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  1. Hi, I've recently moved house and it has 5 of these Bose speakers installed in the living room which I'd like to make use of: Cables Can anyone identify the series for these speakers or know how I can find out? After doing some research it looks like they could be Acoustimass 6 series, but I'm not 100% sure. Also the speakers are all I have so I assume that I need to find the matching subwoofer / amp. Any recommendations of where I can source one? Thanks
  2. Hi Guys, I'm new around here but I was hoping for some help/suggestions. I am looking to add a home theatre system to my TV, what I am after basically is a system that I can play my TV through, connect my phone via bluetooth and play the radio. With my current TV/TV unit setup I do not have room for a soundbar which I considered looking into. I had also thought about full surround but could not really put together any systems in my price range (under $1000...I know this is low but for the amount of use they would get I can't really justify more). So my latest thought was getting a tuner with two large floor speakers (similar to these https://www.kogan.com/au/buy/pioneer-single-floorstand-loudspeaker-designed-by-andrew-jones-spfs52-pioneer/) and maybe a subwoofer. If any of you could throw any better ideas or options for tuners as I have very little idea about whats best with them, that would be awesome, thanks. Ryn
  3. Hi there guys, as the title says this is my first home theatre setup and I really don't feel like I know what I'm doing at all. I'm posting here so hopefully someone can guide me on my purchasing decisions from here on out! What I'm looking at buying right now is the following: Projector: Sony VPL-HW50es from the VideoPro ebay store Screen: 110" Majestic Evo Ultra Grey fixed screen The home theatre unfortunately has fairly light coloured walls which is why I've opted for the grey screen as I've heard that's better for situations where you cant completely control the light. Seating distance will be about 5m from the screen and the projector will be mounted at about 4.5m from the screen In particular I'm not so sure about the choice of screen and so critique on that would be much appreciated Thanks in advance!
  4. Hey guys, We are giving a bit back! Simply like us on facebook (to enter the competition) and post a picture of your home theatre or lounge room and go in the draw for your change to win a pair of awesome USHER S520 speakers. Cheers, Matt
  5. For sae: INTEGRA DTR-7.9 THX Ultra2 Plus, 2 Zone, 7.1 Channel Surround Receiver (Please bid on the ebay site as I may miss emails sent here, thanks) http://www.ebay.com....E:L:LCA:AU:1123 This is a link to the MF site: http://www.integraho...ss=Receiver&p=i The amp is clean and in perfect working order. It's We're switching to a Sonos system and don't need it any more. This DTR 7.9 isn't available anymore. The newer model that replaces it is the DTR 50-6, which retails at $2,295. It comes complete with power plug, remote and manual.
  6. Hi all I'm currently building a new home and need to make sure I setup my Media Room properly before the gyprock stage. Currently the framework is up and the room measures 4400 x 4000 (not ideal I know, but too late to make any adjustments). The plan is to have a TV on the wall for daily use (FOXTEL, kids tv etc) and then a drop down screen in front of the TV for movies/sports etc. Right now I want to make sure I wire up the room correctly - I envisage ethernet ports for TV, media hard drive, PS4 + one other and then HDMI wiring for TV, Foxtel, PS4, AV Amp & Projector. Power points in the ceiling for electric screen and projector and then power points for all the electircal equipment at ground level. Speaker wiring for a 5.1 setup + subwoofer wiring as well. Does that cover all the wiring at this stage? As the process continues I will need advice with regards to speaker and seating arrangement and also sound-proofing as well and can post some pics up as well soon. Many thanks for reading.
  7. Hey guys, Any suggestions on bean bags. I have got 2 recliners in the media room and 3 seater side wise, else it will block the screen for viewers behind due to height. I am thinking to put 2 bean bags. ( 1 big and 1 for kids). I could see a lot of them online, but will appreciate some feedback on particular ones if anyone has used. Cheers G
  8. I'm looking for a good quality AV receiver under A$500 that will work well with a sound bar? Also while I mention it, can anyone recommend a good sound bar brand?
