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  1. Hi Team, I'm not sure if this is in the right area, so feel free to put this topic elsewhere if appropriate. As per the subject, I've just picked up a pair of Leak 2060s that need some attention, but I'm a complete newbie who will have to learn how to wield a soldering iron, so all help is gratefully received. I've got a bunch of questions in no particular order: 1) Should I replace the caps (and anything else) on the crossover? If so, are there updates that will improve SQ? 2) The connections and inner cables are very fine - is it wise (or even possible) to update the cables? If so, what with? 3) Is the crossover attached to the rear panel by the same screws that (randomly) hold in the inductors? 4) There are some copper wires on the bass drivers, one of which has come off. I'll reattach, but what do they do? 5) Could and should I get new speaker connects? 6) Could and should I update the dampening to No Rez and/or install extra bracing? Once I get it sounding as it should, I'll look at the cosmetics. In anticipation, thanks a bunch. Dave
  2. Further information: "Splitting available - PM me". JBL 2427H Drivers New in box Consecutive Serial Numbers Pair Of Rare JBL 3160 CROSSOVER -- PASSIVE TWO-WAY. -- Confirmed Working JBL 2328 2" Horn Throat Adapter x 3 JBL 2311 2" Metal Horn Throat Adaptor 2 Pairs JBL 2327 2" Metal Horn Throat Adaptor Pair JBL Urei 5235 Two Way Pro Frequency Dividing Network Crossover 2 Channel 800 Hz x2 Tested Working JBL 2380A Horns PLEASE READ If you include any reference to pricing whatsoever in this section (excluding RRP), your ad will not be approved If you are advertising multiple items, you must post one bulk price only, or post seperate ads for each item If you don't include photographs of the actual item being sold, your ad will not be approved You understand that upon successful sale of your item it is expected you pay Seller's Fees. - if you have previously sold items and not made a contribution, your advertisement may not be approved.
  3. Restoring some 70s Kriesler speakers that have a tiny crossover smaller than a pack of cigarettes so I'm thinking of replacing the crossovers. Should I ........ 1) Replace with pre-assembled ones like Daytonaudio ( the 3 way with 500/4000 hz over points ) for about $99 each. OR 2) Buy some old speakers that are a bit knocked around and then strip out the crossovers ( as long as similar driver units ) So I suppose I'm asking ...... are new cheap crossovers better than some salvaged older crossovers from solid brands like Wharfdale etc ? Would really appreciate some fairly basic advice to suit the fairly basic ( yet fun ) rebuild...........
  4. Hi I am putting together a crossover for the following build: http://www.sbacoustics.com/index.php/sb-acoustics-kits/ara-kits2/ Each requires the following: R1 2.7ohm/10w Bennic 10W/2R7J C1 3.30uf/400V C2 10,00uF/400V C3 6.8uF/400V L1 0.1mH/0.7mm L2 .68mH/1.2mm Schematic: I believe all components are Jantzen however I cannot locate a .68mH/1.2mm (same as 17AWG) inductor in Australia. Speakerbug has a .68mH/18AWG. Jantzen catalogue lists the 17 AWG with a RDC of 330 Ohm whereas the 18AWG offered by speakerbug is 400 Ohm. Will the difference in RDC pose a problem?
  5. I have a pair of Kef Calinda’s that seems to really lack any noticeable bass. Calinda's are 2ways and have a 8" woofer (b200) a passive radiator (BD139) and a T27 tweeter. The sound is thin. I am going to attempt the crossover rebuild myself but obviously don’t want to muck it up as this will be my first dealing with crossovers. My questions are: In the photos I have seen online of Calinda crossovers mine look slightly different with two additional rectangular white things that I have no idea are. Anyone know what they are? How do I actually test the Caps for tolerance, do I have to remove them from the board? Can I use 4.7uf caps where the originals are 5.0uf 50V? My knowledge and skill level is pretty basic but I generally can work my way through most things just that electronics are my Achilles heal Thanks if anyone can help.
