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About southern_tango

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  1. As far as I know Thorens uses a synchronous motor runing from mains ,for AU should be 240 V 50 Hz so no power supply there only a cap and resistor to kick start it . If you want to go the LP12 way and control speed and suppress any noise coming from power you will have to replace the motor ,most of them are DC, guess I seen a couple done around the net... Just my 2 cents as there are member with much more knowledge that could help you...
  2. I know I am on the cheap side of this forum...but last week had my lucky date... unlucky no poster or inners sleeve on any Kiss but Van Haen is better than the copy I had.
  3. Great article,thanks for sharing it....have a ADC ...maybe will give the old cart a chance...
  4. I think I have one of those plinths around ,the top board is suspended by springs ( the one I have were too song) but it was fir a Grace 840 I guess.
  5. So,been months since the last update on the Thorens ,so after making the second board ,posted a pic in a oage on Fb and comented about the 840 not fiting properly on it, a gentleman from UK asked if I wanted to swap the 840 for his 707 ,months oassed I got the arm a couple of months ago ( he still waiting on mine as it is miss located in post) Installed the 707 and it looked too much forward so today...armbord number 3 ...the ones before ,wrong measurements. Pluss added better feet ( at least visually)
  6. Hello everyone,hope you are doing well in this covid times. I have a Grace 707 tonearm but it's missing the antiskate counter weight. Tried to made my own but honestly the results been ugly af.. Thanks.
  7. I am in the same search as you. You could use also 840's ones they are similar or try to fabricate one ,they are about 2.4 grams as I remember and the hole for the post is 0.9 mm in diameter.
  8. You are right , usually double insulated in small apliances is achieved by two means , electrical parts are encased on insulated material (usually plastic chassis) and in some case earthed . JH / Silcrom TTs are very simple ,they use a synchronous motor that runs from the mains ( 240 v. 50 Hz) with a lamp type switch ,option of neon indicator, change in speed is achieved by a double pulley again with the option of a seesaw type of lever. I am not sure where I saw it but there was cases of user feeling a tingling sensation as the only insulation are the rubber spacers (again not 100%
  9. I have some dound deadening material of that kind ( leftovers from my ex job) was thinking about...
  10. And it's done... Solid timber armboard ( guess the timber get the price) Corrected all measurements now it clears the base , unluckily the cover doesn't fit so for the moment it is going to seat inside a cabinet ( I have a cat)
  11. May give this a go..looking for something saw this piece of bamboo I forgot that I have ,was intended to be a plinth for a project so it is the same size as the Akai TT on top ( first one I bought about 5/6 years ago) A bit thicker at 35 mm should work fine...
  12. So....I did as Ian F but with a little twist letting the wires "float" from the p clip , everything looked ok until I put the base and suspension locked up again...worked a bit on the springs pressure ,nothing. Until I put the tt on it's back one more time...and discovered the problem...It was ME !! when installed the tonearm did a jig to get the 222 mm center to center spindle to axis and trying to compensate for the longer counterweight...well tonearm connector hits the edge of the perforation in the base ???
  13. More questions appealing to your experience, should I replace the 240 V. wires to two pole and earth connecting the earth yo the chassis ? ( screw next to the motor) would it be beneficial to replace the caoacitors and resustor for newer ones ? ( on a circuit board with all the connections soldered)
  14. Looks like this uses that same principle ,good idea the person that did the base count that in the design.
  15. Great idea...and a good example of KISS ( keep it simple ,stupid) will try it ?
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