  9. Hi all, If anyone is interested we are holding an exclusive invitation to a pre launch (prior to press/media/stockists) of the new BenQ W11000 4K UHD THX Home Theatre projector. We will have the W8000 1080P Home theatre projector on display also. Come down have a look and tell us what you think about our new additions to the BenQ lineup and have a chance to win some very cool prizes. **Venue: The Rialto Hotel 495 Collins Street Melbourne Vic Entry from Collins Street – Located in STOCK Room **When: Thursday 20th October **Time: 6:00PM to 8:00PM **Prizes: Write a review on our website on either the W8000 or W11000 and go in the draw for a chance to win a BenQ WIT Lamp valued at $299 Write a review on DTV Forum / StereoNet with a link back to our website and go in the draw for a chance to win a BenQ treVolo portable Electrostatic speaker valued at $399 Light Snacks provided. Let me know if you are coming and I will add your name to the list! PM me / or email at matt.walker at benq.com
  10. Thought I'd carry on this thread with the remainder of my build. My plan is to build a dedicated HT in a new house build some day. In the meantime I thought I'd build one in my current house as I've never used a projector before. In the thread I linked to I decided to get a JVC X7900. The idea was to experiment with screen size to see what sort of viewing angle I would like. From my research I thought I'd like a 45 degree viewing angle. So to keep things flexible I decided I was going to paint the wall with Black Widow or some sort of screen paint. This meant the doorway had to go. This is the room in its original state, just as we were moving in actually which is why it's so messy. It's about 6.3m L x 4.2m W x 2.4m H. Replaced the oyster lights with 6 of these down lights from Bunnings. And closed up the wall; tradies did at least.
  11. 2 grand off! Seems like a bargain for a high quality 11 channel AVR? Deal will end in 11.5 days. Edit: I took on face value the '7.1.4' in the description of this unit, but after closer inspection it's a 7 channel AVR, so I don't know where they get the .4 bit
  12. Hi everyone its been a little while since writing on these forums, however I have had the privilege to be able to officially get hold of a paradigm defiance subwoofer and review it for over a month and see what it has to offer for its price. so here I go. Paradigm is known for there great sounding speakers, I've personally listened to them and have always commended their sound quality, however I was courious to see how their subs would perform given a price tag of about $999, that's where the defiance V10 comes in. This subwoofer is the latest generation of subs that paradigm has to offer which is part of the 'V' series of subwoofers in the defiance range, paradigm also offers an upgraded series of subwoofers in the defiance range called the 'X' series, in which those subwoofers feature more power and includes a bigger 15" subwoofer model in the range. Features: The Defiance V10 features a front firing 10" driver (hence the name 'V10') in a ported enclosure, however unlike some subwoofers such as the Krix Seismix 3 MK7 or the SVS PB-1000 which features the port in front, the V10 features it on the bottom of the sub making it a down ported configuration which usually means that the type of floor can affect the way this subwoofer would perform. On the back of the V10 is a 120 watt rms/ 240 watt peak amplifier, it features two low level rca inputs with one of them being an LFE input ( this input bypasses the sub's internal crossover to allow full crossover control from an AV Receiver/Processor), the V10 also features high level speaker inputs as well, however it only accepts banana plugs and not just bare wire. The V10 has a power mode switch and a setting to switch between local and app control for the V10, speaking of apps, the V10 is app controlled via the "Paradigm Subwoofer Control" app, which allows full control of the subwoofer on a smart device from your seat and because the V10 features Anthem's ARC room correction via a separate app ("Anthem ARC Mobile"), you have the option of either using your phone as the set-up microphone or you can get the optional dedicated microphone. Setup: I had the V10 setup with my Polk Signature speakers which is configured as a 5.1.2 Dolby atmos/ DTS X, I had the S20 bookself speakers as my fronts, the S30 as the centre and two pairs of S10's in which one pair does surround and the other pair does the height Dolby atmos/ DTS X effects. the AV receiver powering up the whole system is a Yamaha RX-V1083 (same as RX-A1070) with the Sony UBP-X700 as the media source. As far as crossovers go, I had the front three speakers set to 80Hz and the surrounds and effects channels set to 90Hz. I connected the V10 via the LFE input and had the sub placed between the left and centre speaker as that was where the V10 like most of my subs performed best. I did the rest of the set-up for the V10 using the apps and ran the Anthem ARC room correction via "Anthem ARC Mobile" using my Samsung Galaxy A20 mobile device as my set-up microphone (not the most accurate way to set-up the sub, but it was good enough), then I went into the " Paradigm Subwoofer Control" app where I had the level set to '-12" (the range is -40 to +8 I believe) and the phase was at 0 degrees, I didn't set the crossover as I already connected the sub to LFE. Performance: After the setup and calibration, I decided to play some music content (in stereo mode 2.1ch) starting with "Phil Collins live at Montreux 2004" on standard Blu-ray to see how well the V10 can reproduce the sound of drums and see how well it can handle the complexity of two drum sets, overall the V10 