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About niterida

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  1. If you want to save money and get a (potentially) better system you should liook into Pro PA speakers like the Behringer B215XL. See this post : https://www.avsforum.com/threads/you-have-a-10-000-budget-for-a-7-2-4-home-theater-audio-system-how-would-you-spend-it.3208669/post-60912646 where he states they are better than KEF Q750
  2. If I did my room again the one thing I would change is to make it wider to accommodate the side surrounds being further away from the outside seats. I would also start with my screen size, place my L&R inside the screen edges for scope screen or outside the edges for 16:9, place my seating at 60deg from L&R and then size the room accordingly to get the other speakers at the correct locations.
  3. They are not bang for the buck - they are the best option - especially considering you can easily get all your speakers to be identical. I have listened to a dedicated demo room with a $20,000+ Krix Wall Of Sound setup and my room sounded every bit as good, if not better. read this post : https://www.avsforum.com/threads/you-have-a-10-000-budget-for-a-7-2-4-home-theater-audio-system-how-would-you-spend-it.3208669/post-60912646 One of their main benefits is the compression driver tweeter - see this post also : https://www.avsforum.com/threads/you-have-a-10-000-budge
  4. Since it is a dedicated theatre and aesthetics aren't important (?) you could (should) look at using Pro PA speakers. Cheap as chips and are the best option for home theatre. I will post more about them later as I am about to head out to work.
  5. 0.7 room width will put them outside his seats and away from walls according to his plans. I said "will possibly" which is not absolute. I also said "below 80hz won't be corrected" which is an absolute but is also pretty much true since speakers (not subs) won't be adding much (if anything) below 80hz. You are correct about there being no place in any room that is not affected by at least one mode. I should have said the 1/3 distance needs the least amount of correction (and actually that isn't true since I believe it is actually at 38% room length that needs t
  6. An AVR rated to 120wpc is usually closer to 60 or 70w with all channels being used and then you are at the mercy of distortion from the AVR at those levels. Usually a power amp rated to 120wpc is 120 (and sometimes more) per channel with all channels driven and it won't be distorting as much either. But do you need 120w ? It is only 3db louder than 60w for starters and with 11 or more speakers in a smallish room you would be surprised how little power you need. A lot depends on your speaker sensitivity, distance from speakers, number of speakers and where they are mounted. A spe
  7. Whatever the logo means and whether the car is electric, hybrid, wankel or otto doesn't really matter. I would buy it just to look at it
  8. I guess if the logos look different then it doesn't matter if they have the same letter. I must admit my first thought when I read the post was why R ? If it is because of the rotary then the should use the rotor shape and give it a unique (possibly made-up) name. Maybe RT for Reauleax Triangle - the shape of the rotor - maybe Chrysler have that covered though ? Or back to RE - Rotary Engine - like the 70s cars ?
  9. Like I said in your other thread, mine is 6.25x4.3x2.7 and it is just me in there most times and it is way too big - was a waste of space and money Having my time again I would build it wider than long and have the back open - that way you don't have any room modes making nulls and peaks and you can get your surrounds further away from the outside seats. and the smaller the room is the smaller you can have the screen for the same (or similar) impact. Having said all that I do love sitting 3.3m away from a 3.8m wide screen !!
  10. Mazda have trademarked the logo not the letter - how can you trademark a letter anyway - isn't the alphabet already in the public domain ?
  11. I have a sepmeyer room at 6.27x4.32x2.7 and it sounds good. but after building it I read that room dimensions actually make nearly zero difference. Its all about the room modes creating standing waves at certain frequencies but these are most noticeable below 80-100hz. There are 3 options to correct this if it happens - multiple subwoofers, seating position and room treatment. So don't sweat it and build the room size that fits your use and budget. Just don't make it square or cube, or with length wholly divisible by width or height. Given my time again I would have built the th
  12. Maybe but you still want Left speakers to be on your left - or at least as far to the left as possible if they can't to your left.
  13. Yes but you will possibly get the biggest nulls below 80hz which will be very noticeable and won't be corrected by multiple speakers. Multiple subs will be able to correct it, but putting your seating position where it doesn't need to be corrected is always going to be better option IMO.
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