonet.com/forums/topic/282701-alpine-12-tapped-horn-home-theatre-subwoofer-build/#comment-4733144 Ignorance is bliss Moving into my house more than 15 years ago, I had no idea what was possible. All I knew was that I had a room labelled ‘Theatre’ on the plan, and I was going to use it. Got a couple of floating boxes made up with a space in between to slot in the Panasonic 47” rear projection TV (don’t laugh). Added a Sony 5.1 amplifier, compact speakers, subwoofer, and a PlayStation 3. Thought I was pretty cool connecting everything up with component and optical cables. I loved it! Got a taste for it now Several years passed, my collection of Blu-rays is getting serious. I told myself that’ll upgrade the TV when this one dies. Plasma and LCD TVs piqued my interest…still my TV kicked on. Finally, I’d had enough when I saw a 4K TV. I must have one! I settled on a Sony Bravia 75” 4K TV (75X8500D). The TV had to sit on a plank between the cabinets for way too long while I mused over options. Finally settling on a built-in cabinet, the full length of the wall. HDMI is a thing The Sony amplifier was okay for its time, but it had no HDMI capabilities. Solution, switch it out for a Pioneer Amplifier (SC-1223). Even with the two extra channels, I left the configuration at a 5.1 with the original speakers. To round things off I finally added a dedicated media player, a Panasonic Blu-ray Twin Tuner HDD Recorder. There’s a problem The TV was awesome, movies looked great, but the sound just didn’t do it for me anymore. After many deep and meaningful discussion with my mate (an audiophile tragic), I settled on upgrading the speakers to a 7.2 configuration, replacing the front L/R with Klipsch K/RP160M and a matching Klipsch Centre (K/RP250C). Then adding in 4 Altronics 6.5” in ceiling speakers for Rear L/R and Centre Rear L/R. Finally, my mate designed two passive subwoofers for me, using Alpine X 12” (X-W12D4) speakers he managed to get hold of second hand, adding a Behringer Ultradrive Pro DCX2496 and Crown XLS2502 amplifier to drive them. The cabinet maker did an awesome job. This upgrade was significant and now I was starting to understand what a home theatre could be. A taste of bass The bass was key, I was hooked. I needed more! My mate suggested adding another subwoofer. I didn’t even blink, adding a custom-built Dayton 18" Audio passive subwoofer. I now had a 7.3 configuration. It made a significant improvement, but… More power! I needed more. I wanted to feel and experience movies like I’d never experienced before. I’d heard about setups with subwoofers behind chairs to give you that real kick to immerse you in the movie. My buddy and I discussed at length the various issues with the design and cost of trying to fit four speakers behind the recliner chairs. Then came the radical idea of a tapped horn subwoofer. Building one would be significantly cheaper than buying (A Danley DTS20 comes in at around $10K). This was genius, a single speaker with a trumpet-like internal configuration to amplify the sound. The only drawback, it’d be big. We decided to treat it as an experiment. If it didn’t work, we’d be able to salvage parts from the carcase and look at alternative solutions. All in My response was, okay, but let’s build two! I sourced two Alpine R 12” (R-W12D2) speakers and waited impatiently for the results. To drive them I added a Crown XLS1002. I now had a 7.5 configuration. The results were staggering. Its difficult to explain the experience. All I can say is that there’s bass in soundtracks that you didn’t know existed. Using Star Wars as a reference, you feel tension in the scene where Kylo Ren uses the force on Rey in the Force Awakens…and when his lightsaber starts up…wow! I’ve had this setup for a few years now, and it never gets old. A challenge About a year ago I had a few guys over for a movie night. I was told later that they thought it was the biggest sound experience they’d ever had, with the smallest screen. I couldn’t have that. My mission…go bigger. I dug up anything I could on projectors. One drawback being that they don’t have a built in TV tuner and all the smart TV apps. I looked very seriously at short throw projectors as they have in-built TV tuners. Unfortunately, the short throw isn’t as short as I needed. I just couldn’t fit one on my existing cabinet without a significant rebuild. Finally, I settled on a Sony 4K Projector (VPL-VW-290ES). With a ceiling height of just under 2.8 metres I was able to add a 130” 16:9 screen. I also upgraded the amplifier to a Denon AVC-X3700H, added a Panasonic HDD Recorder (DMR-HWT260), Google TV (has the same Android interface as the Sony TV) and a Sony Ultra HD Blu-ray player (UPB-X800). Finally