  6. Item: Behringer DCX2496 and DEQ2496 pair Location: Perth Price: $300.00 Item Condition: Good Reason for selling: Surplus Payment Method: Pickup - Cash, Paypal (add 3%), Bank Deposit Extra Info: I can post for $50 Australia wide. These were my crossover and equaliser at one time in my active Tannoy + Eminence setup. I have gone pack to passive for now. I never had a problem with either of them. When I dragged them out to photograph the DEQ came up with an error. I opened it up and re-seated the only two connectors able to do so and it fired up no problems. The tyranny of sitting idle I guess. So I have priced this for the one unit and you get a bonus one. There are a ton of books with them and you can see I have made some custom Tasmanian oak end pieces. The original rack mounting ears are in the plastic bag with the screws. Grab a bargain. Pictures:
  7. Not sure if this is the right place for this topic. Hey guys, I have recently got a fixation on big woofers and Compression driver (high sensitivity speakers) for my stereo need. These JBLs are half of what I wanted (just no CD Tweeter but still with waveguide, not sure of their sensitivity) but I had always wanted to try them out, and I am glad I did. These are really amazing speakers and can't believe how low and deep these speakers can go and with neutral tone. They just sound sublime. Anyway, I love these speakers, only gripe is that these are active speakers. I like and much prefer passive speakers as it allows me to try different amps, preamps and various room EQ (Room EQ is big for me). My current amp is not that great but it does come with amazing room EQ and sub out, it just integrates my speakers with sub so much better. Unfortunately, it does not have any preouts for speakers to use it with active speakers. What I am thinking is, may be I can make these active speakers into passive speakers by removing the back plate amp and adding a new passive crossover. This way I can have these amazing speakers with good room EQ and sub integration. All though, there is no need for adding a sub with these speakers as they go quite low as is but room EQ is something I want. So, these leads me to asking, is there anyone who can help me build couple of crossovers for these speakers? Is it a right approach? What I have been able to find so far is that the cross over is specified as "1800Hz 4th order acoustic Linkwitz-Riley".
  8. Hey guys, I have a newbie question: I have just purchased a Kef KC62 subwoofer. My amp is a NAD C368, where you can set a low pass filter at 150hz (fixed, I can't set any other value) The crossover dial on the subwoofer goes from 40-140hz. Where should I set it to get the best result? Shouldn't the crossover on the sub be set where the crossover on the amp is set as well? Thanks A LOT in advance!
  9. Further information: Great opportunity for some enthusiast who wants to drive a 2 way speaker with different amps. The unit is single ended as I have a single ended system. The unit is in great condition and there are no visible scratches. Makes a humongous SQ difference over a digital crossover like the Behringer DCX2496. The unit is ultra silent and comes with a normal power chord too. Comes in the original carton and is well packed to travel interstate if needed. Additional crossover boards can be ordered direct from Marchand for different crossover points as these are fixed on cards (as suggested to an enquiry that came through). Please PM me for any more details or queries. Photos: Advertisements without photos of the actual item will not be approved.
  10. I've got 4 of these Accusound DL895 floorstanders, a decent speaker if not a standout one and far better than the model which replaced it (by all accounts at least). They aren't selling so I've decided to turn them into a bit of a project by pulling down and replacing all the internal wiring, and maybe upgrading the capacitors in the crossover, on two of them and leaving the other two standard. There don't appear to be any resistors in the crossovers so that simplifies things a bit. I might just paint the insides of the cabinet with some bitumen too, after reading a few posts in this section and performing a few "knock" tests on the speakers in question I think that might just help. Once I'm done I'll run the original and improved versions side by side and see what I can hear, sounds like a good bit of fun. That wire is thin! In fact decent interconnects (and by that I mean Redgum $25 ICs) have more copper in them than this internal speaker wiring. The inductors seem fairly solid, no plans to touch them. Anyone got any suggestions as to what brand and type caps I should replace these standard ones with? I'm not looking for the best there is, just good quality caps.