performed very admirably, thanks to the Anthem ARC room correction, each kick drum was reproduced clean and tight without any noticeable overhang and complexity of the drums was handled nicely with each hit sounding well defined without sounding like a one note wonder, it doesn't have as much kicking energy as the Krix Seismix 3 MK7, but it still remains cleaner than the SVS PB-1000. When playing "In the air tonight" and the bass played, the V10 gave a very satisfying performance where it made a nice transfer of bass energy into my listening area almost giving the impression that I was there, once again the V10 still playing clean but smooth, I played other music content as well such as; Nils Lofgren (bass and drum solo), Dire Straits (money for nothing), Bee Gees (live by request: massachusetts) and Lifehouse (hanging by a moment). Throughout listening to music the V10 performed consistently well and I didn't feel that the V10 needed any further adjustment for improvement in its music playback, so that's a big thumbs up to Anthem's ARC room correction. After finishing with music, it was movie time and for that I started with "BumbleBee" on Ultra HD Blu-ray, I watched the whole movie and all the while observing how well the V10 can handle 'LFE' effects. The V10 produced some satisfying effects, rumbling effects sounded quite convincing with some good punch and soundtracks sounded nice and cinematic and it was quite exciting to listen to, particularly the fight scene between BumbleBee and Dropkick and Shatter, punches and kicks as well as blaster fire shots were reproduced solidly and they didn't sound like the same bass thud, they sounded separate making it easy to tell the difference between a blaster gun and a punch. I then moved on to "Finding Nemo" to where Marlin and Dory are inside a whale, in this scene are some aggressive rumbles when the whale stops and when the whale is talking to Dory, this scene has plagued some subs that I've had in the past sometimes producing a lot of port noise or the woofer would bottom out, however the V10 handled it pretty good, I did have my ear near the port as well to see if there was port noise and I couldn't detect it. I did also play some other movies such as; Transformers (the last knight), Kong Skull Island, Godzilla (king of monsters), Star Wars (the phantom menace) and Tron (Legacy). In all those movies the V10 performed quite solidly, however it wasn't without issue though and this is probably due to the 120wrms amplifier, it doesn't handle dynamics as well as some of the more higher powered competitors in the same price range, this is especially the case when playing "Transformers (the last knight)" and "Godzilla (king of monsters)" where big explosions at times can sound a little underwhelming and if you push the sub level any higher to hear those big explosions to a more satisfactory level it will compress and it is noticeable. Competition: Krix Seismix 3 MK7: this is currently the sub that I own and have always been impressed by its overall performance, so how does it compare to the Paradigm Defiance V10? well in terms of features, the V10 is the way to go if you want app control capabilities and a good range of inputs including high level inputs, which the Seismix 3 MK7 does not have and the V10 has room correction whereas the Seismix 3 MK7 doesn't have that, however if great overall power and performance is what you are looking for then the tables do turn in favour of the Seismix 3 MK7, it has 350 watts rms whereas the V10 only has 120 watts rms and despite the advantage of room correction the Seismix 3 MK7 did better overall, while the V10 did well in music playback, the Seismix 3 MK7 did it better, it had more energy to give and was more engaging, but at the same time its clean and tight. when it came to movies the Seismix 3 MK7 did way better than the V10 mainly because of the power difference which means Seismix 3 MK7 didn't compress at high volume or with high dynamic effects like the V10 did. SVS PB-1000: being a previous owner of a PB-1000, I know that If great movie performance is what you are looking for then it has to be the PB-1000, it has more power then the Paradigm Defiance V10 (300 watts rms vs 120 watts rms) and due to this power difference the PB-1000 like the Seismix 3 MK7 would not compress at higher volume like the V10 did and the PB-1000 does go a bit lower as well, but once again if high tech features, room correction and musicality is what you are after then between the PB-1000 and the V10, its going to be the V10, it plays cleaner and tighter than the PB-1000 and has a bit better definition as well. Yamaha NS-SW300: I use to own the NS-SW300 and in terms of looks it does make a statement for itself, this subwoofer covers all the basics well in terms of features, it even has high level speaker inputs and outputs, but Paradigm Defiance V10 does once again have app control and room correction and it does show when come to the sound, it sounds way cleaner and tighter than the NS-SW300 which translate to better musical performance. When it comes to movies as well the V10 does better than the NS-SW300, its more cinematic and sounds goes a bit lower as well whereas the NS-SW300 sounds like its struggling to hit lower frequencies at high volume below 35Hz and starts rattling pretty badly when trying to hit those lower frequencies. Conclusion: Overall the Paradigm Defiance V10 is quite a nice subwoofer, it has some great features and I'd definitely called it a smart subwoofer given that it has smart device app control and an excellent Anthem ARC room correction system which in turn made the V10 a solid musical performer and it does quite well in movies, however for almost the same price you can more powerful offerings from other brands that may be better especially for movie content that has a heavy demand in the LFE effects. Pros: > App control >Room correction >Solid music performance >High level inputs Cons: > Only 120 watts RMS > struggles with movies at high volume and high dynamics > competition offers more power for similar price
