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  1. I had a feeling that might be the case. I'm using a four seater Harvey Norman theatre lounge. You'll see from my image what I mean re a riser lifting my seats up too high compared to the speakers/screen etc in my room. Wish there was a way to avoid that. I did have a quick look at the Crowson actuators that sit under one or more of the chair bases, but then I saw the price! ($2,000+ just for two actuators and then you need an amp to power it and a DSP to tune/integrate it) So the HoverEZE is a substantial step up from something like four Aura bass shakers and a Dayton amp? I could fit them under my lounge pretty comfortably and they're much cheaper. I like the idea of the tactile response being silent so I'm not punishing my neighbours or family with two Rythmik F18s all the time!
  2. @almikel - Thanks very much for the advice Mike. Just to clarify a few things. From what I can see of my post ARC correction, my biggest area to tame is 20 - 300Hz (and predominantly 50-200Hz). The curves for all of my speakers are generally pretty flat from 300 - 5k Hz. I've got a PDF of my calibrated results earlier in the thread. My above acoustic treatment design, which incorporates absorbers and diffusers selectively throughout the room, is based on the 'Home Theater Gurus' tutorial on youtube where they suggest the best 'bang for your buck' is absorbers at the first reflection points on the side walls and then a combo of absorbers and diffusers in the rear of the room to improve spacial characteristics in the room. For the DIY absorbers, I was looking to use the 100mm thick Higgins polyester, noting that it's unlikely to absorb anything below 200Hz. The Sound Acoustics diffusers that I'm considering for the rear inside corners apparently absorb down to 150Hz so could tame some of my apparent problem area. Then I'm looking at a deep bass trap in my study area with a DIY absorber (probably using 4-5 deep sheets of the Higgins polyester to create an absorber of 400-500mm deep with at least a 1.5m air gap behind. I could also add a 300mm deep trap in the back right corner with a 300mm air gap behind down the track, but I don't want to go too crazy on the acoustic treatment since I'm not confident in what it will achieve. I've read enough to make myself dangerous but not enough to have any real idea what I'm doing! Does my approach sound reasonable? The Tontine Acoustisorb 3 batts look interesting but upon further googling it looks like Tontine was acquired and is now sold as Polymax. Hard to keep track of the companies and what is reputable! Seeing that you're in Brisbane, dare I ask where you source your materials? I've read a little on the BAD panels but certainly wouldn't turn down more info if you're happy to share it. I've considered adding a diffusion scatter plate onto the front of my DIY absorbers to turn them into hybrid absorber/diffusers but I haven't found anywhere that makes plates (binary sequence pattern) similar to GIK Acoustics. https://www.gikacoustics.com/product-category/alpha-series/
  3. Are you aware of any shallow depth subs with a high XMAX? The reason I’m asking is that I could probably accommodate a small riser but anything above about 20cm would likely have me needing to raise my screen, 7 x floorstanding speakers etc which gets a bit more complicated. I like the simplicity of the HoverBOSS. It’s just a shame it’s not as effective.
  4. With those diffusers, I was only planning on two inside each rear corner. Two of them is only $140 (plus $20 postage) and will cover approx 60 x 120cm which I’m guessing will be sufficient. The DIY absorbers (60 x 150cm) I’m planning should be about $80 each and then I’d have to buy and bend the MDF into it with a groove inside each side of the pine frame. So only a slight price difference and the Sound Acoustics ones have measurements to back up the performance.
