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I wasn't actually planning on a boxing day sale, but when the power went out for 3 hours it seemed like the best thing to do was take pics and box up amps. So, there you have it, one small Boxing Day Sale. Item: Xindak A08 Class D Integrated Amp. Location: Bowen, Qld. Price: $650 (including postage within Australia) Item Condition: Excellent, barely run in. Reason for selling: The A08 is a typical Class D amp and has that "crystal clear and glarey" sound, which is not for me. Payment Method: Pickup - Cash, Paypal, COD. Extra Info: This unit is very well built and solid, it has a built in DAC (twin TDA1543 chips) and plenty of power but really needs to be teamed with speakers that will cut down on that digital glare (IMO of course). Also, when I sealed the box up I forgot to include a power cord, if you need one let me know and I'll open the boxes back up. Comes double boxed with remote and manual (not that the manual tells you much, I had to take the top panel off just to find out what the DAC chips were). Pictures:

Hi All I have just purchased an intel NUC as a HTPC for our spare plasma TV and hence created a requirement for half decent sound system to go with it. I have a DIY bookshelf speaker left over that I am hoping to utilize. ( Details below ) I plan to buy a bluetooth or USB soundcard then combine both stereo channels to mono Then the plan is to use an active crossover and bi-amp the speaker. Now I have no experience with Class D / Class T amps, my sound requirements are modest, I really just want to beat the bose/logitech bluetooth speakers out there. So just as long as the Class D isn't regrettable I'm be happy with that, the same with a switchmode PSU. Class A/B with linear supply would also be fine. Low standby power would be nice. My aim is to keep cost low and size small. So $200ish for PSU and dual mono AMP. I can pirate parts (PSU) from an Altronics kit (K5173) that I have built previously. It has a 300VA (45V + 45V) toroidal and the PSU rectifies to give +- 70V DC. Any advice would be appreciated. I'm happy to do my own research but a push in the right direction would be very helpful Thanks John ============================================================================== Woofer rated @ 60W RMS & Tweeter @ 100W RMS http://www.htguide.com/forum/showthread.php?13154-RS180-Modula-MT-you-asked-for-it-you-got-it!

Put up your hand up if you have seen any 100W SS amp with a choked power supply. This amp started as a low power Class A SS amp and therefore the 10mH 5A Hammond choke. I removed the power amp section and replaced it with a 100W Sure Electronics Class D amp module. There are also 2 X 10,000uf caps in the PS. Not quite the Sexy build of my other "Ds" but practical and a great use of a part of an amp which has not been used for many years. The PS is rated 100W and the amp uses a 100W Class D module which should drive 40W+ into 8ohms. So far the bass is excellent and the stereo imaging really huge which is what you would expect from a choked PS.

Here is my 4th Class D amp in the last few months based on the hifimediy Eastern Audio Technologies T4 amp module. It is claimed to produce 180W pc into 8ohms at extremely low levels of THD. And is very Tripath. Where this module shines above the rest is crow-bar speaker protection built on the PCB, no fan (apart from me) high grade audiophile components (M-Caps, big chokes etc) and the glorious ability to accept DC or AC. Yes a full rectification network on board. For me the way to squeeze the best out of the "Ds" is to feed them a big robust DC PS. I used an Altronics 500VA 30 + 30 toroid and capable of a 16A delivery. Through a rec bridge into a 15,000uf cap. Yes this time just one. But it is snubbed with a 10uf 100V poly which itself is snubbed by a 0.1uf 630V poly. As usual with all my amps and most preamps I install a RFI\EMI power filter and choke the power cord. A Jaycar 2U 19" Black Stipple finish rack mount enclosure and the faint amber LED dress the device. Where I cut lose on this build is the super heavy, insulated speaker binding posts at the back. I wanted this to be an Audiophile strength build so the heavier binding posts. And to cement that desire I called this one "Audiophile" . Only a few hours on the new baby so a way to go but good stereo imaging, great sound stage and excellent transparency. Good so far hoping to get even better in the next few months.

Here is my 4th Class D amp in the last few months based on the hifimediy Eastern Audio Technologies T4 amp module. It is claimed to produce 180W pc into 8ohms at extremely low levels of THD. And is very Tripath. Where this module shines above the rest is crow-bar speaker protection built on the PCB, no fan (apart from me) high grade audiophile components (M-Caps, big chokes etc) and the glorious ability to accept DC or AC. Yes a full rectification network on board. For me the way to squeeze the best out of the "Ds" is to feed them a big robust DC PS. I used an Altronics 500VA 30 + 30 toroid and capable of a 16A delivery. Through a rec bridge into a 15,000uf cap. Yes this time just one. But it is snubbed with a 10uf 100V poly which itself is snubbed by a 0.1uf 630V poly. As usual with all my amps and most preamps I install a RFI\EMI power filter and choke the power cord. A Jaycar 2U 19" Black Stipple finish rack mount enclosure and the faint amber LED dress the device. Where I cut lose on this build is the super heavy, insulated speaker binding posts at the back. I wanted this to be an Audiophile strength build so the heavier binding posts. And to cement that desire I called this one "Audiophile" . Only a few hours on the new baby so a way to go but good stereo imaging, great sound stage and excellent transparency. Good so far hoping to get even better in the next few months.

Was just looking at the Hypex website and noticed they're now selling their own NC400 kit form mono blocks. Rough estimate once posted and slugged with duties and tax I would guess these to be around $2500 landed. I've been using these same amps for over a year now and think they're fantastic value. Drives my Magnepan .7's with ease and some little power hungry Kefs I have too. Would be a perfect match for the LS50 me thinks. https://www.hypexshop.com/DetailServlet?detailID=7616

I wanted to head this "pure Class D" because of so many Class A amps claiming they are genuine Class A amps. "Robusto" because this amps should have a big capacity. The Sure Class D module is marketed as 2 X 500W amp. But this is into 3omhs at better than %10 distortion. So let's be realistic. I think this module will produce about 300W into 4ohms. I'm going to feed the module about 48V. To generate a total of 600w (both channels driven) I'll have to supply about 12A! That is a lot of current. In fact the PS I'm building will deliver 16A at 48V. It's one thing to have two massive trannies capable of delivering this sort of current but the rest of your wiring has to be up to the task also. I have 4 X 10,000uf\63V Nippon caps. These, a 35A rec.bridge and two huge trannies should deliver sufficient current and voltage to power this monster. Most of the enclosure is complete. While I'm waiting for the module to arrive I will continue working the enclosure and PS. I don't need 500W or even 100W into 8 ohms but I did find with the 100W version I built (see other post) when you turn these amps right up they distort real quick. I want to be able to turn up this amp with distortion figures staying under %1. Here are some images of the PS so far. Lots more to do. The 40,000uf of caps are wired with 2 X 1mm pure silver wire. According to one chart this should handle 40A. I only need it to handle no more than 16A. I added brass washers under the wire for a better grip. The two trannies are rated 300W each. Easy to see this amp can deliver no more than 600W total (trannies in parallel\series). Still waiting 500W Sure module.

I have just ordered a $32 100W Class D stereo power module to build into a power amp. I usually build SE and UL tube power amps so a big change. Just wondering if others have built a Class D amp and their comments.