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Found 12 results

  1. Hello all, just wondering if anyone might be able to shed some light on this issue. I have an older Samsung Plasma TV (PS-63P71FDX), and whenever I am running a device with its output set to 1080p, it shows this noise in the image on the panel. I've tested with a standalone blu-ray player, ps3, ps4 and a wdtv. Switching it back to 1080i solves the issue, but just wondering if anyone has any ideas what might be causing it? I've attached a video of the issue in action. I've also tried numerous different HDMI cables, connecting devices straight to the TV instead of through my receiver (Onkyo SR605) and still have the same issue. Cheers! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yH6W_XD5ZIQ
  2. My big Kenwood deck is putting out a lot of Electronic noise , I suppose it could be described as a wiring sound. I have swapped phono stages and cartridges without any change i have also applied deoxit. When the cartridge is half way in it is quieter, but of course that’s not much use i am hoping someone can shed some light here
  3. I recently bought a new record on eBay that has a fair bit of surface noise and a repeated click across the majority of side A. I gave it a glue clean to no avail, it sounds identical, so it's fair to say that I'm very dissatisfied with it; particularly since the comments on discogs about this pressing were quite positive, a couple of people specifically mentioning it as being low noise. The thing is, it would pass as NM to a visual inspection, but I wouldn't feel confident grading it anything higher than VG in listening. Do I contact my eBay seller for a refund or replacement? I do buy a lot of CDs and records from them and this is the first time I think I've been dissatisfied with what I've received. Do I chase it up with the label instead, seeing as it's not really the seller's fault? Paying $36 for a new record only for it to sound crap isn't right. My only reservation is I don't have a way of demonstrating it.
  4. I haven't started a thread in ages, probably because they are about as popular as a fart in the lift, and deservedly so. Whatever. So, on the back of one vote in the currently spinning thread, I am starting a noise (music) thread. I choose to start the thread, , , , now Orchestra of Constant Distress 2016 LP on 8mm Records Minimal musical content, maximal volume and distortion. This album is the first of three (so far) by this band that is 50% made up of the remains of Skull Defekts, a recently defunkt Scandinavian noise-rock band. This is really good shiz, so get it up ya, noisesters.
  5. Evening, I recently purchased a Pro-ject debut of a fellow member and have been using it frequently for past 2 months. ( turntable originally purchased in 2010 ) I noticed today a slight buzzing sound coming from the motor which i had not noticed before. The sound is not audible through speakers and when the music is playing you cant hear it. But when loading up a record you can hear it faintly, and i know its there so it bugs me. Im thinking was it there the whole time and i just didnt notice, but im thinking no that its a recent development. If anyone knows what the problem could be and a solution i would be very greatful..... Chris
  6. I've just set up my first vinyl rig. I have a Rega RP3 with an Ortofon Blue 2M (both lightly used). All of my records are brand new. I have not cleaned any of my records, just given them a few revolutions underneath a carbon fibre brush before play. There is definitely some surface noise on all of my records.. what I'm wondering is whether it is outside the normal amount of noise to expect from vinyl. Sometimes there is a light pop or crackle every 5-15 seconds, other times the album will be silent for a track or two. The pops and crackles don't bother me too much, but of course I'd like to minimise them. I have aligned the cartridge using a Rega Stevenson arc protractor, adjusted the counterweight so that the tonearm floats, tracking force measured at 1.82g on digital scales, anti-skate set to around 1 (a lot of people feel that the bias for the Rega arms should be under adjusted). I have tried a range of different values for the anti-skate, but this position seemed to work best. I have experimented with a few different settings but this is where the pops and crackles seem to be minimised. Is it a case of fine-tuning these adjustments until the surface noises go away completely? Or do I just need to accept a certain amount of noise on vinyl? If so, what level of surface noise should I be aiming for? A few pops per track? There are also a few other things I could address.. the turntable is currently on a glass shelving unit (though it is the bottom shelf which is in contact with carpet). I am trying to find a piece of slate or wood that the turntable can sit on. The phono leads are too short for it to sit on the Ikea Lack table next to the TV unit. I know a lot of you clean your vinyl religiously, but I'm not that keen on cleaning my vinyl unless it's absolutely necessary. Would it be worth getting the cartridge and turntable adjusted at a hi-fi shop? I'm 99% sure that I have everything roughly the way it should be.