installing a couple of Polk 6.5” P/V60 in ceiling speakers for ATMOS. The configuration is now 7.5.2. Refining the experience The room was never originally designed for this kind of use. It has a large window, a slightly odd shape and glass panel doors. I’ve replaced the carpet with a thicker underlay, added darker curtains, doors seals and added full block-out tint on the doors. As a result, it’s a much quieter room that’s almost completely dark. The Full Setup 130" (16:9) screen Sony 4K projector (VPL-VW290ES) Denon AV Amplifier (AVC-X3700H) Behringer Ultradrive Pro (DCX2496) Crown Amplifier (XLS1002) Crown Amplifier (XLS2502) Panasonic HDD Recorder (DMR-HWT260) Sony Ultra HD Blu-ray player (UPB-X800) Google TV Sony PlayStation 5 Klipsch K/RP160M Bookshelf Speakers (Front L/R) Klipsch K/RP250C Bookshelf Speaker (Centre) Altronics 6.5” In Ceiling (Rear L/R, Centre Rear L/R) (C0874) Polk 6.5 In Ceiling L/R (ATMOS) (P/V60) Alpine Type X 12” - Subwoofer (custom passive) x2 (X-W12D4) Alpine Type R 12” - Tapped Horn Subwoofer (custom passive) x2 (R-W12D2) Dayton 18” Audio - Subwoofer (custom passive) (DCS450-4) Logitech Harmony Elite Lessons Learnt I have to stop myself from going too far…but I’ve probably already crossed than line a long time back. The only thing that’s crossed my mind is adding four more ATMOS speakers, which would require a bigger amplifier (any recommendations welcome). This has been an iterative process over several years. As I had no idea what could be achieved at the beginning, I wouldn’t change anything. Bass is more important than you might think. While you might not go as far as I have, I’d suggest at least two. This’ll smooth things out. And take care where you place your subwoofers, as the right locations will make a huge difference to the result. Consider acoustics with aesthetics. While the audiophile purist will likely try every conceivable trick to keep the sound clean, you should consider the limitations of the room, and its décor. Also, remember, loud isn’t always better. A soundtrack that sounds muddy or harsh isn’t good. If you can, have someone calibrate your sound system and the screen. Use quality components where you can: banana plugs, cables, wall plates. Consider Ethernet instead of Wi-Fi. Think about door and window seals (they can vibrate a fair bit). Finally, I would say if you have the luxury of being able to design from scratch, plan carefully, spend wisely, and have fun doing it.

Hi everyone its been a little while since writing on these forums, however I have had the privilege to be able to officially get hold of a paradigm defiance subwoofer and review it for over a month and see what it has to offer for its price. so here I go. Paradigm is known for there great sounding speakers, I've personally listened to them and have always commended their sound quality, however I was courious to see how their subs would perform given a price tag of about $999, that's where the defiance V10 comes in. This subwoofer is the latest generation of subs that paradigm has to offer which is part of the 'V' series of subwoofers in the defiance range, paradigm also offers an upgraded series of subwoofers in the defiance range called the 'X' series, in which those subwoofers feature more power and includes a bigger 15" subwoofer model in the range. Features: The Defiance V10 features a front firing 10" driver (hence the name 'V10') in a ported enclosure, however unlike some subwoofers such as the Krix Seismix 3 MK7 or the SVS PB-1000 which features the port in front, the V10 features it on the bottom of the sub making it a down ported configuration which usually means that the type of floor can affect the way this subwoofer would perform. On the back of the V10 is a 120 watt rms/ 240 watt peak amplifier, it features two low level rca inputs with one of them being an LFE input ( this input bypasses the sub's internal crossover to allow full crossover control from an AV Receiver/Processor), the V10 also features high level speaker inputs as well, however it only accepts banana plugs and not just bare wire. The V10 has a power mode switch and a setting to switch between local and app control for the V10, speaking of apps, the V10 is app controlled via the "Paradigm Subwoofer Control" app, which allows full control of the subwoofer on a smart device from your seat and because the V10 features Anthem's ARC room correction via a separate app ("Anthem ARC Mobile"), you have the option of either using your phone as the set-up microphone or you can get the optional dedicated microphone. Setup: I had the V10 setup with my Polk Signature speakers which is configured as a 5.1.2 Dolby atmos/ DTS X, I had the S20 bookself speakers as my fronts, the