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I had a pair of Jaycar 5" woofer\mids hanging about for years, unused and decided to build a simple 2-way using the 1" silk dome tweeter also from Jaycar. I wanted add external Xover and have the speakers bi-wired all the way from the amp to the drivers. A friend, very good with woodwork built the 15ltr boxes to my specs. I added vertical bracing to all sides and lined the inside with bitumanised heavy Al foil (flashing). Dacron was added around the bracing then one additional layer added throughout the box. Not overly damped. I added flashing to the back of the driver and the basket to dampen rear reflection. The rear port is quite small but works extremely well starting at 100hz and taking these small boxes down to 40hz. Nothing after 40hz though. The Xover nearly cost more than the speakers but is simple and X's over at 3,200Hz based on a linkwitz-riley calc. I tried other calcs. but they sounded awful. The external Xover is packed with dacron in an ABS enclosure and all binding post are gold plated brass. bi-wiring extend from the amp to driver and the two only share a common at the amp. I used split pair solid core Cat5 from amp, through Xover and inside speakers. One wire type, one configuration right through. These cheap boxes sound better my $6.5K 45kg Osborn towers. To improve the bottom end I added stereo sub-woofers powered by electronic Xover (60hz) and 50W Class D amp. See other post. Since these images have been taken removable metal grills held with rare earth magnets have been added. The finish is built-up with a combination of wet and dry rollers and is very thick, soft and heavily stippled. It is acoustically quite dead unlike a wood veneer or piano finish which reflects and radiates.

Hi, I have build a x-over overview from an actual x-over and have a few questions about the design and which components it is build out of. I have been able to identify most of the parts thanks to prints on the actual parts. The green capacitor is a smooth film type, and the red capacitors are a rough film type. The yellow brick type capacitors carry the MKT marking. Is this filter a parallel - series kind of type? What kind of order filter is this? At the start of the Tweeter signal path there is a resistor R1, and I have read about using resistors for Tweeter padding, but there is no second resistor. Does inductor L4 function as a variable resistor? Why are there 2 Capacitors C5, C6 in the tweeter signal path? Is this to create a steeper cut off slope? I assume that inductor L1 function as a HF cut off. Why are there 3 capacitors C1, C2, C3 in parallel before inductor L1 ? Why are the 2 more inductors L2, L3 after inductor L1 Is capacitor C4 and Inductor L2 a correction network? If I want to "upgrade" this x-over which parts would I be looking at? (My guess work would be R1, C3,C5, C6,L1?)

Hi, I have started taking measurement to find out my room problems (other topic) but ended up with these graphs. REW, -20dBU 85dB SPL at listen position. Reading these graphs, my subwoofers (Paradigm UltraCube 12, -3dB 19Hz DIN) have a rather steeper fall off than my main speakers (Martin Logan Montis -3dB 29Hz). Cross over settings for the sub is 80Hz in PrePro and speaker setting is large which bypasses this setting for L and R Could this potential be due to the DSP that is used for the LF 10" driver? And what should I think about my subwoofers. There is plenty of gain left to pump them off, but that won't change the roll off. The other things is, when I set my speaker settings to small in the PrePro and start crossing over (L and) R to the subs (A+B) the LF output drops, compared to their individual measurements. Could this be due to timing or phase differences? My plan is to use the subwoofers only for LFE in Movies, and use the Martin Logan's as full range in Music