  11. Item: Behringer DCX2496 Digital Crossover Location: Melbourne Price: $200 + shipping Item Condition: Used - Excellent Condition Reason for selling: Not using Payment Method: Paypal, Bank Deposit, Pickup - Cash Extra Info: Includes manual, original box Pictures: On request Purchased new in 2007. More info: http://www.behringer...ts/DCX2496.aspx
  12. *Please Read Disclaimer at end before posting* Hi all I’m pretty excited with what landed on my desk today; 2 x 1 inch tweeters and 2 x 5" woofers. These are OEM from discontinued products, most likely manufactured by Tymphany/Vifa, in turn specifications such as TS and FR are unavailable; which partly explains my purchase. I have assembled speaker kits before but thought it would be fun to measure some drivers myself in order to produce a 2-way bookshelf system from scratch. Driver data as provided by seller: Tweeter Tweeter: 25mm Soft Dome, 40 Watts – 120 Watts, 8 Ohm Nominal, 25.5 Hz – 20 KHz, Diameter: 94 mm, Cutout Size: 70mm Woofer Data 50 Watts RMS 100W peak, 4 Ohm, 88 dB, 54Hz, 1" Voice Coil, Poly doped, treated paper cone. Double magnet. Dimensions: 148mm frame, Cut out size: 120mm Having trawled Google images I'm pretty confident these came paired in a bookshelf with the following specs: Crossover Point 1.9kHz, Nominally 6 ohms, Bass reflex rear vented, Dimensions 295mm high x 175mm wide x 240mm deep, Volume 7 litres internal. With that said my plan is to approach from a clean slate and not replicate existing designs. I have never measured TS or FR or designed a crossover so I’m hoping you knowledgeable folk can jump in and assist. I am unable to find a good reference explaining how to measure drivers and implement in a system, however my understanding of the process is: (1) Measure TS parameters of woofer, ARTA: http://zobsky.blogspot.co.uk/2008/01/simple-loudspeaker-measurement-jig-for.html REW: http://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-diy-speakers-subs/1340740-lilmikea-s-diy-impedance-measurement-jig.html However this article raises issues with TS data and enclosure design. http://www.troelsgravesen.dk/ports.htm (2) Design and build enclosure from TS parameters (3) Perform frequency response testing of drivers mounted in enclosure (I think I need to obtain the impedance response of the drivers as well) (4) Create crossover from data (5) Enjoy (If you have a relevant link please post it – links above are indicative of how I will approach that aspect) Two software suites come to mind when looking into the above: REW http://www.roomeqwizard.com/ ... REW manual: http://www.roomeqwizard.com/help/help_en-GB/html/index.html ARTA http://www.artalabs.hr/ There are others such as SpeakerWorkshop, SoundEasy etc however they are not free and do not offer lite versions. With that said, I believe most suites use the same algorithms for calculating TS, and REW is apparently quite powerful for FR analysis(?). My aim is to update the first few posts with milestones and references to the relevant posts while the entire thread will show chronological order and discussion. Feel free to jump in and assist :-) Cheers Jonesy #Disclaimer - I will not post the OEM brand details and would ask respondents follow suit. They are a great company that I have purchased from before and I think its fantastic end of line stock is released onto the market and not made landfill; however they may not like their brand name popping up in a DIY thread from Google searches. I would also encourage those that wish to build a speaker kit perhaps look at Loud Speaker Kit (LSK). Their bang for buck drivers are most likely a better option and their kits are well designed#
  13. Hi there, I've come into ownership of two speakers with mismatching crossovers (one looks home-made) and I want to make new ones, based on the crossover that seems to be correct. Not sure how this situation actually developed but anyway, here we are The circuit for the crossover is below and I'm curious about the wiring of the capacitors in the tweeter/mid circuit. Basically, I don't see why the tweeter is connected through the big 68uF cap and then the 4.7uF cap. On my calculation, the value of the two capacitors in series with the tweeter give an effective value of 4.39uF, which must be close to the range of tolerance for the 4.7uF cap by itself. So what's the point of this? I think I get the basic theory here but I'm not sure about the practice (good or bad!) that's standard so I may be missing something obvious. Would there be any harm (or indeed, sound quality advantage) in separating the mid and tweeter circuits do you think? Sincere thanks in advance for your thoughts.
  14. The Background Story: I bought a set of peavey PA speakers cheap secondhand that had been in storage for a couple of years. Equipped with 15" Scorpion driver and two horns. They work fine and are in good nick. The Problems: - Pushing on the cones there is a slight scratching noise, should I worry enough to pull the magnet off and clean the 'gap', as Peavey states? - The enclosures, whilst well built from heavy ply, contain no dampening material at all and are plain rectangular boxes. Just wondering if dampening the box would help SQ and maybe bass response. - The dual horns are piercing, overpowering the rest of the mix, is there a simple way to tame this without constant EQing. I am pretty sure there is no Xover in the speakers... (Can upload pics in a couple of days) Any help is appreciated. Cheers
  15. I've purchased a pair of the Jantzen Toroidal (C-coil) inductors for a crossover upgrade, but not sure how the P-core and Air-core inductors around it should be physically oriented. I believe that a general rule of thumb in crossover design is to keep the inductors well apart if possible &/or orient adjacent inductors at 90 degrees to minimize the possibiltiy of them interacting. Applying different orientations when all the inductors are Air core &/or P-core is easy enough as those are all wound in a similar manner, but I'm not sure how to apply this principle to the toroid. I can't find any guidance on the Jantzen website, so hoping someone here understands the relative field patterns, and can suggest which of the options in the attached pic are correct, or can point me to some educational material.