S30 as the centre and two pairs of S10's in which one pair does surround and the other pair does the height Dolby atmos/ DTS X effects. the AV receiver powering up the whole system is a Yamaha RX-V1083 (same as RX-A1070) with the Sony UBP-X700 as the media source. As far as crossovers go, I had the front three speakers set to 80Hz and the surrounds and effects channels set to 90Hz. I connected the V10 via the LFE input and had the sub placed between the left and centre speaker as that was where the V10 like most of my subs performed best. I did the rest of the set-up for the V10 using the apps and ran the Anthem ARC room correction via "Anthem ARC Mobile" using my Samsung Galaxy A20 mobile device as my set-up microphone (not the most accurate way to set-up the sub, but it was good enough), then I went into the " Paradigm Subwoofer Control" app where I had the level set to '-12" (the range is -40 to +8 I believe) and the phase was at 0 degrees, I didn't set the crossover as I already connected the sub to LFE. Performance: After the setup and calibration, I decided to play some music content (in stereo mode 2.1ch) starting with "Phil Collins live at Montreux 2004" on standard Blu-ray to see how well the V10 can reproduce the sound of drums and see how well it can handle the complexity of two drum sets, overall the V10 performed very admirably, thanks to the Anthem ARC room correction, each kick drum was reproduced clean and tight without any noticeable overhang and complexity of the drums was handled nicely with each hit sounding well defined without sounding like a one note wonder, it doesn't have as much kicking energy as the Krix Seismix 3 MK7, but it still remains cleaner than the SVS PB-1000. When playing "In the air tonight" and the bass played, the V10 gave a very satisfying performance where it made a nice transfer of bass energy into my listening area almost giving the impression that I was there, once again the V10 still playing clean but smooth, I played other music content as well such as; Nils Lofgren (bass and drum solo), Dire Straits (money for nothing), Bee Gees (live by request: massachusetts) and Lifehouse (hanging by a moment). Throughout listening to music the V10 performed consistently well and I didn't feel that the V10 needed any further adjustment for improvement in its music playback, so that's a big thumbs up to Anthem's ARC room correction. After finishing with music, it was movie time and for that I started with "BumbleBee" on Ultra HD Blu-ray, I watched the whole movie and all the while observing how well the V10 can handle 'LFE' effects. The V10 produced some satisfying effects, rumbling effects sounded quite convincing with some good punch and soundtracks sounded nice and cinematic and it was quite exciting to listen to, particularly the fight scene between BumbleBee and Dropkick and Shatter, punches and kicks as well as blaster fire shots were reproduced solidly and they didn't sound like the same bass thud, they sounded separate making it easy to tell the difference between a blaster gun and a punch. I then moved on to "Finding Nemo" to where Marlin and Dory are inside a whale, in this scene are some aggressive rumbles when the whale stops and when the whale is talking to Dory, this scene has plagued some subs that I've had in the past sometimes producing a lot of port noise or the woofer would bottom out, however the V10 handled it pretty good, I did have my ear near the port as well to see if there was port noise and I couldn't detect it. I did also play some other movies such as; Transformers (the last knight), Kong Skull Island, Godzilla (king of monsters), Star Wars (the phantom menace) and Tron (Legacy). In all those movies the V10 performed quite solidly, however it wasn't without issue though and this is probably due to the 120wrms amplifier, it doesn't handle dynamics as well as some of the more higher powered competitors in the same price range, this is especially the case when playing "Transformers (the last knight)" and "Godzilla (king of monsters)" where big explosions at times can sound a little underwhelming and if you push the sub level any higher to hear those big explosions to a more satisfactory level it will compress and it is noticeable. Competition: Krix Seismix 3 MK7: this is currently the sub that I own and have always been impressed by its overall performance, so how does it compare to the Paradigm Defiance V10? well in terms of features, the V10 is the way to go if you want app control capabilities and a good range of inputs including high level inputs, which the Seismix 3 MK7 does not have and the V10 has room correction whereas the Seismix 3 MK7 doesn't have that, however if great overall power and