  13. For the first time, I have a dedicated room for HT and Gaming and I have finally finished the acoustic treatment of the room. To create this space of 3.4 x 4.9 x 2.5 meter, I had to move the laundry, toilet and bathroom and knock some walls down. Yes…….. the missus really, really loves me. I had a look at soundproofing the room but decided to not go through with that idea, because the room was rather smallish to begin with and the build a bit complicated, with all the different walls and joist intersecting with each other and with the rest of the house. The room has a double brick outer wall with an air gap in between it, as the front and the right wall. The front wall also has a window in it behind the AT screen. The left wall is a solid double brick internal wall. The ceiling has a couple of 200mm exposed roof joist with some timber on top, 100mm insulation and a flat sheet metal roof. The back wall is newly constructed and is made out of 17mm plywood with 10mm gyprock on top, on both sides, with insulation in between. And the floor is a solid concrete slab. This room is rather solid and therefor rather challenging regarding bass issues. All treatment is DIY, and the total material cost for acoustic treatment is around $1100 AUD. The screen wall is a timber frame held up by corner (bass trapping) towers, resting on top of the floor boards, and locked into place by screwing it into the roof joists. It is sitting 550mm from the front wall and is basically functioning as one giant bass absorption trap with 50mm Autex High Density insulation. The wall around the screen has been finished with 6mm MDF sheets with a RPG binary pattern as a finish, and to bring some reflections back into the room. The area behind the AT screen is fully covered in insulation, except for the center speaker. The coverage of unexposed absorption of the front wall is roughly 60%. This improved clarity and sound stage a lot. It also helped with decay rates in the bass frequency. Enough to improve bass clarity, but not enough to even out the decay rate over the full LF frequency range. The bulk heads around the ceiling have been added on later and consist out of 10mm gyprock with more insulation behind them. The rest of the ceiling has been covered in a binary slat pattern that is hung from the 200mm exposed roof joist, and the space between the roof joist has been filled with more insulation again. The coverage of unexposed absorption on the ceiling is roughly 38% I found that this improved stage depth the most. The back of the room has been treated with panels made from the same 6mm MDF binary pattern and Autex insulation and have been mounted at various distances from the wall, 50-100-150mm. I had the mount one on a hinge as it was covering the door. I found this to be a big improvement in clarity and precision of tracking in sound effects. Thanks to clever placement of subwoofers and listen position I have been able to create a LF response for subs and full range front speakers, without any nulls and only need to cut off peaks to receive a flat SPL response. The frequency response of the decay times is less than flat due to the rooms solid build, but doesn’t kick in for the first 20ms, which isn’t too bad. All in all I am quite happy with the outcome, but isn’t my best work regarding finish, as I have favored speed instead of a quality finish.
  14. I’ve been running with 2 subs with a combined HT & 2 ch system for a while. As it’s working quite well, I’m naturally wondering if there is another, possibly better way of doing things. I’d be keen to hear from others who have integrated something similar, or from any thoughts people may have. To make it work from a HT side, I’ve set the AVR as ‘No Sub’ to force the LFE to the Main L+R. The CX3400 is set to x-over at 60hz My setup is :
  15. hi all - having a bit of brain fade but would appreciate your thoughts. so my front speakers are Cremona Auditor M's.... with a sensitivity of 88db/spl. My centre speaker is the Cremona (non-M version, but was too cheap to pass up!) with a sensitivity of 90db/spl. I've now only realised that the centre speaker in Sonus faber's Cremona line up, is matched (sensitivity wise) to the Cremona's - not the auditors (apparently people who want home theatre buy floorstanders). The obvious issue here, is that the sensitivity of the centre speaker makes it difficult to level match the left and right speakers. Yes of course there is a volume trim on the reciever (+ or - 10db) - but unfortunately, -10db still isn't enough for me to get a 75db reading on the SPL meter from the centre speaker (clearly 2db/spl is a big difference in terms of sensitivity!). Is there some way of externally altering a speakers sensitivity? I had a look at "L Pads" - but they look like they have to be soldered inside the speaker itself, which is not a route I want to take. The only solution I've found thus far, is turning down the main volume pot on the reciever to -2.5db whilst the test tones are being output (usually at 0db on the reciever) - and then dialling the other speakers up to match the centre (there is enough scope in the volume trim to get them up to match). In this scenario, I'm guessing my "reference" volume on the reciever would thus be -2.5db, rather than 0db. Any better solutions than the one I'm using? Hope this is as clear as mud!