  7. Dear All, I've had a Sansui 1000X receiver for a year or so and it has a long standing "white noise/hiss" problem in one channel, this occurs all the time even when the volume is turned right down. I recently linked the Sansui 1000X pre-amp out into the main in of another amp and it sounded great - no hiss whatsoever. I am now thinking of repairing the amp, I assume a re-cap of the main amp board(s) rather than pre amp is in order but I was just wondering if there could be another cause. I don't know much but read somewhere that the output transistors could also be a problem. Would anyone out there have an informed opinion on this. Best regards Mark
  8. After reading this article page 9 and 10 http://hometheaterhifi.com/technical-articles-and-editorials/technical-articles-and-editorials/options-by-supplier-and-price.html that @:)al pointed out I found it interesting that most 24 bits DAC's will have less than 24 effective bits left due to noise levels. Makes you wonder what the point is of high res audio.
  9. I have added an NAD 2200 into my system, changing my NAD 302 into a pure pre-amp by removing the pre-out / main-in connects and connecting the pre-out to the inputs on the 2200, as well as moving my speakers over. The problem is I have huge electrical noise coming through from my PC - is anyone able to help? Things I have gone through: PC, NAD 302 and Nad 2200 + 2 pc monitors share an 8 outlet powerboard (http://www.dealsdirect.com.au/huntkey-8-way-powerboard-surge-protection-black/) Plugged 302 / 2200 into different power outlet from PC = noise increased PC Sound card is an Asus Xonar Essence STX sound card (Xonar) with 2 rca outputs Nad 302 pre/amplifier Nad 2200 power amp Dali 400 speakers Xonar > 302 > Dali's = No noise Xonar > 302 pre-amp out (turned OFF) to > 2200 (turned ON) > Dali's = huge noise Xonar > 302 pre-amp out (turned ON) to > 2200 (turned ON) > Dali's = even more noise Xonar > 2200 direct > Dali's = medium noise If I remove the rca's from the PC all of the electrical noise disappears - it's quite obviously the PC as when the harddrives go or it startups it's the electrical noises 'amplified' har har. Tested it with 3.5mm iphone headphone jack to RCA into > 302 pre-amp > 2200 > Dali's = no noise (with the interconnect to the pc removed) Swapped each rca cable on each channel = no difference Used different rca cables = no difference Used different rca interconnect = no difference I've bought a ground loop isolator from ebay to put inline from the Xonar rca output to the line-in on the pre-amp (or maybe the interconnect between the pre-amp and the 2200?) - http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/290843874171?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649 which will arrive in a few days. Other then that.. have reconnected the speakers to the 302 and the pc and it's absolutely silent again. On a slightly amusing side note, I've realised its impossible to use the headphone output on the 302 when its a pre-amp, so aside from having a $400ish 2200 anvil unless I get this ground loop figured out (I'm guessing its a ground loop? That's what I've been googling) I'm looking to immediately get a NAD 372 so I can go back to plugging my headphones in when required.
  10. I've got a cd player that emits a buzzing sound via its analogue outs. I've tried turning off everything in the flat and nothing seems to stop it. I even get the buzzing sound with the cd player turned off and unplugged! (from the mains I mean, obviously the analogue outs are still plugged in) Anyone got any ideas as to what could be causing this? Because I'm stumped.
  11. Hi, I am planning the build of an HT room, w 3.4m x l 4.75m x h 2.5m. The front (viewing) wall is connected to the garage, the right wall is facing outside, the left wall is for the bigger part connected to the bathroom, has the door opening and is in a small part connected to a cupboard in the hallway, the back wall is connected to my kids bedroom. The walls are double brick with an air gap between them and will "absorb" -20dB on average. The roof is an exposed timber ceiling with a sheet metal roof and 100mm of insulation in between. I would like to soundproof/insulate the room for late night movie watching since this is the only time of day I have the time to do so, and after doing some research come up with a first plan. Wall coverage: 7mm of ply, 3mm of "acoustic" rubber, 10mm of plasterboard. Gluing studs to the brick wall with something like Green Glue, nailing the ply to these studs, staple the acoustic rubber to the play, screw the plasterboard into the studs. Back Wall coverage: The same as the above but with more space in between for some extra insulation bats for added soundproofing. Ceiling: Not sure. Could use the same system as the walls, but the question is how much sound would travel to other rooms via the ceiling? Floor: Thick carpet on concrete slab. Window: Heavy curtain Door: Solid door plus seals. Would a "second" door on top of that improve things more? With the "acoustic" rubber, I am very tempted to go with the timber floor underfloor type than with a pro version. The pro version is astonishing expensive, but a whole lot heavier as well. I prefer to glue the studs to the brick wall instead of using whisper clips, because it would make my life a whole lot easier. There is also a product on the market that is build up from 2 sheets of plasterboard with different thickness and decoupling layer of some kind which looks more like a foam/fury type than a rubber type of material. I plan to go for the heavier acoustic type of plasterboard instead of the regular one. How effective would something like this be, considering it would be air tight? Would this allow me to watch a movie at 65dB or more without waking the family. Love to hear your 2 cents or experience on this.
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