performance is what you are looking for then the tables do turn in favour of the Seismix 3 MK7, it has 350 watts rms whereas the V10 only has 120 watts rms and despite the advantage of room correction the Seismix 3 MK7 did better overall, while the V10 did well in music playback, the Seismix 3 MK7 did it better, it had more energy to give and was more engaging, but at the same time its clean and tight. when it came to movies the Seismix 3 MK7 did way better than the V10 mainly because of the power difference which means Seismix 3 MK7 didn't compress at high volume or with high dynamic effects like the V10 did. SVS PB-1000: being a previous owner of a PB-1000, I know that If great movie performance is what you are looking for then it has to be the PB-1000, it has more power then the Paradigm Defiance V10 (300 watts rms vs 120 watts rms) and due to this power difference the PB-1000 like the Seismix 3 MK7 would not compress at higher volume like the V10 did and the PB-1000 does go a bit lower as well, but once again if high tech features, room correction and musicality is what you are after then between the PB-1000 and the V10, its going to be the V10, it plays cleaner and tighter than the PB-1000 and has a bit better definition as well. Yamaha NS-SW300: I use to own the NS-SW300 and in terms of looks it does make a statement for itself, this subwoofer covers all the basics well in terms of features, it even has high level speaker inputs and outputs, but Paradigm Defiance V10 does once again have app control and room correction and it does show when come to the sound, it sounds way cleaner and tighter than the NS-SW300 which translate to better musical performance. When it comes to movies as well the V10 does better than the NS-SW300, its more cinematic and sounds goes a bit lower as well whereas the NS-SW300 sounds like its struggling to hit lower frequencies at high volume below 35Hz and starts rattling pretty badly when trying to hit those lower frequencies. Conclusion: Overall the Paradigm Defiance V10 is quite a nice subwoofer, it has some great features and I'd definitely called it a smart subwoofer given that it has smart device app control and an excellent Anthem ARC room correction system which in turn made the V10 a solid musical performer and it does quite well in movies, however for almost the same price you can more powerful offerings from other brands that may be better especially for movie content that has a heavy demand in the LFE effects. Pros: > App control >Room correction >Solid music performance >High level inputs Cons: > Only 120 watts RMS > struggles with movies at high volume and high dynamics > competition offers more power for similar price

Further information: I have a white Sunfire HRS-8 sub. In great condition (does have a small mark on top of the grill) Never over driven, perfect working condition. Main reason for selling is the wife has lost hours at work and in uncertain times, toys need to go. Being these retail for $1599 at digital cinema, the price is really cheap $25 donation when sold Link: https://www.digitalcinema.com.au/sunfire-hrs-8-subwoofer.html Pickup Oxenford Photos:

Further information: Selling my Brand new SVS Ultra 16 SB Sub as ive come to the realisation its way to big for my home setup! This sub is an absolute monster and will blow you away with its 5000watt amp! Condition is as new, not a mark on it. Has less than 10hrs play time on it, not even broken in yet. Has all original paperwork and accessories with nearly 5 yrs left on the warranty for peace of mind. I still have the original packing. This is a great sub which I will miss!! Pick up is preferred but can post using a courier. Will not be cheap to post as its huge and weighs over 66kgs packed up. Can audition before buying for local buyers. Any Qs please let me know. PLEASE READ If you are advertising multiple items, you must post one bulk price only, or post seperate ads for each item If you include any reference to pricing whatsoever in this section (excluding RRP), your ad will not be approved If you don't include photographs of the actual item being sold, your ad will not be approved

The condition of these subwoofers are good considering their age (especially the Mx-125). I am the original owner of the MX-125 and the MX-105 was purchased from a member on these forums. The 105 has some damage on the cloth grill and some minor marks on the top as shown on the photos. When powering it on and off it makes a thud sound but if you leave it on then it's fine (the power cord is wrapped around something that I believe is supposed to suppress the thump but does not seem to help). I'd prefer a quick pickup due to Covid but can audition if you really want.