  16. I just recently started experimenting with JRiver doing all the audio decoding for movies instead of using bit stream. This will open up the possibilities for using convolution filters/room corrections. My reciever can't do any room corrections/convolution filters and doesn't allow me to set the speaker distance for induvidual codecs, unlike the speaker size and level settings, which I can set for induvidual formats. So I cannot bypass the reciever's dsp in total for some A/B testing. Does anyone have any experience with using DSP equalizer or convolution filters in JRiver. My firts experiment will be to find out if I can make the center speaker less localized or virtual lift it to the same height as my L+R speakers. It is sitting lower and I am able to pick it up. I would like to have it blend in more with the L+R speakers. The other thing is, does anyone know about HDMI drivers that bypasses the Windows Audio Management. I am currently using a Nvidia GeForce WASAPI audio driver.
  17. I have a new house which has a home theatre system built in but it is about 5 / 6 years old. I am having issues with the remote control synching with the TV as sometimes it turns the TV off and not the Bose sound system etc. they go out of sync. The other major issue is that the bose audio enhancer which has HDMI inputs does not output a Google Chromecasts audio nor does my old TV. I am happy to buy a new Samsung (due to the fact I have another one, my current TV weights 80kgs, or any other recommendation welcome) Heres the equipment I currently have: 65" Panasonic TH-65PF11WK, Bose LifeStyle V30 / 20, Bose Personal Music Centre, Foxtel IQ 3, Google Chromecast Do I need to upgrade anything for the Bose System? Can I relay Chromecast audio through a new TV back to the Bose controller if the Bose controller doesn't support carrying the new audio? Attached some photos to hopefully help. Any suggestions appreciated, Thank you in advance!!
  18. Hi, I'm a newbie and setting up my first Home Theatre system. I have a 4.5m by 5.2m enclosed room. Own a projector and screen already. Budget of $2000 for surround sound system, amplifier and blu ray player, Apple TV 4 and would like to connect a mic for karaoke. Don't have an hard wiring for speakers so looking for wireless back speaker option. Any advice please. Thank you!
  19. I was wondering what ( if anything) people have been doing as a bit of showmanship to add to their home theatre experience. The things I am thinking about are customised trailers , old newsreels, cartoons etc. I noticed one or two sites where you can download these from but thought I'd throw it open to see what others have come up with, or may have been contemplating. Any ideas?
  20. I live in mandurah and im building a new house , im trying to find someone that really knows there stuff and can give me good honest advice and is willing to help . im not all that savy but im sick of the big stores bull , I dont want some kid thats just trying to make pocket money trying to bluff his way through stuff ( harvey norman , jbhifi etc ) can you please tell me who you trust in the perth area ?
  21. Howdy Folks, Long time lurker, first time poster! moving into a new place shortly as pictured below, this will be the living room space i will have my HT setup. dimensions 5.8m long x 3.7m wide with open plan to kitchen and dining area behind camera. ideally i would like to have a 7.1.4 setup(sub woofer to come) in the room, this may however not be ideal or be possible given where the furniture will be placed(same as pictured) i would like opinions on how you would set this room up for greatest audio experience. biggest concerns are a. placement of side and rear surround ( i would like a good rear sound stage if possible O_O) b. best options for Atmos ceiling speaker placement options( speakers to be purchased ) Equipment Yamaha RX-A3070 receiver PSB Image 5.0 setup (Towers/Centre/bookshelf) + 2 x PSB bookshelf and C40 centre. C8 Oled tv many thanks in advance Jim Hi All,
  22. Upload of photos of movie poster light boxes 50mm chassis, daylight, lightobox on (in previous garage)
  23. Upload of photos of movie poster light boxes 50mm chassis, daylight, lightobox on (in previous garage)
  24. Upload of photos of movie poster light boxes 50mm chassis, daylight, lightobox on (in previous garage)
  25. http://www.westcoasthifi.com.au/extreme3d-pack.php Hey guys just wondering if you were going to spend 10-15 k on a theatre would a package like this make you happy or is ther something you would definatly change for that price . I would prefer to lean the spending toward sound quality than picture but i'll take all theories and advice .
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