  5. Any thoughts on my proposed design/approach? The big question I have is how to measure the effectiveness of the treatment. My frequency response (post Anthem ARC correction) is pretty good so what will I be looking for to know my money has been invested well? RT60 time in REW or anything else? Any experience with these diffusers (measurements show it’s supposed to work down to 150Hz) ? This is what I’m considering for my rear wall. https://soundacoustics.com.au/product/acoustic-foam-panels/hybrid-absorber-diffuser-ha600-75/ This is what I’m leaning towards for my DIY absorbers - 580mm (W) x 1100mm (H) x 100mm (thick): https://higginsinsulation.com.au/custom-polyester/polyester-acoustic-insulation-batts/
  6. Good advice. I’m certainly trying to look beyond the specs and reviews but this is a difficult market. For most of the subs on my shortlist I have no opportunity to see or hear them in a demo room, let alone my own space. Reviews can be bought so take them with a grain of salt. There are obvious sources to assess performance like data-bass.com but that only gets you so far in trying to undrstand, speed, articulation, clarity, chest slam potential etc. How do you go about assessing what makes a desirable sub? I’ve considered a hover boss setup a couple of times Ken, but the time and complexity to build it, setup and dial it in has dissuaded me. I’ve always gone back to using that money to add a second sub. To my understanding, the hover boss setups will only deliver a rumble/shake effect rather than real chest slam and ‘hairs on your arms standing up’ pressurisation? I’m more keen on the latter. How much would you say your setup cost for the plywood, 3x car subs, amps and DSP control? How do you control yours?
  7. That’s good feedback thanks. So easy to overlook some of the local options when there is so little info about them and real world feedback. I’d love to demo a current gen VAF sub but am nowhere near SA. To clarify, I certainly don’t want reference level. I’m just looking for a sub(s) with the best specs and performance for the dollar. Why spend say $3k on a sub that falls off at 20Hz when another for the same price (and articulate performance) can perform to 10Hz? Can I ask which model RELs you have? The HT1508 is right up there on my list but I can’t find any locally to demo.
  8. AUD$7300 + shipping is too rich for my blood. Looks very impressive though. Carbon Series 24" woofer.. The Harbottle C24 L1 version does 94dB @ 10 Hz. In comparison, the Rythmik F18 does 91dB @ 10Hz. Makes the Rythmik look like a bargain at less than half the price delivered!
  9. Can I ask what size driver this is running and what brand amp?
  10. This is what I've come up with as my initial room treatment approach. This is based on the Home Theatre Gurus tutorial on youtube available here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zLxVEHjWrt4&t=1386s I'm keen to hear any thoughts before I start investigating making/ordering some panels. For the absorber and diffuser panels - I'm looking at approx 4in thick that are 1.5m (H) x 0.6m (W). For the moveable bass traps in my home office area - I'm looking at two panels on caster feet that will generally fill the void and are approx 430mm thick (I'd love to go thinner if there's a dense product that will better absorb the bass energy).
  11. I see Spotlight has 30-50% off lots of stock. For those that have done DIY acoustic panels, did you just go for standard black spandex fabric? Does light coloured insulation show through? Something like these ($9-15 per m2): https://www.spotlightstores.com/sold-by-the-metre/plain-220-gsm-cotton-spandex-fabric/BP80488949-black https://www.spotlightstores.com/sold-by-the-metre/plain-stretch-spandex-velour-fabric/BP80496482-black https://www.spotlightstores.com/sold-by-the-metre/plain-spandex-bubble-crepe-fabric/BP80505000-black Also, what insulation is recommended most and where to source? I've looked at the Bob Gold's Absorption Coefficients but it seems many of the recommended brands are USA specific. A cheap, thin product with as close to a 1.0 coefficient at 125Hz is what I think I'm after. The Owens Corning 4" Fire Batt with black on one side looks perfect. How would something like that perform as a bass trap and how thick would it need to be? https://www.bobgolds.com/AbsorptionCoefficients.htm
  12. Does anyone have experience with the GHG “Marty” DIY subs? I’m curious to know the likely costs for the MDF kit, driver, amp and wiring combo here in Oz.
  13. Did you ever track down further details on this? E.g. is there an AU stockist of GSG. I read Red Spade Audio may stock the kits?
  14. I'm surprised you're able to achieve that with no room treatment. I wonder what some bass traps would do for your space?
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