Jump to content

DT999

Full Member
  • Content Count

    42
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

29 Excellent

About DT999

  • Rank
    10+ Post Club

Profile Fields

  • Region
    Australia
  • Location
    Victoria
  • First Name
    Derek

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Interesting; I had a DL-110 on my Rega P3 which I initially fed into a Rega Elex-R phono stage, but I swapped that out for a Ortofon 2M Bronze. For me the 2M Bronze edged out the DL-110, it was as smooth but had better detail retrieval and separation but for the price difference it should. However I have since had my DL-110 re-tipped by Chris with a ML stylus and now there is very little to chose between them in terms of tracking and detail retrieval, the re-tipped the DL-110 is a lovely cartridge.
  2. That I can't help you with; cartridges are something of a personal choice. I chose the 2M Bronze after I heard it on a P3 at an audio shop in Melbourne when I was auditioning amplifiers and liked it so I got one. It is the main cart I have fitted to my Rega, but I also have a few others I switch in and out on this and my other TT. If you are unsure, then Rega cartridges will be easier to fit and set up. They are shorter than many others so the height of tonearm on Rega turntables is correct for them, and they have 3 screw mounting which sets overhang so they are more plug and play
  3. I would suggest the 2mm, as I said, 4mm might cause the counterweight to foul on the lid when you raise the arm by that much. You can put an underslung weight on or get a heavier tungsten weight which has a smaller diameter to stop it hitting the lid, but that is more cost. There may be benefits to changing the counterweight, but that is a different issue. Try the 2mm and see how you go, you can always add more later if you need, and don't forget you can also change the platter mat. Something like the Origin Live upgrade platter mat is only 1mm thick, compared to 2 - 3mm of the
  4. I have a 2M bronze on my P3, I have used a 3mm spacer by Isokinetic. It has a cut out making it easy to install without having to fully remove the tonearm. Just undo the 3 screws, loosen the cable clamp underneath and raise the tonearm up a little, slip spacer under and put screws back, re tighten cable clamp. Just don't overtighten the screws when you put them back, slightly nip them up just over finger tight. Link to Spacer https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/184042537037 Works well, but watch out if you put larger spacers in as counterweight may catch on lid, there is not much c
  5. Hi Simon, That was my experience as well after trying the Reflex on the loaner program compared to a Rega Fono. Nothing was wrong with the Rega, but after 2 weeks living with the Slee stage, swapping back to the Rega you realise what was missing and just how good the Slee stage is. Cheers Derek
  6. Indeed. I have found people on this forum very helpful, accommodating and not in any way condescending for those with less knowledge, unlike some other forums.
  7. Dave firstly thanks very much for taking the time to extensively answer all my questions and for going as far as looking up the Antimode manuals to assist, very much appreciated. What I have taken away from the information provided by everyone so far is that it is difficult but not impossible add some form of DSP to my set up. Your final solution might work the best as it would appear to address the mains as well as subs, as alluded to by Andy, but as a complete beginner in this area I like the idea of a simple 'plug and play' type solution that the DSPeaker 8033 seems
  8. Snoop thanks very much for your suggestion, I have looked into this more and along with the information from Dave the Anti-Mode 8033 certainly looks to be viable.
  9. The SVS sb 1000 does not have DSP ( the new sb 1000 pro does,) so no my subs do not have built in DSP. I have been trying to set the cross overs, phase and gain all by ear, and while I have improved things with minor adjustments getting the balance right is troublesome. I wondered if DSP might help, but it looks to be difficult to integrate in my system.
  10. Thanks for the link. I have had a quick look at the Antimode 2.0 but I might be missing something. To use with an integrated amp they suggest using power amp in, but as indicated above I don’t have this on my amp. The other option shown is to connect all sources directly to the Antimode and then connect the Antimode to the line in on integrated amp. The only problem I note with this is there is only one set of RCA inputs on the Antimode, but I have 3 sources to connect. Am I missing something or is there a way to connect 3 sources using RCA?
  11. Thanks Andy, unfortunately my integrated does not have a power amp in, only line level in. Does this effectively mean I can not use any form of DSP in my system as it stands?
  12. This question is posed as a follow up to my post about the use of subwoofers in a 2 channel system; firstly thank you to everyone who contributed to that discussion. Following on from my subwoofer question, I ended up getting two SVS SB-1000 subwoofers, as 2 subs seemed to be recommended to give the best in room response. One of the topics that came up was the use of DSP to help integrate the subs into the music system. Now I confess I had not heard of DSP, I know nothing about DSP, and I am somewhat ignorant when it comes to understanding computers, software, apps and the like an
  13. I have Graham Slee phono stages and really like them and a benefit is you can do a home trial with no obligation to buy and see how they are in your system/room However GS does not do a MM/MC combined phono; more info here https://www.hifisystemcomponents.com/phono-preamps/ One component he does is a MC step up with variable loading - The Elevator. You could use one with your MM phone stage, and I believe there is one for sale in the Classifieds at the moment at a pretty good price.
×
×
  • Create New...