Hi everyone, back again with another subwoofer review, a couple of months ago I decided to change out my Krix Seismix 3 MK7 with the model up, which is the Tektonix to see if there was any differences or improvements to see if it can be called an upgrade. So here's my review; Features: As far as I'm concerned its not typical for a manufacturer to use the same enclosure from one model to create a higher model, this is the case for the Tektonix where it uses the exact enclosure that the Seismix 3 MK7, as well as this the Tektonix uses what appears to be the same driver unit as the Seismix 3 MK7, so far then things don't look significantly different until we talk about the amplifier. The amplifier fitted to the Tektonix is the major difference on this unit, where the Seismix 3 MK7 uses a 350 watt rms amplifier, the Tektonix uses Krix's KDSA 450 watt rms amplifier which is also found on the bigger units such as; the Volcanix, Volcanix Slim and Cyclonix (powered). I really like that the Tektonix like the bigger units has the LCD display on the front which makes things a lot easier when it comes to making adjustments especially if you don't like to keep moving your sub to make those adjustments, speaking of adjustments the Tektonix has quite a fair amount of it including; level, crossover, auto sense or 12v trigger option, auto sense sensitivity, Q adjust, set-up lock to stop unwanted adjustment. On the back of the Tektonix amplifier we have; 12v trigger input, rca sub inputs L and R ( L is for Mono LFE connection in this case), High Level inputs and IEC power input with switch. Set-up: I have recently during my time with the Tektonix have made some changes to my home theatre system, so as far as sources go the AV receiver I'm using with my theatre system is my recenlty bought Yamaha RX-V2085 (RX-A2080 equivilent) with the Sony UBP-X700 4K blu-ray player and a Marantz CD5005 (which I recently for $50 and repaired). As for speakers, I'm using a pair of (also recently bought) Fyne Audio F302's as my fronts, Polk Signature S30 as my centre and 2 pairs of Polk signature S10's for surround and Dolby Atmos/DTS-X effects. I left the level on the Tektonix at '-20' with the crossover at 'LFE' and because I was using 12v trigger I set the option from 'auto sense' to '12v trigger', I left the 'Q' on default which is '0.9' and phase was set for my area as '180' and that was all that was done on the unit itself, on the AVR I had my front speakers and subwoofer level set at '-6' with the centre at '-4' and surround set at '-5' with the heights set at '-2', crossovers on the AVR were set to '80Hz' for the Front three speakers and for the other speakers were set at '90Hz'. The Tektonix was positioned between my front left and my centre speaker with a couple of inches away from my wall. Performance: I started my listening test with some music to see how musical the Tektonix, so I played Pink Floyd's "Comfortably Numb" and noted straight away that this sub can easily do music, bass notes were flowing nicely with every beat sounding clear and tight with the right amount of punch that was not over exaggerated or boomy, I then played "Peaceful Easy Feeling" live by the Eagles and like playing Pink Floyd the Tektonix really did an amazing job of blending in with my front speakers and not standing out from them, but at the same time it gave the music that really nice realistic dimension to the sound, kick drums and bass guitar notes sounded seperated and very well defined, after the Eagles I played more wide range of music content and every time the Tektonix proved to be a great sub for music, staying tuneful and controlled even at high volumes without me having a second thought about the sound. As for movies I played a lot of movies such as; "Star Wars: Rise of Skywalker", "Aquaman", "Tron: Legacy" and "Avengers: Infinity War", to be honest I was really suprised because the Tektonix performed so well, it didn't just put out deep bass effects, on top of all that, every crash, thud, boom and crunch had great realism, dimension and dynamics to the sound and the Tektonix can go really loud if it has to, I have to say I am blown away to see a sub such as this do what it does especially given that it is not the size of some really big subs (svs) that I know of. The funny thing about the Tektonix is that even with all that power and performance in a smaller enclosure, I never once detected any port noise which is generally typical of many ported subs which shows that the engineering behind the Tektonix is fantastic. Comparison: Krix Tektonix price for comparison: (RRP $1745) Krix Seismix 3 Mk7 (RRP $1295): a lot of people that I know of have asked me if the Tektonix is any different from the Seismix 3 MK7 mainly because they both have the same cabinet and the short answer is yes there are some difference in terms of sound, firstly especially for movies where you get a lot of LFE, while the Seismix 3 MK7 has some good depth, the Tektonix takes it to another level where it sounds even deeper with a greater sense of scale, but at the same time it sounds a bit more realistic and dynamics are a bit better too, while