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  1. im a proud owner of a outlaw audio 976 4k receiver for about 3 1/2 years now an while its great an served me well ,im always on the lookout for a budget upgrade should my unit ever die an with outlaw no-longer making newer surround receivers finding an newer up to date 7plus ch receiver for less then 2k with near to or sames fine tuning audio features is hard , but a little over a year ao i saw AT-300 - 16 CHANNEL PRE-PRO for 1.5k that price an the near same specs look very good plus the extra eq's are very tempting ,an my cousin is wanting a 7.2 4k balanced receiver but no interest in atmos an has a 1k max budget which is 50$ more then i originally paid for the outlaw which he's been wanting so my question is this would selling my 976 for 1k to him an saving up another 500$ for the AT-300 - 16 CHANNEL PRE-PRO at 1.5k be worth the sell an save what would help me decide is this , has anyone had or know someone who as had both units the OUTLAW AUDIO 976 & the AT-300 - 16 CHANNEL PRE-PRO an got a side by side comparison on features an functions , performance an ther overall experience ie the differences in each of the functions an features of the units an which one has more or less by comparison aside from the obvious ie the extra ch's an the atmos i hope this is not to steep a request but iv bought most the av gear iv ever owned based on first hand experiences of said gear threw friends an family with ther gear my current gear is this media source - NVIDIA SHIELD tv - TCL - 55R635 receiver - OUTLAW AUDIO 976 4k balanced cables - custom right angle xlr from colubercables amps - 3 x crown xli 800 (for ,center ,sides ,backs ) 2 x crown xls 1502 (for fronts an diy subs) speakers - BIC Acoustech PL-89 II (fronts) Klipsch Reference Series RB-81 II (center) no sides at the moment in upgrade process just came from all polk audio monitor II 70s, 50s & 40s plan for Monoprice Encore B6 as sides an backs an two diy 15in sonotube subs av / tv stand - a diy custom 28in h by 22in d by 72in w
  2. iv settled on the design for my new sub build an im going to start buying the parts so if i go with a Dayton Audio UM15-22 15" Ultimax DVC Subwoofer 2 ohms Per Coil wired to 4ohm an placed in a 18in by 48in sonotube with one 21in by 5.220in port tuned to 17hz an powered by a Crown XLS 1502 525W 2-channel Power Amplifier in Bridged 4ohm for 1550watt with gain knob to full would i get an audibly chuff id be using the 10band parametric eq in my outlaw audio 976 4 receiver the sub ch has a hi an lo shelf an 8 adjustable bands all 10 can be tweaked for 2ohz to 20khz +3 to -20db an the 8 bands q goes from .5 to 14 for some fine tuning an id use REW WIZARD to do it drawing is a rough concept cant really show more till all the parts are bought an arrive the sonotubes are a set back as the shipping cost changed with the company i was going to go with tho they did mention they would when i first look at deco-cretesupply.com 2 x 18in by 60in ran 173.50$ with fedex ground the cheapest at 210$ so 383.5 total not bad i thought for to cabs at less then 200$ each for 8.3ft3 but now is 430.35 damn so that why i decided on 48in by 18in an why i didnt get when less i did think i would go up that much that fast at save up to get the amp an driver first was my goal tho i did manage to get the amp while on sale an its on the way right not so im reassessing wither or not to either go with another company that sell by the foot or to go with smaller cabs the original design called for an 8.8ft3 with a 21in by 5in port tuned at 17 or even two at 37in long but that would very costly for the ports so one v1 v2 with one port this seems like the happy trade off for size to cost as two 18in by 48in will run me 138.80$ with 122.71$ in shipping for a total of 261.51$ with the desired sub do you'll that this would be a good compromise with the one port per cab these are my end caps to be custom cut by sendcutsend.com theres two different quotes one is for layered hardwood mdf at .125in that would be layered up to 1in for the port side an to 1.5in for driver side per cab the other quote is for 1in thick for both sides with a mix of .125in an .5in for the port side an two .5in layers for the driver im good with the cost as iv had work done by them before but my question is do you'll think the both endcaps for these cabs with these drivers need to be thicker then 1in to 1.5in or is 1in on both ends enough either way thers some steel outer rods that are planned to be used as like a vice grip to the outer frame that also serve as the legs for the cab your thoughts on all this
  3. Hi Gents I've been looking around for quite a while for a speaker that would allow me to keep my beloved Audio Innovations 500 valve amp that I bought to celebrate my 21st birthday 23 years ago. It still works very well but it's less than an ideal match for my original Acoustic Energy AE1's now i have bigger room. I'd like a bit more bass for movies, and the ability to play some organ music or a realy sonorous chello piece once in a while would put a smile on mine and my Dads face! I've been working as a full time draughtsmen for about 6 years and really miss the fun of making stuff. Satifying a number of needs in one go the little big horn kit fits the bill, Not cheap but the reviews on the originals are pretty awesome so the deposits been paid! I've built plenty of precision stuff so no real worries getting the project constructed. Being in kit form I can choose and order the parts as the money arrives. So the main challenges are: Getting it to sound at least as good as an original pair. Getting it to look as good. I've had a long e-mail discussion with Andrew and lots of advice has been received - thanks. The critical parts appear to be the size of the chamber behind the main driver - any speaker requiring more space than the Lowther DX3' and 4's supplied in the original could stuff things up nicely. I'm inclined to go for broke on the horn driver and buy some Lowthers. The next part is the integration of the subwoofer output with the horn. Andrew has reccomended the Oaudio 300watt