  16. Hi, I'm using software to model a couple of speaker designs that I'm planning to build in the new year, and I'm finding it both interesting and baffling that the modelling software seems to inevitably model a bump in the power response in the midrange of all my 2.5 way designs. This bump seems to be about 2db higher in level than the summed on-axis response. My first thought was that there is some non-linear phase interaction going on between either the two woofers or between the bass-woofer and the tweeter, as this is just below the point at which these two sources interact. However, when I model the response from countless off-axis positions (+90 to -90 degrees on both axes), there is simply no bump, and indeed (as you'd expect from any conventional crossover) there's a significant dip in this range as the listener moves upward along the vertical plain. Is this a mistake of my design software or is there an obvious explanation for this that I'm missing? Cheers, Andreas
  17. Hey there thanks for any advise.... So ive just got a jvc kw-r920bt head unit, jvc 6"x9" 3 way rear speakers and factory 6 1/2" (im assuming 2 way) front speakers atm. So my question is, the head unit comes with a build in cross over that u can select 2 way or 3 way aswell as the other crossover settings, im not sure if i use 2 way or 3 way for the crossover type. If i use the 3 way type crossover....will that work to seprerate my rear speakers frequencies and if so what happens to the front 2 way speakers? Or do i use 2 way crossover type? Im kinda confused
  18. Wasnt sure what exact section to put this, but its a kind of DIY/Refurb. I bought a pair of B&O speakers off gumtree that looked in good condition and were cheap. I asked to test them to confirm they were working but the guy said he was "in the middle of something" and could not hook them up anywhere to test. It was a long drive to get them, my wife is learning to drive so it was some good hours learning for her and she was willing, and they were cheap compared to prices on ebay so i took the gamble anyway. Got them home and one sounded real nice: the other was missing something: wires to tweeter broken off. So i soldered the wire back on but still nothing. There was nothing to loose so i took the dome+coil off and found the burnt out/disconnected wire going to the coil and re-soldered it. after a few attempts i got ohmage! I also found one of the woofers was original but looks like the rubber surround was replaced, and the other was a Response woofer from Jaycar: They sound pretty good to my ears now, although the Response speaker doesnt sound quite the same in tone as the original, but is pretty close. Here is a pick of the back of the original "Arista" (not a speaker name I'm familiar with): So next for these speakers, i will see if i can find another original woofer, and try to restore them to original condition, I have read on a few forums to possibly replace the electrolytic cap on the crossover. Im wondering what that will achieve, as they sound ok to me. I know caps loose there properties over time, bu in regards to sound will it mean the high end filtering of them will be higher? lower? or just more broken up/disorted?
  19. Hi All I have a pair of Accuphase F-25 active cross-overs with the intention of making a five way system. I need one more frequency module and some frequency boards - 35Hz, 100Hz and 5KHz to complete the job. I am willing to buy another complete F-25 if the price is good so I can obtain the modules. Many thanks, Steve (angst46)
  20. Item: Klipsch Mods Price Range: best bang for buck Item Condition: New or Used Extra info: I have early 90's La Scalas that are totally stock with AL-3 crossovers. I was just seeing if anyone has some upgrades they NLR that might take these to the next level.
  21. Hi all, There are endless forums on miniDSP products and as such I'm hoping to save a few hours reading. I am thinking about integrating my SVS SB13 Ultra into my 2 channel set up and if I do i was considering giving my amp and speakers an easier time by filtering lower frequencies. All I want is to put a xover between my DAC and integrated (not interested in doing room correction with miniDSP. I am considering room correction with either acourate > HQplayer > microrendu/ SOtM) So either the 2x4 or 2x4HD is what I am looking at but open to other considerations being models or other brands/solutions. The sub has a lot of DSP processing too so I don't need miniDSP to handle any of that. My question is.... is adding this going to be detrimental to sound quality by the introduction of noise or anything else audible that will outweigh the gains of the amp and speakers having an easier time? Are there other solutions or crossover devices I could use instead of miniDSP? Maybe Behringer? I know there is DEQX but it is a bit of overkill if I am happy with my pre, DAC and streaming. Any help would be greatly appreciated Dan
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