for music while both subs sound quite close, the Tektonix adds a bit more definition and sounds a little bit wider in the frequency spectrum to me than the Seismix 3 MK7 especially when listening to content with pipe organs. The Seismix 3 MK7 is still an excellent subwoofer within it's price range especially when compared to many subs around the same price, but obviously because the Tektonix is above the Seismix 3 MK7 in terms of product and price range, there really should be some differences anyway or else in my personal opinion it's not worth the upgrade. Klipsch SPL-120 (RRP $1999) : I got the chance to hear this subwoofer and its an ok subwoofer, it goes loud and it goes quite deep, but its not very musical so I would not recommended it for many cases where you are listening to music with a sub, the Tektonix is very superior in every way compared to the SPL-120 for music and even for movies while the SPL-120 is very loud and dynamic, but it doesn't sound as cinematic as the Tektonix does. SVS PB-2000 (RRP $1750) : I do like svs subwoofers especially given the price to performance ratio, so how does the PB-2000 compare to the Tektonix, well the PB-2000 surely goes deeper than the Tektonix and because the PB-2000 has a bigger driver, it can also go louder and it sounds quite cinematic, however when it comes to realism I feel the Tektonix gives more of it and is more cinematic while at the same time keeping a big scale sound and when it comes to music, the PB-2000 is pretty good, but can sound a bit slow and slightly boomy with certain music content, whereas the Tektonix sounds quicker and more tuneful and of course if size matters the PB-2000 is way bigger than the Tektonix, the SB-2000 and even the Volcanix. Richter Thor 10.6 (RRP $1699): I have always had a liking towards Richter subwoofers, but the 10.6 definitely gives the Tektonix a run for its money and all I can say is that both subs do extremely well in both music and movies, in fact its a hard to pick one over the other for there performance, but if you do value features then they do differ in that area, the Thor 10.6 has dsp control for music, home theatre and merlin mode. whereas the Tektonix doesn't and all the controls on the Thor 10.6 are on the back of the unit, whereas the Tektonix has control on an LCD display on the front of the unit. The Richter Thor 10.6 unlike the Tektonix has an XLR balance input and XLR balance pass-through along with the usual RCA and high level inputs. Conclusion: Overall I have to say that I really like the Krix Tektonix, it does everything that a good subwoofer should do and given the size of this unit, it will fit in many places, while putting out excellent bass sound for movies, music and even gaming content, now of course I had the Seismix 3 MK7 prior to the Tektonix and would I say that this is an upgrade? It sure is, In fact I liked the Tektonix so much that I actually purchased a second unit because well, how can you go wrong with that.

Item: 2x VAF DC-S subwoofers Location: Brunswick VIC Price: $350 for both (and open to offers!) Price drop: now $200 for both Item Condition: technically great cosmetically ok Reason for selling: bought some smaller ones Payment Method: Pickup - Cash, Paypal, Extra Info: 430mm x 430mm x 430mm I have them on casters for convenience. The vinyl cover was quite scratched and worn so I have repainted them. The sound is very good, they keep up easily with my main speakers that operate at about 118db at 1m. As advised by the previous owner: "one of the subs had a new plate amp installed by VAF a few years back". I found the following on the archived VAF website: The VAF DC-S Active Subwoofer has been designed to provide true Audiophile bass performance in a compact unit. Pitch definition, texture and transient response are superior to other products in its class. Low distortion and clear, detailed sound have been achieved, even at levels in excess of those required for domestic listening. Description Bandpass enclosure type features Hypersoft foam internal damping material. 2 x VAF 210mm woofer withfibreglass cones exhibiting low mass, high rigidity and large excursion capability. Advanced Class AB Power Amplifier delivering 180 Watts RMS and featuring a sophisticated control circuit and auto on/off. Second order low pass filter with acoustic crossover frequency continuously adjustable between 40Hz and 125Hz. Application The VAF DC-S Active Subwoofer is suitable for extending the frequency response of all speakers and enhancing the maximum Low Frequency SPL of an existing High Quality audio system for premium quality home theatre. The DC-S is the ideal choice for use in high quality systems where maximum sound quality is required from a unit of reasonable size and cost. MAIN FEATURES: High Output: Over 100dB at all passband frequencies. -3dB at 27Hz. Flat Frequency Response: +/-0.5dB over the pass band. Lower -3dB point at 27Hz, upper -3dB point variable. Easy to Place Flexible Control Adjustments: Ensure good sound when placed in various locations in the listening room. Low Stored Energy: For tight, clear bass without significant 'overhang'. ] .