bash amp as being good value. I've priced it up and it's only fractionally dearer than Dayton Audio 250watt plate. The Oaudio includes full phase adjustment 0-180degrees rahter than just a phase reversal switch. Sub drivers is a big question - i'd like to go low enough to put a bit of guts into Bach's Toccata and Fugue (or some Rammstein) but i definitely want to stay away from the boyracer stuff - music not thump please. The cabinet for the drivers works out at about 84 litres. The original Carfrae design had a peerless driver and a port in each base unit on one side. This enabled the base units to be swapped under the horns from left to right fireing into the centre or out to the sides of a room. I quite like the idea of a passive radiator design but wonder how the directionality of the bass would be affected with a driver one side and the radiator back to back on the other side would be. Your thoughts and advice on this and cone type for music would be appreciated - paper, cloth, polypropylene, aluminium? I've never had deep bass from a pair of speakers - so i've never had the chance to gain much experience. Last but not least how to finish MDF given the size of these things spraying them in or out of doors is out of the question. I'm thinking about someone witn a spray booth. There's a few horror stories about DIY MDF cabinets cracking up around the seams long after painting due to weather, home heating watever. It would be relatively easy to set up a router and put a tiny bevel on the edge of each section of MDF before i start gluing things together this might lessen the visual impact of any cracking whilst putting a subtle set of stripes on the horn. Your thoughts please. Ta Steve
  4. Hi all. I am looking at maybe making a passive preamp/attenuator, and was wondering where the best place to get a good quality cabinet to house it all is? I intend to surround it in a nice timber at some stage, so it's more about the general quality. I imagine I'll eventually put a front and sides in timber, possibly with cutouts around the various controls. I've seen many on eBay and so on, but no nothing about what exactly to look for once I know the side I need. Cheers, Mat
  5. this is my noob friendly guide for other noods based on my own experiences an advice from others so before you buy to much gear an or start to build an to get the most out of any invest ther are some things to know an consider also to get better advice an suggestions from forums an other ht builders your desired gear an gear specs ie speaker specs , amp specs , an desired spl target your sound & viewing pref ie are you a basshead , bright (high treble) , or do you prefer neutral flat or more warm ie midrange boost an do you watch movies an music evenly or do you lean more towards one then the other an how big do you want the screen an what rez 1080 or 4k 60 or 120hz as a projector an projector screen might better suit at a certain price point an as a legalistic stand point mainly in regards to weight an cost to scale whats your budget for all gear , mods an diy acoustic treatments ie media source , receiver , amps , speakers an subs (best to go with diy sonotube subs) what the rooms overall dims an the ht dim ie h x w x l now a few things to suggest provide lots of room pix to better assess ht layout options if you dont already have id say get a decent sub 400$ 4 core laptop (id prefer a amd ver wiped an loaded with linux / no license needed) an load it with REW WIZARD an pair it with a minidsp umik-1 an a 20ft to 30 hdmi cable as all this will allow you to do multi ch acoustic calibration its worth the invest as it will help get the most out of your ht an address peaks , dips , an null in the highs , mids , an lows especially for the sub 2. beginning rule of thumb is bare minimum is to have 30% of ht room wall space covered in acoustic treatmentsacoustic panels ( 2in min 4in with open back better 6in great ) an basstraps ( 4in good 6in plus much better) id do a multi ch pre calibration an see how good the room response really is then with the room treatments 3. start with two subs an place 2nd sub in parallel in the room one on either side of the room at the mid point this is the default best starting point for subs the adjust from ther as needed , this layout an placement (more details an advice at Avrant - avgadgets - aperionaudio) a 2nd sub will it give a more even spl an fq response also able to run each an half output but still get a db gain bump but also it helps with peaks , dips an null that you may not even know you have with just using 1 4. do your own acoustic panels an bass traps diy it wall save cash an if you want posters an still have room for acoustic treatment make them as one when you make ther covers have any image made with this here my design concept for light weight 4in x 24in x 48in panel made from .5in mdf pieces you can get the part made an cut from .5in mdf from sendcutsend.com the reason why to use pieces is to cut the weight from using solid panels of any wood these are my eps blueprint files if your interested that you can have sendcutsend make for you unless you want to try by hand yourself . heres some links to my wiring gear an decent compact sub concept build ill post when then build but i use the wiring gear wiring gear an banana plug alts https://www.ferrulesdirect.com/ decent compact sub an ports           sonotube-foot compact concept build thin pvc ports thick pvc port
  6. Hi, I've only been researching hifi for a year, with the intention of sourcing a new system, and it seems the industry is generally split in two in the 5-15k range: - vendors with 4+ ways and they're generally <8", think paradigm / MA etc etc - DIY with >10" woofers with !horns! I don't quite understand the split. For context my favourite speaker I heard at the hifi show was the jbl S4700, yes, a vendor version of the latter. I do like large woofers. So if you wouldn't mind indulging my curiosity: - why the split? - why not buy the commercial versions? Too much fun playing with less finicky boxes than the smaller cousins and deqx?
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