Hi, I am looking to get a subwoofer for my 2 channel stereo system. My listening room size is about W 4.6m * L 8m * H 3m. I usually listen to classic, jazz and pop at moderate volume. I am considering SVS SB-13 Ultra or Rythmik Audio F15. Which one is more suitable for my room size and music types? Any other better options in this price range? Thanks, Kai

It is many years since i was "up to date" with makes and models and performances on Hi-Fi equipment. However i have built a home entertainment room / movie theatre....5M x 4M x normal ceiling height 2,.?M I have purcased a DENON 4311....already had Aaron ATS-4 front and centres......i am looking to buy a good subwoofer and have been looking seriously at the VELODYNE1200 / KRIX TECTONIX and HSU RANGE I love all the features of the Velodyne - but i am starting to re-gain experience after 25+ years....i am confusing myself - the DENON self calibrates..am i "over doing" things by buying a self calibrating sub ? However i do not wish to keep "fiddling" behind a sub every time i switch from movies to music etc With you guys probably having greater knowledge and experience can you help me with your experience to select a best value for money sub to suit my system.....up to $1900 (reluctantly !!) I also was about to buy a Sharp 70" LED yesterday - until i saw it next to an outstanding LG 65" at run out prices.....again can anyone help ? TV usage will be day and night viewing Thanks

Item: REL S2 Subwoofer Location:Brisbane Price: $1500 Item Condition: As new Reason for selling: moving to larger room Payment Method: Pickup - Cash, Bank Wire, COD Only Extra Info: This sub goes quite low and is fast with good resolution and texture.10" active driver with a 10" passive radiator. The 'S' series is REL's 2nd from top line G series... Sub is $2500 new and only been played about 30 hours (2 months) as I've never been home. Free personal delivery to SEQ area Pictures:

Did quick search and found this thread from 2014: Kind of answers my query but I'm still a bit confused - if someone here can rephrase it slightly? Basically I picked up an identical twin sub from crap converters for a ree dic you lus sum of money - 90 bucks and no that's not a typo. A Sonique Thunderbox 1200 in far better condition than the one I currently have.... The second sub now sits on the other side of the LH speaker below the waterfall photo. I've daisy chained it from existing one via a 5m RCA interconnect - line out to line in. I think I've managed to blend the two pretty evenly, mucked around with the 0/180 phasing and found it sounds best when both of them are an exact match.....why this is I'm not sure. I set the crossover rolloff fairly low, about 50hz give or take (because I'm sure this isn't an absolute drop off, it's simply the point where the sound starts attenuating). And because I'm now running twins, I've dropped the overall volume on both to compensate. The improvement was immediate. It's simply fattened everything up but not at the expense of sharpness or imaging. Sound simply pours into the room completely free of stress. My question: Is there an alternate way to hook them up? My preamp has dual preouts but one is already fed directly to the power amp, the other is for sub duties. I didn't want to run a Y-splitter from the pre to each sub as it would reduce the impedance each sub receives.

Item:Dual SVS SB 2000 subwoofers Price Range:1700 Item Condition: New or Used Extra Info: Gloss black finish, in the Melbourne area. Please don't forget to report your post as FOUND when possible. (You can delete this text before pressing Submit).